timing belt (this part is established by your block. i.e. b18 or b16. it does not make a difference what head you have)
drive belts (i.e. alternator, a/c, power steering)
valve cover seal
you can also replace your water pump while you are in there. (saves a lot of headache down the road)
some people will tell you to saw your cover off. i dont recomend it. if you want to though there are many places who will just bore the hole so that you can acces your gears without putting the timing belt at risk from debrise.
if you get ambitious you can also take this oportunity to do a valve adjustment in witch case you will need a new head gasket as well. if you have over 75,000 miles you can deffinatly benafit from this. also a great opportunity to install cam gears.
all engine mounts are 14mm. all valve cover mounts are 10mm as well as t-belt cover screws. the drive belt tension bolts are 12mm but you can not use a socket on some of these (i had to sacrifice one to a set of vise grips cause even the socket rounded it.
1) remove the spark plugs and the valve cover from your motor
2) remove the driver side wheel to gain acces to the crank pully
3) at this point it helps to have an impact wrench, using a 19mm impact socket and your compressor @ 130psi spin the crank bolt free, it should come off relatively easily. if you dont have a compressor then be prepared to have two people and a long ass breaker bar.... also dont plan on it only taking two hours. after the bolt has been broken free put it back in and turn it clock wise untill the two timing marks on your cam gears line up, on oem cam gears you will also have an up arrow on each gear. reremove the bolt
4) losen the alternator, a/c, and power steering pumps. the alternator has a top slide bolt and a lower lock bolt, both need to be lose in order to have it move freely. the power steering has a top and bottom bolt that slide in position as well as a wing nut that holds tension on, all three of these need to be losened. I dont have a/c anymore, but when i did i think it was a bolt that just held tension on the idoler pully (might be wrong though)
5) you can now remove the belts from the crank pully as well as the crank pully itself.
note: do not loose the key that holds this pully from spinning.
6) now comes the fun part. remove the "dragon head" upper engine mount. at this point you can only remove the front bolt (in behind the power steering pump), the two upper nuts, and the two bolts that go into the block from below the dragon head. the mount will not come off yet.
7) now that the crank pully is off you have acces to the timing belt cover. remove the bolts from this.
note: this is a two peice cover, there are two 10mm bolts in the top half and four 10mm bolts in the bottom half. one of witch is recessed just below the upper engine mount. remove all of these before removing the cover.
8) now that the cover is off you can get the last bolt holding the engine mount on. it is just below the lower previous two. remove this but do not remove the mount yet. first note the routing off the timing belt. the tensioner pully must be losend to remove the belt, do so and slip off the belt, now that the belt is only hanging there remove the engine mount, now remove the old timing belt.
9) feed the new belt in place but do not place on path yet. first reinstall the engine mount. now place the new belt on its path (this may be difficult) but do not tension yet. first put the crank bolt back in (no crank pully required) and turn the belt three teeth clockwise. this ensures proper alignment of the belt. now tighten the tensioner (make sure the rear portion is resting on the stud) there should be about one inch of deflection on the longest run.
10) the hard parts over, now just put it back together, start with the rest of the engine mount, then the timing belt cover, make sure you have all 6 screws in place. now remount the crank pully (hope you kept that key) put the valve cover back in place, mount the new drive belts and tension them the opposite from the way you removed them.... your done.