civic DYING!!!

[Tam4511]

OK, my civic has been dying freqently for a while, i thought it was the fule pump, so i replaced that, thought it was the fuel filter replaced that, thought it was the injectors, replaced those, while all of these things made it alittle better, it still dies... lately it'l start fine but dies after a while and will keep dying after i start it more often and often(as it getss warmer as i guess), and my tach is goin haywire past 1800 rpm, mabey its realted idk.

Please help me!!!!!!!!!
Tyler

also the ecu was sayin the injectors were bad, so i replaced them, and its still sayin it.... what else could make it do this other than bad injectors?

[cheezeonmakneez]

sounds like your distributor is crappin on you.

[4bangincivic]

added. Ok this might sound like a silly question..are ur battery terminals tight? exact same thing happened to me and i couldnt figure out wtf was going on lol. Other than that you might want to replace the distributor.

[haftahonda]

woah dude! stop throwing parts at it. the only thing that fails on these cars is the main relay under the dash, but that will usually cause a no start condition, or the distributor assembly. the relay is 60 and the dist is 200. your problem is one of those, i guarrantee it.

[Tam4511]

woah dude! stop throwing parts at it. the only thing that fails on these cars is the main relay under the dash, but that will usually cause a no start condition, or the distributor assembly. the relay is 60 and the dist is 200. your problem is one of those, i guarrantee it.

well it starts perfect(cept for sum times when 1 of the valves stick) but iv just been replacin the parts thatl go bad anyway, but thanks for the help guys ill look at usm distributers, if any 1 has any other commentds, questions or suggestions with my problem feel free to post!!:lol:

[blue88civic]

I just had that problem its the main relay

[haftahonda]

yeah, the main relay is sooooo common, but it's usually after sitting in the sun and then the car won't start. cranks but no start. you can sometimes just kick your dash with your left foot and it'll start. i actually just fix the relays by soldering the joint back together. its real easy to spot. just pull of the relay cover and look and the 8 or 10 solder joints and the one or two that has a crack on the solder is your problem. i always just take my 12 dollar craftsman solder pen, and remelt all the joints and that fixes it, assuming the problem is the relay. i've got pics if anyone want to see.

[civicturbo91]

try the plugs first before you spend 150 bux on the distributer

[haftahonda]

the plugs arent gonna cause the car to die randomly

[4bangincivic]

the plugs arent gonna cause the car to die randomly

Yeah...? If you have malfunctioning plugs that are broken

[Jersey8]

Yeah...? If you have malfunctioning plugs that are broken

bad plugs will just cause a cylinder misfire

[haftahonda]

yep a mis. if a plug is broken, your eng could die, but youd be running on three cylinders. this guys problem was his car just shuts off driving down the road. you should be able to tell if your eng is running on three being as you only have 75 percent avail power and a piston along for the ride! hehe.....

[Tam4511]

ok its not misfiring, i think i know whats goin on, my dad found sum info and we think its th main relay casue they say that it has bad souldering and it can casue it to run perfectly and die randomly AND IT CAN CAUSE THE ECU TO SAY THE INJECTORS ARE BAD so its a good chance thats it, and its a cheap fix, just take it to a electrical shop and have it resoulderd!
other suggestions are still welcome!, also one of my valves are sticking, now that its hot out it doesent stick but it was and i will needa fix by this winter.

[haftahonda]

did u even read my first reply? just go buy one at your local parts store for 60 bucks.

[haftahonda]

or solder it. good show.

[kwell]

if it was the dist. he would be throwing cyl position sensor, or crank angle.. when it dies does it start right back up? it doesnt sound like main relay to me but it looks like you realy loaded up the parts shotgun on this thing...

[pachizeron]

Hey dude, thats a major bomber! I think that it would be best if you just take your ride to someone who really knows how to fix Honda's.

[haftahonda]

sometimes the dist will not set a code. if the ignitor is faulty, a lot of times, the ecu isn't fast enough to catch it, and the vehicle dies. if it stays broke during craniking, that's when itl set the codes. in the b series engines there are 3 sensors tdc, crank, and cyl for inj timing. in the d's there are only 2 sensors crank and tdc. just change your relay first, and if that doesn't fix it go get a dist. and for the valve problem, its possible to attempt to clean the carbon that's hanging up your valve cold. u can ask at shop, they have this stuff called "motorvac" solution, and it's actually a non-flammable detergent that eats carbon. try runnin your engine an pour some of that right in the intake boot, most likeley the vehicle will die, but when you get it started again, you'll see a shit load of wierd smoke out the back, and that's all that carbon coming out. you can also have a motorvac done through your injectors at a shop for about 125 bucks.. its a real good thing to do anyway, honda has a big problem with carbon.

[Tam4511]

did u even read my first reply? just go buy one at your local parts store for 60 bucks.

oh im sorry, idk how i missed that reply lol sorry, but yeah im pretty shure your right, i read sum were that the souldering is commonly bad in them so im just gonna take it out resoulder it and see if that fixes it.

sometimes the dist will not set a code. if the ignitor is faulty, a lot of times, the ecu isn't fast enough to catch it, and the vehicle dies. if it stays broke during craniking, that's when itl set the codes. in the b series engines there are 3 sensors tdc, crank, and cyl for inj timing. in the d's there are only 2 sensors crank and tdc. just change your relay first, and if that doesn't fix it go get a dist. and for the valve problem, its possible to attempt to clean the carbon that's hanging up your valve cold. u can ask at shop, they have this stuff called "motorvac" solution, and it's actually a non-flammable detergent that eats carbon. try runnin your engine an pour some of that right in the intake boot, most likeley the vehicle will die, but when you get it started again, you'll see a shit load of wierd smoke out the back, and that's all that carbon coming out. you can also have a motorvac done through your injectors at a shop for about 125 bucks.. its a real good thing to do anyway, honda has a big problem with carbon.

ko, my dd though it could b the alternator as well, so we pulled it out and took it to napa to get ittested, but it was running at the exact specs it was in1991 lol

Hey dude, thats a major bomber! I think that it would be best if you just take your ride to someone who really knows how to fix Honda's.

my dads a mechanic...we know what were doin, jut dontknow every htoing about hondas, the only reaon we would take it to the shop is to see whats wrong with it, and i can do that here...

my dads a mechanic...we know what were doin, jut dontknow every htoing about hondas, the only reaon we would take it to the shop is to find out what is causing the pblem, and i can do that here...

[kwell]

sometimes the dist will not set a code. if the ignitor is faulty, a lot of times, the ecu isn't fast enough to catch it, and the vehicle dies. if it stays broke during craniking, that's when itl set the codes. in the b series engines there are 3 sensors tdc, crank, and cyl for inj timing. in the d's there are only 2 sensors crank and cyl position sensor. just change your relay first, and if that doesn't fix it go get a dist. and for the valve problem, its possible to attempt to clean the carbon that's hanging up your valve cold. u can ask at shop, they have this stuff called "motorvac" solution, and it's actually a non-flammable detergent that eats carbon. try runnin your engine an pour some of that right in the intake boot, most likeley the vehicle will die, but when you get it started again, you'll see a shit load of wierd smoke out the back, and that's all that carbon coming out. you can also have a motorvac done through your injectors at a shop for about 125 bucks.. its a real good thing to do anyway, honda has a big problem with carbon.

I corrected this a little

but if it was his crank angle or cyl position sensor his car would not shut off.. it will just run like shit..

" honda has a big problem with carbon" I have never heard or seen this...

[Tam4511]

ok, i put the alternator back in and resoulderd the main relay( could tell obviuos wear and disconections) it starts up perfectlly now, adn hasnt died, now i needa fix the electrical problem with my parking lights/instrument lights and its good to go!

[haftahonda]

never seen carbon on hondas? maybe you spend too much time at mcdonalds parking lot instead of fixing cars. ive been a master tech for 11 years and ive fixed dozens of egr codes simply by cleaning carbon from the egr ports, yes, thats right, carbon. very common.

[95 civic hatch]

Is the main relay the one by the hood release latch? Sorry to thread jack a little.

[Tam4511]

Is the main relay the one by the hood release latch? Sorry to thread jack a little.

yea, it slides right outa the black shell and you can see the circuits at the bottom, i just resoulderd em and it runs puuuuurrrrrrfect=)

[haftahonda]

yes, to re solder, you must remove the black or grey cover from the relay. if you remove the little screw holding the bottom of your dash in, and then remove the screw for the relay(gear wrenches work awesome for this) then simply pry with your hand on the dash just enough for the relay to fall out (or pull out) then its easier to unplug, and you can go from there. btw, i have re soldered them, and then had a come-back. the solenoid windings can go bad too. it is best just to get a new one from your parts supplier. try to stick with oe parts.

[Tam4511]

yes, to re solder, you must remove the black or grey cover from the relay. if you remove the little screw holding the bottom of your dash in, and then remove the screw for the relay(gear wrenches work awesome for this) then simply pry with your hand on the dash just enough for the relay to fall out (or pull out) then its easier to unplug, and you can go from there. btw, i have re soldered them, and then had a come-back. the solenoid windings can go bad too. it is best just to get a new one from your parts supplier. try to stick with oe parts.

yea, im gonna do that, the osuldering was just semi temporary