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Ball Joint / Wheel Bearing Removal

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Old 04-14-2008, 04:34 PM   #1
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Question Ball Joint / Wheel Bearing Removal

Hey - Somewhat new to the Honda Circuit. I just took possession of a 2004 Civic LX Sedan, 5sp 70K miles, Pure Stock!. Its a nice Magnesium Metallic and runs like a champ! Its time to do some maintenance on the car and need some input. I noticed it needs a new Driver Side Ball Joint, due to a ripped boot and a clunking noise i'm beginning to get. Here is my question:

1. When replacing the Ball Joint, is it better to purchase a new Knuckle w/ the Ball Joint already Pressed in, or...

2. Buy just the Ball Joint and press out the old and press in the new?

3. If i remove the knuckle completely, is the Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly a "bolt in" unit or is it Pressed in?

4. What is the Proceedure for Removing the Wheel Bearing Assembly / Ball Joint?

I'd appreciate any of your input on any How-To's and if you know of any links that would be of help, that would be great. Thanks for your time.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:26 PM   #2
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Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required


Hub dis/assembly tool 07GAF-SE00100
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200
Attachment 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Driver 07749-0010000
Support base 07965-SD90100
Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.








Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel.








Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A).
Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force.








Raise the stake (A), and remove the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut.








Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A).
Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt 2 turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.








Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector.








Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E).








Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin in the range of 180 degrees or below from the inside of the vehicle. Insert the lock pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle.
Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special too.








Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts.
Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while pulling the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off.








Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear.








Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press.








Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C).








Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press.
Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly.








Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. Place the wheel bearing on the knuckle with the pack seal side facing (metal color) toward the inside. Be careful not to damage the sleeve of the pack seal.








Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque.








Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press.
Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle.
Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values.
Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing.
Use a new spindle nut on reassembly.
Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc.
Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel.
Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:23 AM   #3
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[QUOTE=LatinEM2;2254933]Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement

Damn! you better give this man some props!
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:24 AM   #4
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Not to hijack this thread, but how much of a drop do you have latin, front and rear?

I read you post alot and hold high esteem of your knowledge.
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:12 AM   #5
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Damn Latin, do you work on Hondas for a living or are you just that good?
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simpsonbuck3436 View Post
Not to hijack this thread, but how much of a drop do you have latin, front and rear?

I read you post alot and hold high esteem of your knowledge.
Thanks man! I have Eibach Sportline springs with 1.4 in drop in the front and the back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tkdtim1226 View Post
Damn Latin, do you work on Hondas for a living or are you just that good?
Im just that good
I have access to alldata at my work so i can post pretty much anything on repair
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LatinEM2 View Post
Thanks man! I have Eibach Sportline springs with 1.4 in drop in the front and the back.

Im just that good
I have access to alldata at my work so i can post pretty much anything on repair
^i wish i had allldata.. but i dont wanna pay ;P
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:49 AM   #8
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Damn Latin this one is for you

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hecz View Post
aka, the guy that makes things happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bheims View Post
R2D2 > balls

doesnt get any gayer than the danglin balls, glad you went another route
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMIIspecED View Post
Damn Latin this one is for you


If you guys need anything off alldata just contact me
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:11 PM   #10
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quick question what grill do u have latin?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hecz View Post
aka, the guy that makes things happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bheims View Post
R2D2 > balls

doesnt get any gayer than the danglin balls, glad you went another route
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
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quick question what grill do u have latin?
Its a Type R style off ebay
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LatinEM2 View Post

If you guys need anything off alldata just contact me
hmm.. whats your logon and pw

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Old 04-15-2008, 05:31 PM   #13
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ok i was very wrong on 7thgenhonda thanks 4 the info
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FOR SALE : koni yellows for 04-05 em2, rears only, Great Price! PM FOR INFO


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hecz View Post
aka, the guy that makes things happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bheims View Post
R2D2 > balls

doesnt get any gayer than the danglin balls, glad you went another route
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toneekay View Post
hmm.. whats your logon and pw

I don't have one. I work for the public library and the website has access to it
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:36 PM   #15
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Latin i know this is completly irrelivant but do you by any chance have the color code for your car. i love that color
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