- Transmission Fluid Flush
30,000km/20,000m for automatic, 40,000km/about 30,000m for standard (clutch fluid, prefferably Syncro Shift for hondas). When finding a shop that flushes your tranny (this applies to automatics) make sure they flush fluid through and not just drain and fill it. It leaves a lot a contaminated fluid left. Also find out if they use a varnish remover. Fluid can burn and coat the side of the tranny pan so it should be cleaned off to preserve its life.
- Brake Fluid Flush
Approx. every 730 days or sooner if contaminated
(you can use a syringe to extract a little bit of fluid and put it in a clear bottle to see if its dirty. This applies to all fluids. Also, you can buy PH strips to test it yourself, this applies to coolant as well)
- Coolant Flush
Every 730 days or sooner if contaminated or PH is off
Don't use additives in your coolant. It can cause deposits and coolant leaks and destory your water pump, kill gaskets, etc,. Use a 50/50 mix of coolant/water. If you change the coolant yourself, let the engine run a bit to let the fluid heat up and bubble to get rid of air pockets. Then you can top off the coolant and close up the system. GM claims their coolant lasts for 5 years. We've seen it turn to gel in and destroy and engine so beware.
Every 5 years or sooner. If you get it done at a shop, you might want to get it done along with a coolant flush as it will cost less depending on the shop.
- Power Steering Fluid Flush
Every 60,000km/40,000m or if contaminated. Honda recommends using only genuine HONDA fluid. Using regular fluid is ok as long as you are not mixing them together. Also, if you have a high output vehicle with a more sensitive steering components, you should probably just stay with honda ATF.
Every 5000km/3000m. The more often you do it, the better. It doesn;t hurt to do it sooner if you wish. Use a well known mainstream brand (penzoil/quaker state is a good example), unless you race and know what you are using. Some exotic oils have additives (solids such as teflon) that can clog filters and cake on your crankcase. If you are using a regular oil, stick with it and try not to switch to a synthetic as it can cause a decaying effect on internal seals depending on how high your milage is. Using a synthetic BLEND is ok.
- Fuel Injection Service
It's very hard to find a shop that does this properly. The only service i've seen that works properly and make a noticeable difference is the Enginuety services. If you are unsure, you might just try filling up at Chevron all the time and letting the Techron concentrate clean your system.
- PCV Valve
- Fuel Filter
Every 40,000km/30,000 miles or 5 years.
- Air Filter
Replace it when it's dirty! I'd recommend a K&N filter (unless you have an aftermarket intake) because they flow better and can be cleaned.
- Spark plugs
Every 40,000km/30,000m or if you have Platinum then double that. Inspect your plug often to make sure they are not over gapped or coated with oil. There's quite a science to spark plugs that I won't get into, but just by looking at them you can tell many things about someones engine.
- Ignition, Spark Plug, High Tension (what ever name you are use to calling them) Wires
Every 98,000km/65,000m. Use a good brand such as Bosch or NGK (Maganacore, Taylor, etc). Stay away from cheap brands such as Autolite. Along with wires, replace your Distributor cap and rotor.
- Oxygen Sensor
Test your 02 sensor switching rate every 80,000km/55,000m to make sure it isnt lazy.
- Timing Belt
Every 98,000km/65,000m. CRITICAL! Don't let this one go by! If it snaps, valves hit pistons and you engine could be toast!
Every 5 years. Have it tested often. If the battery is bad, you alternator will constantly be working to charge it and will fail. Make sure your contacts remain clean and free of corrosion.
- Shocks and Struts
Every 98,000km/65,000m Of course, this depends on your driving habits. They may last longer or shorter, but this is the recommended interval.
They should be inspected every oil change. If you are not totally sure how to do brakes TAKE IT TO A SHOP! It's a safety issue. Find a shop that measures the brake pads in thirty-seconds of an inch and not %. Percentages usually mean diddly squat.
Rotate them on a regular basis based on wear. (approx 10,000km or 6,000m) Make sure your best tires are on the front wheels, where your control comes from. Replace when tread is low. Make sure there is no high spots or buldges.
- Wheel Berings
Recommended every 60,000km/40,000m, although they usually last much longer on hondas.
Drive on a FLAT road and make sure there is no pull to one side. I've heard some shops say there should be a little bit of pull incase you fall asleep at the wheel you don't hit oncoming traffic. This is bull, stay away from shops that tell you this. Make sure the tires aren't wearing unevenly.
- Flush Front/Rear Differential, Transfer case.
Only if you have 4x4 (CRV) or a rear wheel drive (s2000), should you worry about this every 60,000km/40,000m.
- Cabin Air Filter
Only equiped on some vehicles. Replace if dirty (you dont wanna breathe that fungus).
Other Service Items (check every oil change):
- Drive belts/Serpentine belts
Replace when belt has around 3 tiny cracks per inch, or when dry and old, or every 5 years. Make sure that the belt tensioners are doing their job.
- Inspect your exhaust for leaks or corrosion.
- Check marker and headlights, wiper blades, horn.
- Check Engine mounts, ball joints, suspension, tie rods, bushings, parking brake.
- Check for oil or fluid leaks, check to make sure coolant hoses are NOT soft and crunchy, check that clamps are on properly.
Hope this helps. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask, or let me know if it seems i've missed anything.