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Speedometer Not working

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Old 02-18-2010, 04:35 PM   #16
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When I do the test, do I need to have the wire unspliced for the ohm test too or can I just test the ohms at the VSS where I exposed the wire on the yellow/white wire?
Since you ran a new wire, I don't see a need now for the Ohm test. Did you carefully inspect the B2 terminals in the cluster and connector B? If so, do the voltage test.
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:43 PM   #17
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Houston, I think we found the problem. No Volts and no Ohms.

Since I had to drive the car, I removed the fresh wire. The tests were done with the factory wires. I didn't want to go any long distance with the wire going through the window.

For the Ohm test, I put the positive in the VSS and the negative in the harness. Nothing.

I already unspliced the wire back together for the Ohm test and the car key was turned to II.

For the DCV voltage, I put the positive in the harness and touched the negative to the frame where the gauge cluster screws into. I also touched just about anything I could find that was metal under the dash and no voltage.

I'm assuming that the VSS is bad and that I must go on the hunt for another one.

Unless I did the tests wrong. I don't use this very often and usually to test batteries.
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:49 PM   #18
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Houston, I think we found the problem. No Volts and no Ohms.

For the Ohm test, I put the positive in the VSS and the negative in the harness. Nothing.

Tell me exactly what each meter probe is touching for this test.

I already unspliced the wire back together for the Ohm test and the car key was turned to II.

The Ohm test does not require the key to be on.

For the DCV voltage, I put the positive in the harness and touched the negative to the frame where the gauge cluster screws into. I also touched just about anything I could find that was metal under the dash and no voltage.

What do mean by harness? You need to meter the cluster side not the wire harness side for voltage.

I'm assuming that the VSS is bad and that I must go on the hunt for another one.

If the VSS were bad, you'd almost surely have code 17.

Unless I did the tests wrong.

I think the tests may have be done incorrectly.
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:17 PM   #19
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For the Ohm test, I unplugged the harness from the VSS.
I put the red probe on the yellow/white wire prong.
I put the black probe on the yellow/white wire prong in the harness that is no longer connected to the VSS. I was touching the metal on both ends which should have completed the circuit. This is only the 2nd time I've measured for Ohms. The 1st time was yesterday. If my mechanic states that he got an Ohm reading each time he tested both VSS's, I'm certain that I must be performing the Ohm test incorrectly.

We have Voltage. I looked a little deeper and I don't believe that the cluster was mounted on a metal base that was attached to the frame. I plugged the harness back into the gauge cluster. I touched the red probe to the wire prong on the clip. I touched the black probe to the door hinge and I now have a reading of 7.5V. You said it should be around 5V. Is that a problem?
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:58 PM   #20
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For the Ohm test, I unplugged the harness from the VSS.
I put the red probe on the yellow/white wire prong.
I put the black probe on the yellow/white wire prong in the harness that is no longer connected to the VSS. I was touching the metal on both ends which should have completed the circuit. This is only the 2nd time I've measured for Ohms. The 1st time was yesterday. If my mechanic states that he got an Ohm reading each time he tested both VSS's, I'm certain that I must be performing the Ohm test incorrectly.

You did the continuity test incorrectly. You would unplug the VSS connector and cluster connector B. You would then touch one meter probe to terminal B2 in the cluster wire harness connector and the other probe to the Yel/Wht wire terminal in the VSS wire harness connector. But skip this test for now (see below).

We have Voltage. I looked a little deeper and I don't believe that the cluster was mounted on a metal base that was attached to the frame. I plugged the harness back into the gauge cluster. I touched the red probe to the wire prong on the clip. I touched the black probe to the door hinge and I now have a reading of 7.5V. You said it should be around 5V. Is that a problem?

Now reconnect cluster connector B and unplug the VSS connector. Turn the key to ON(II) and measure voltage at the Yel/Wht wire terminal of the VSS wire harness connector. Do you again measure 7.5V to body ground?
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:25 AM   #21
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With the VSS connector unplugged and cluster connector B connected to the gauge cluster, I also get a reading of 7.5V.

This morning, I'm going to the mechanic to get the windshield washer fluid resevoir reinstalled and to move the air filter from under the fender back to the engine compartment. I will ask him to show me how to do the Ohm test so that I know it is correct. I will reply with the results.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:30 AM   #22
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With the VSS connector unplugged and cluster connector B connected to the gauge cluster, I also get a reading of 7.5V.

This morning, I'm going to the mechanic to get the windshield washer fluid resevoir reinstalled and to move the air filter from under the fender back to the engine compartment. I will ask him to show me how to do the Ohm test so that I know it is correct. I will reply with the results.
The result of your voltage test tells you that continuity of the wire (Ohm test) is fine and also that the speedometer is producing proper voltage. If there is no CEL code 17, then the speedometer is almost surely bad and needs to be replaced.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:03 AM   #23
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OK. Going to start searching for gauge cluster number 3 today. When I find one, I will post the results of the install. Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:11 AM   #24
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Apparently, I just had bad luck with the 2nd cluster. Bought 1 just like it in Wisconsin and it works perfectly. Sure was a lot of troubleshooting for nothing. The 2nd cluster I bought was tester and they stated it worked. Going to return it today.

Ron, thanks for all your help and patience.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:07 PM   #25
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Sure was a lot of troubleshooting for nothing.
Learning to troubleshoot is always time well spent.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:21 PM   #26
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so, a bad cluster huh? dang.
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:35 AM   #27
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I have a similar problem, my speedo only works about half the time. On/off intermittently. I'll be driving and it will shoot to 0 for a few minutes and then pop on and off to the speed I'm at. NO CEL. Light does come on when key is turned.so the light does work. so I'll pull the cluster out and do some of the trouble shooting above. but if there is no CEL then it has to be the wires or speedo?
to replace the speedo,do you have to replace the entire Gauge cluster?
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:42 AM   #28
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Default Speedometer problem

I have a 1995 civic vx.

The speedometer always works during the first 5-10 minutes of driving, however when the engine warms up, the speedometer begins read incorrectly..

For example... Cruising at 65mph when engine is cold- all is normal.. 5-10 minutes later, speedometer will begin to drop to 40mph and stay within that range..

The guage will no longer read correctly until the next morning- again for about the first ten minutes of driving..

Once in a blue moon, the check engine light code 17 would come on after slowing down from high speed driving

What ive replaced:

ECU,

3 clusters , new speed sensor, replaced speed sensor harness twice, bypassed vss wires in the harness and ran new wires directly from vss to speedometer cluster- still problem exists.

I reinstalled the vss back to the orig harness and did continuity tests and dc voltage tests..

With multimeter. I connected one end to the yellow/blue wire of vss connector and the other end to the black/yellow wire of speedometer harness.. I get full continuity.. BUT i am also getting continuity on all the remaining pins of the sppedometer harness too! (is this normal?)

i then checked continuity from the yellow/white wire of the vss harness and the yellow/blue wire of the speedometer harness and get full continuity- i checked all the other pins on the speedometer harness and get no readings...

I then did a dc voltage test...

With ign on and mutimeter on dc10, speedometer harness connected, i grounded the multimeter and the positive end connected to the yellow/white wire of the vss plug, i get a voltage reading of about 7v..

I pulled the vss assembly out of the transmission and inspected the gear teeth of the vss housing and it looks good

i inspected the plastic gear in the transmission that is visible through the hole where the Vss mounts and i didnt feel any missing teeth..

I feel drag on the vss when i turn it, not much drag on the gear in the trans..

Last edited by gtstwincam; 03-08-2010 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Added info
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