View Full Version : does any one have a wagovan

01-04-2009, 05:34 AM
any year i have a 1985 front wheel drive planning to make a all wheel drive and i wanna throw out the carberated motor and throw in a d15b in it
first question is going from carbed to fuel injected?
how much of a troubles is that




01-04-2009, 05:36 AM
Carb to fuel injected -- you're looking at a new ECU, new harness, new motor, new fuel lines, new fuel pump, etc.

It's quite a bit of work.

01-04-2009, 10:48 AM
Check out EastCoastEK's wagovan build...he is just finishing it off...may be some help for you...

01-04-2009, 02:56 PM
:headbang: wagovans

01-05-2009, 02:33 AM
i got the motor(d16b), and ecu from hmotorsonline.com for 700 bucks shipped.

01-05-2009, 02:36 AM
i forgot to add that its all around disc brakes for me now
got it from a 89 teggy

01-06-2009, 04:12 AM
Carb to fuel injected -- you're looking at a new ECU, new harness, new motor, new fuel lines, new fuel pump, etc.

It's quite a bit of work.

y would i wanna change the pump

01-07-2009, 10:28 PM
Need more psi

01-07-2009, 11:34 PM
Hey, I've been meaning to get a chance and reply to your thread for a few days, but work has been getting the best of me this week.

First of, nice wagon! Your off to a great start with the Teg brake upgrades. Did you upgrade the MC? I've always read that when you upgrade the front AND the rear to Teg disc components, that it is also necessary to run a stronger MC. I have a direct bolt on MC from an '85 Prelude, Carbed. it's a harder working MC, and will compliment your set-up nicely. Let me know if you want it. Don't think I'll be needing it at the current moment.

I'm glad that you have the 2WD. This will make EVERYTHING easier for you. D15 headers will fit, coilover set-ups are available, etc...

As far as your engine set-up, yes, as Eran said, you will need to swap out ALL of the things on his list in order to run a FI set-up. To a novice, or even decently-skilled mechanic, it is A LOT of work, and really unnecessary.

I would suggest: Buy a D16a1 and make sure buy a BROWN TOP engine. These came from the 86-87 Integras. They run vacuum advanced ignition, and the wiring is much easier. All that is needed is some basic mods to the engine harness. A conversion to F.I. is not necessary if you can find a Carbed ZC intake manifold from Japan. These ARE floating around, and can be found with a little effort. Only a few ZC's were made as carbed motors. Find the manifold and a carb, and your there. Easy bump from 75hp to around 115. Viola!

Option 2: Buy the same engine, and try to find a TWM manifold with dual-webers or dual-mikunis like my set-up. it will look very similar to mine, but just made for the D16 instead.

Lastly, just keep the stock engine and work on it. I'm very happy with how my set-up turned out. I haven't really gotten into the engine yet, as I'm still breaking it in. However, there is a significant difference in power, I can tell you that. Before, I used to struggle to get onto the interstate safely. Now, no problems, for sure.

Below is a detailed post that I typed up for a dude on Honda-Tech. He wanted to go FI with a B-series swap. Check it out:

Yeah, you need to LIVE on the search engine at redpepperracing.com for the next couple of weeks. It's the 3rd gen bible!

Great group of guys over there. They will help you build any 84-87 civic/crx right.

There are quite a few guys doing b16 swaps over there. However, before you dump oodles of money and time into a b series swap (engine, tranny, mounts, WIRING and fuel-line re-routing from a carb. car to a fuel injection set-up (if your not FI already) is NOT cheap NOR easy, ECU, etc...) consider and research these options:

(1) Stick with your stock d15 engine. It actually has a lot of hidden potential. Bolt-on's like headers and ignition, etc..., ARE available for these engines, they are just a little harder to come by. They are constantly for sale on rpr, so just check the classifieds regularly.

HOWEVER, the main sectret to getting power out of these engines is in porting/polishing and getting more flow out of the head. These engines have been known to push 120+ horsepower, NA, with a good amount of head work. I know 120 doesn't sound like a lot, but considering the engines came with around 90 hp, that's a substantial percentage increase.
Though I am no expert by any means, I believe the rods are fairly strong in the block. With a few upgrades to the block, these engines can be turbocharged to 200+ hp!! No need for a swap, wiring, etc... Less headache, and still keep the "old school" feel.

I believe that a lot of people think that dropping a b-series into their car will give the bay that tough look too. Sure it will, this is true. However, consider what your bay would look like if your current engine was meticulously cleaned/painted, etc.., valve cover w/ fresh paint, new wires, ..... That little D can look TOUGH, and run strong! There is a guy named "Sgt Pepper" on RPR. Man, his bay looks SWEET! Check his thread out here: http://www.redpepperracing.com/forum...howtopic=26729


(2) Swap to a D16a1 (or JDM ZC, same engine, more "goodies"); this engine comes out of a 86-89 Acura Integra. They are DOHC engines, like the B series, minus Vtec though. Best part, they bolt right in! They came in the higher-end Euro and JDM hatches during the 80's, so they still "suite the era". These are AWESOME engines!!!! Especially the ZC. They are a great platform, b/c there is SOOO much room to port in the head. They make strong NA engines, and can be fitted with Suzuki Vitara pistons (same bore size, lower compression to 8:1), a cometic head gasket, and arp studs, and turbo'd to 300+ hp, with properly build NA set-ups pushing towards almost 200 hp!!

So, who needs a B-series?!

Keep it simple, keep it old school!

I don't know much about the D15b. I'm not even sure if it bolts right in. Do you know if you would need custom mounts? It just sounds like a headache. I know it would be a non-traditional swap, as noone I have heard of or seen on RPR has done this swap. I would just keep with what has been done before: rock the stock D15a and build it right, or buy the Teg D16a1. Maybe you can sell your D15b for one of these engines with some money to spare to put towards the manifold or dual-carbs.

Just my thoughts, I hope this helps.

Best of luck! Great to see another wagon on here!! :)

01-08-2009, 12:07 AM
^Good post right there^
makes me want to build a wagovan

01-08-2009, 05:49 PM
im a stick with the d15b thanks for the info eastcoastek ill swap over the fuel pump to a high flow fp. shouldnt i be able to use the original fuel lines. and the teggy brakes doesnt have a upgrade mc if u woldnt mind ill take that out of ur hands. if u look close i had to swap the trailing arms because the teggys were to short. ill let u guys know how much of a headace the d15b is gonna be

01-08-2009, 06:37 PM
looks good how many miles are on it

01-08-2009, 07:40 PM
looks good how many miles are on it

the rings are blown so every time i turn it on theres just ton of smoke its funny

01-09-2009, 04:54 AM
i have a bunch of ideas for thejdm d15b vtec theres
a headswap.(what head should i use)
bore.(could i bore to 1.8 and use b series internalls or parts)
swap the internals from a diff motor, i was reading and herd u could use d16 connecting rods
run turbo wit 7psi
making it rtawd
stuff a totally different motor and use the rear wheel drive parts from awd civc

01-09-2009, 09:50 AM
That is just a box on wheels...of pure awesomeness. GL with the build.

01-09-2009, 03:50 PM
Brother, read this post.


I'm telling you, your about to dig into a barrel of worms here with this D15b. The last guy to post on this thread (Ibcyna) helped me do a lot of my work. He is a WEALTH of knowledge on the 3g and 4g civics, and pretty much ANY possible swap that you can think of, so take his word for it, and don't go this route. Sell the engine. Just keep it simple and go with the stock engine.

I've been getting done with my "break in" period. Even pulling up to 4500rpm ONLY, the stock engine is pulling SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much harder than I ever thought it would. These Mikuni's are crazy bro, crazy. I still haven't even put the Si head, ported and polished, with new reground cam on the engine. I can't wait until that! Man, than I will REALLY be set. JUST KEEP IT SIMPLE. SIIIIMMMMMPPPPLE.

I'm not trying to boss you around or tell you what to do. I just don't want you to be frustrated in the end.

01-09-2009, 05:17 PM
fo sho
im willing to face the headace, my friends shop said he will do it for $500
i was gonna stick wit the same motor but couldnt find anything as in aftermarket parts just headers no internals just headers

01-09-2009, 07:16 PM
fo sho
im willing to face the headace, my friends shop said he will do it for $500
i was gonna stick wit the same motor but couldnt find anything as in aftermarket parts just headers no internals just headers

Internal parts available for a D15a3:


Use the Si head. Much better flowing head. A LOT of room for porting and polishing, and it will flow even better.

Cams: Send yours off to Colt Racing for a stage 1 or 2 regrind.

Head Gasket: Cometic or other, your choice really.

Head Studs: ARP (of course!), the Si head has spaces for (4) more (yeah, count em, 4) ADDITIONAL head studs. What other block/head has that?! 10 studs total, make them ARP's and BALLA!

Valve Springs: Use the Si inner springs on the Si head and ADD the DX outer springs from your old DX head. You now have DUAL VALVE SPRINGS. You can rev up to 7500RPM and more ALL DAY with no problems. Has been done by MANY people. (Screw Vtec).


Pistons: Use D16a1 pistons (raises compression!; direct fit), or Suzuki Vitara pistons for a turbo (lowers compression); siince D16a1 pistons FIT and the Integra has more aftermarket support, you can EASILY find more oversize pistons and bore out your block to raise compression in a NA set-up.

Rods: Stock; D15a3 is one of the most stout bottom ends EVER made by Honda. Do your research!!

Rod pins: Replace these with after-market units, the only weak spot in the block. They ARE available, I just don't know the brand.

So, that's what you need on your stock engine. All of this above is HEAVILY DOCUMENTED at RPR, it's just not widespread knowledge, llike you might find with the later model Vtec D-series.

You can do all of the above for about $500 and have a stout engine that will kick the crap out of that D15b all day and look good doing it. You'll break even if you sell the D15b. Then you can put the $500 you WERE going to pay to the shop and put it savings, where all of our money NEEDS to be, LOL!

As far as the whole 4WD thing, I believe you may have the wrong impression of this 4WD deal. It's not like a Subaru 4WD system, which is made for performance. This set-up is geared towards helping you to trek through snow and maybe go (gulp) off-roading. Totally different deal.

It won't help you to go faster. If anything, it will slow you down. The 4WD tranny weighs about 75 pounds more than a non-4WD tranny. I know, we had to lift one several times! The 4WD driveshaft will not only add more weight to your vehicle (slow you down), but it will also give you MUCH lower gas mileage.

So, for performance, keep your 2WD stuff. There is also no aftermarket support available for the 4WD's rear suspsension. So, forget about coilovers. How did I lower my car? Well, I heated the rear springs to collapse them in the rear, and reindexed the front torsion bars 2-clicks to lower the front. It rides like a railroad cart (but it sure looks good!). With 2WD stuff on your car, you can get a multitude of coilovers for your set-up. ANY 84-87 Civic or CRX coilover set-up wlll also fit on your ride; Ground Control makes a kit, and so does Tein!!!! (Google "Medieval Pro Kit"). I went 4WD b/c I like the "nostalgic" value of it. It was the first 4WD Honda ever made, and there are very few of "the Real Times" left out there!

Keep it simple. Your car can be balla with what's on it right now. The only thing I would have switched about your set-up was the brakes, and you've already done that! BRAVO!

Just carefully reconsider this next engine move. If you think you can do it though, more power to you.

Oh, and you ARE going to have to run new fuel lines. At the very least, you will have to run return lines back to the tank. You'll have to have an in-line fuel pump as well. Man, what a headache! This shop probably doesn't know what its getting in to...

01-09-2009, 07:41 PM
you are a jdm d15 GOD ahahahahaha
n i know the awd thing is a bit tideous but thought it would be coo to go awd the axles at the end of the diff are as thin as Q-Tips

01-09-2009, 10:26 PM
you are a jdm d15 GOD ahahahahaha
n i know the awd thing is a bit tideous but thought it would be coo to go awd the axles at the end of the diff are as thin as Q-Tips

ha, ha. Thanks. Definitely not a God, though. I just learned everything the HARD way, and have been blessed to have such a great group of people at RPR to help me out. THOSE guys are incredibly knowledgeable about cars, in general.

Either way you go, best of luck to you!

01-10-2009, 02:52 AM

01-11-2009, 04:04 AM
alright know im 50 50 on the d15b