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97 LX wont stay running

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Old 01-13-2010, 11:40 PM   #31
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alright so it tried pulling the codes again with the method you gave me. no go... what happens iswhen the jumper wire is in the connector and you turn the key to the on position all the lights come on, the CEL stays on and does not flash however the SRS light flashes once and stays on and then nothing else happens. does this mean anything?

This means that you don't have any CEL codes stored in the ECU. Jumping the service connector is also used to retrieve trouble codes from the SRS system. You also don't have any SRS codes, though this is irrelevant to your problem.

i dont have any starter fluid but we kept priming the fuel pump for a couple minutes and the car started for about 30-45 seconds, we thought we had it then it died again and would only stay started for a second or two after that.guys got any other idea's? tomorrow im cleaning out the IACV to see if that helps a bit.

The IACV is a highly unlikely cause of your problem. I recommend to check the mechanical timing to see whether the timing belt skipped a tooth. To do this, remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover and then use a breaker bar and socket to turn the crank pulley only COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the cam pulley is perfectly positioned at TDC1. Now look down at the crank pulley to see whether it too is positioned perfectly at TDC1. If not, the timing belt slipped.

The diagram below shows the cam and crank both positioned at TDC1.



Last edited by RonJ; 01-13-2010 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:41 PM   #32
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it has good spark
Was spark bright white rather than weak orange or dark blue?
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:42 PM   #33
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thanks man got it!!! and if that all lines up and i can keep it runnin on starter fluid?? sorry about all the question and thank you so so much for being so patient with me id pay you if i could haha
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:43 PM   #34
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^^^
are you sure the fuel pump actually primes when key is turned to ON? if so then fuel filter is the next check. followed by fuel rail/ injectors. personally having dealt with similiar problems it sounds like a fuel pump. UNSAFE way to test would be loosen a fuel line and turn the key to on if it sprays fuel evrywhere then you have a good pump if not problem solved
ive done this i just position an open fuel line in a snapple bottle and only turn it over for a second.... obviously with the bottle mounted in a stable way... in fact.. lol i used to take gas out o fmy car for my lawn mower doing this..
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:44 PM   #35
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^^^
are you sure the fuel pump actually primes when key is turned to ON? if so then fuel filter is the next check. followed by fuel rail/ injectors. personally having dealt with similiar problems it sounds like a fuel pump. UNSAFE way to test would be loosen a fuel line and turn the key to on if it sprays fuel evrywhere then you have a good pump if not problem solved
You can hear when the pump turns on. Best way to check and hear is to remove the back seat. Turn the car on the ACC and hear if the pump purges ON. If it does do that its faulty.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:48 PM   #36
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You can hear when the pump turns on. Best way to check and hear is to remove the back seat. Turn the car on the ACC and hear if the pump purges ON. If it does do that its faulty.
the thing that is BETTER about checking REAL fuel presence under the hood is that it will TELL you yes the pump IS running and fuel IS reaching the motor.. you have just eliminated a TON of BS work checking lines looking for potential kinks or cracks losses in fuel.. you KNOW gas is getting to the motor...
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:50 PM   #37
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thanks man got it!!! and if that all lines up and i can keep it runnin on starter fluid??
If the mechanical timing is dead on, then the timing belt did not slip.

If you can keep the engine running with starting fluid, then you have a fuel delivery problem. You start by thinking about the fuel not making it to the rail or a problem with the injectors. It would also be wise to measure the fuel pressure.

If you can't keep the engine running with starting fluid and the mechanical timing is good, then compression test the cylinders.

Do all four spark plugs have bright white spark?
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:51 PM   #38
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the thing that is BETTER about checking REAL fuel presence under the hood is that it will TELL you yes the pump IS running and fuel IS reaching the motor.. you have just eliminated a TON of BS work checking lines looking for potential kinks or cracks losses in fuel.. you KNOW gas is getting to the motor...
i did not see your other post. Thats another way to check it. Eventually if the pump is bad he is going to have to remove the rear seat.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:52 PM   #39
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okay so i just threw a new fuel filter on it and the pump is only a year old. the pump purges for 2 seconds before you try and start the car. i have a second pump that is still good so i could try that but the pump in the car now primes. if the injectors or fuel rail where clogged the car wouldnt have ran for 45 seconds then just die when it is about to sit at 800 rpm which is the normal idle would it?
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:52 PM   #40
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the rear seat is already removed i can hear it priming for the two seconds with the seat on anyways
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:55 PM   #41
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ive done this i just position an open fuel line in a snapple bottle and only turn it over for a second.... obviously with the bottle mounted in a stable way... in fact.. lol i used to take gas out o fmy car for my lawn mower doing this..
yea i would recommend the fuel return line at the end of the fuel rail it will show that the fuel rail and injectors is getting the fuel
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:57 PM   #42
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it better be the fuel pump that would make me sooo happy!!! sad as that sounds it would keep me from running in circles. if its flowing through good im gonna have to start all over with the electrical system and man i hate doin that!!!
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:58 PM   #43
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OP: Please stop making multiple different threads on the same topic. All three threads on this same topic have now been merged into this single thread.

Last edited by RonJ; 01-14-2010 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:06 PM   #44
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sorry man wont hapen again!! so i forgot my starter fluid at home so i couldnt try spraying that into the throttle body to keep it running but i checked the fuel line to the fuel rail and its definitely getting gas and the fuel pump is pumping. i took the distributor cap off and theres a lot of blue corrosion on the points and a bunch of blank and blue chunks inside there is also corrosion on the rotor. i checked for spark as well and had orange spark checked number 4 cylinder and seemed like it was sparking at the right time. however today was pretty humid and gross for being winter and the car didnt start up at all. it sounded like it wanted too but no go. also there were a couple cranks were it sounded like there was no compression kinda its hard to explain. im gonna clean off the points and the rotor and see how that works. could the injectors be bad? or no power going to them? the plugs were kinda dry though
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:47 PM   #45
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...i took the distributor cap off and theres a lot of blue corrosion on the points and a bunch of blank and blue chunks inside there is also corrosion on the rotor. i checked for spark as well and had orange spark checked number 4 cylinder and seemed like it was sparking at the right time.
This is likely the problem. Focus on replacing all damaged components inside the distributor, and you may be good to go. The orange spark additionally suggests that the coil in the distributor may have been damaged as well.
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