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OFFICIAL DIY: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Install - GSR

Engine Tech / Drivetrain DIY How-To's




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Old 02-26-2007, 01:00 PM   #1
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Default OFFICIAL DIY: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Install - GSR

DIY: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Install – 94-01 Integra GSR

Applicable Years: 92-00 Honda Civic, 90-01 Acura Integra

Difficulty: 2 out of 5

Estimated Time: 3hrs

Product Features:
• Single staged intake manifold design
• 64mm plenum opening
• Factory throttle body may be reused
• Utilizes factory sensors
• Larger plenum and runners to optimize horsepower
• Smoother finish to optimize air flow
• Modified #4 intake entry
• Significant mid to high-range power gains

Purchase a Skunk2 Intake Manifold
http://www.tunersports.com/products/...ifold_114.html

Product Photos:







The Install Process:

Disconnect your negative battery terminal and drain coolant.


Relieve fuel pressure by loosening the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter and remove the fuel line at the rail. Then disconnect the lines from the fuel pressure regulator and remove the fuel injector clips.







Remove your intake from the throttle body. Then disconnect all hoses and sensors leading to the intake manifold and throttle body including your throttle cable bracket.








Unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head. Remove the intake manifold, throttle body, and fuel rail as one unit. Inspect intake manifold gasket. Replace as needed. Make sure to note all disconnected hoses and sensors.






Unbolt the throttle body from the intake manifold; inspect the throttle body gasket for damage and replace as needed. Unscrew the throttle body studs from the flange and reinstall in the new manifold (make sure that when lining up the throttle body gasket, the U-shaped portion faces top-left-corner of flange).





Remove fuel rail assembly and install in the new manifold, including the fuel rail studs. Inspect o-rings and replace as needed.





From the factory intake manifold, unbolt and remove the idle air control valve and intake air temperature valve to install into the new manifold.




Bolt on manifold-throttle body-fuel rail assembly back onto cylinder head, making sure that the manifold gasket is positioned properly and securely. Connect the evaporative emissions purge control solenoid valve. Due the new intake manifold design, there is no mounting location for the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. It is recommended the unit be zip-tied to a secure location. For 94-95 vehicles, one hose end will plug into the charcoal canister and the other hose end will plug into the small vacuum fitting located on the rear of the new intake manifold. For 96-01 vehicles, please refer to the note below.


The FPR host will be re-plugged into the small vacuum fitting located on the front of the new intake manifold.


Bolt on and connect the fuel injector harness holder and hoses. Connect TPS, map sensor, and fuel line. Tighten the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter.


Connect batter and replace coolant.


Any unused fittings can be plugged by using vacuum caps



I ended up eventually getting a Type R throttle body bracket, throttle cable, and LS throttle pulley to make the install a bit cleaner looking.

Note:
1996-2001 vehicles are OBD II and equipped with a different-type EVAP purge control solenoid compared to that of pre-1996 vehicles.

1996-2001 EVAP: The EVAP purge control solenoid valve will not have a mounting point due to the new design of the manifold. It is recommended thtat the unit be zip-tied to a secure location. In order to connect the EVAP purge control solenoid valve, a T-fitting must be used to re-fit the PCV hose and EVAP hose onto the larger vacuum fitting located on the manifold plenum body.

1996-2001 PCV: The upper and lower Type-R PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) hoses will be used to reconnect the breather chamber to the PCV valve, to the T-fitting opposite of the EVAP hose.

1996-2001 Linkage: As an option, the Type-R throttle body cable and mounting bracket can be used.

Anatomy of an Intake Manifold – Skunk2 vs. Clone
Click here to view the PDF file.

Skunk2 vs. Stock Intake Manifold Photos:






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Last edited by joe7987; 01-17-2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 11:22 PM   #2
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very nice write up justin. i just bought a gsr and it has the older skunk2 mani on it and it came with the stock one also. how does the new one perform? i was thinking about putting the stock back on for the BAR process but I might just keep it on there and see how it goes.
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Old 02-26-2007, 11:25 PM   #3
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awesome write up!!!!!!
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:49 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve98ex
very nice write up justin. i just bought a gsr and it has the older skunk2 mani on it and it came with the stock one also. how does the new one perform? i was thinking about putting the stock back on for the BAR process but I might just keep it on there and see how it goes.
I would personally keep the skunk2 instead of going back to the dual stage stock one. I could definately feel it pull harder in the high rpms on the butt dyno.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:57 AM   #5
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OMG! I wish I had that third arm to take photos while I work

Great writeup

Looks like a fun bolt on. How long did take?
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Old 02-27-2007, 10:07 AM   #6
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It took a few hours. The part that took the longest was remove the old intake manifold gasket.
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Old 02-27-2007, 11:06 AM   #7
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Jay Jay:

This is a great write up, im sure many people agree with me.
Could you possibly tell us the gains you noticed, how much, and specifically during what RPM range ( as this is till a HUGE debate for many people)

Also, to relieve fuel pressure, unscrew the gas cap prior to disconnecting the FPR and the fuel line, this will cause not as much fuel spraying everywhere.

Thanks
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Old 02-27-2007, 11:14 AM   #8
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nice write up.... thanks for taking the time to do that.
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Old 02-27-2007, 11:50 AM   #9
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very nice write up man...! Couldnt be any better.
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:08 PM   #10
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nice job....i hate installing/removing IM's with the motor in the car, the nuts are so hard to get to
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoBoost
Jay Jay:

This is a great write up, im sure many people agree with me.
Could you possibly tell us the gains you noticed, how much, and specifically during what RPM range ( as this is till a HUGE debate for many people)

Also, to relieve fuel pressure, unscrew the gas cap prior to disconnecting the FPR and the fuel line, this will cause not as much fuel spraying everywhere.

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Jay
I could definately feel it pull harder in the high rpms on the butt dyno.
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:22 AM   #12
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hey jayjay, i was wondering what kind of intake you went with. i've been looking at the aem hybrid intakes, there's one for the b18c1 with stock gsr manifold and a different one for jdm single stage manifold. so basically is the throttle body in close to the same spot for both manifolds?
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve98ex
hey jayjay, i was wondering what kind of intake you went with. i've been looking at the aem hybrid intakes, there's one for the b18c1 with stock gsr manifold and a different one for jdm single stage manifold. so basically is the throttle body in close to the same spot for both manifolds?
I have intercooler piping You would need the intake manifold for the c5 since the skunk2 is pretty much the same design. You can see in my comparison photos that the gsr throttle body sits a good distance lower than the skunk2.
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Old 03-04-2007, 05:09 PM   #14
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intercooler piping eh? you need to catch us up on your car :) thanks for the help, can you still get good prices on parts even though tunersports is no more?
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:33 PM   #15
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i'll be coming back with something in a bit
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