Hood Spacer Modification
- Thread starter civic99white
- Start date
your friend said that, but have you actually taken a digidoc5, with flat ribbon sensors and taped them onto the more critical parts of the engine, and have taken readings?
The idea honda engineers had was to have a complete changeover of hot air inside the engine bay, while replacing it with cooler fresh air outside. If you know anything about aerodynamics, air is best when its moving in ONE direction. You pop the hood, now you have 2 different forces going against eachother, which means not all the air is excaping. Car engineers have proven you have a more aerodynamic car when the COWL area is sealed.
air pressure is high on the front of the bumper, and windshield cowl area. There are enough openings on the crossmember and above the radiator to allow the engine bay temps be 10-20* warmer over ambient while cruising.
Im just saying your tests are all wrong, its been proven by many engineers. Your temp gauge might be cooler, but something else in your engine bay is hotter, because air isnt moving the way they designed it. Seriously, cars have been around for generation after generation, They'[ve spent millions in the wind tunnel. Your telling me you fanboy bandwagoneers have sucessfully beat a windtunnel costing $10,000 per hour?[/QUOTE]
Yes, that's exactly what they're trying to tell you!
Anywho, what difference does it make if your bay is 10 degrees cooler on your way to work?
The difference is your battery will corrode faster, your fuel filter will rust faster, your engine bay will become super dirty. You will also spent more money on gas than anything. your sucking water, salt, dirty and other crap right in there
in all your infinite wisdom, please explain to me how this is THAT much different from the hood prop? there is still going to be a disruption in the airflow that you claim is the problem with the washer trick to begin with. that vent will cause the air to curl under itself just as a wave hitting a sandbar in the ocean. the wave flows over the sandbar and then builds only to collapse and curl back on itself when it goes forward into deeper water. hydro/fluid dynamics arent THAT much different from aerodynamics. and i guess the fact that the air being forced through the 2 front grilles does ABSOLUTELY nothing to force hot air out of a propped hood. and you know...cowl induction hoods never help at all in drag cars or anything.
Again you have it all wrong, Cowl induction only cools a specific area.
High pressure will always migrate to low pressure.
I had my hood propped, as well as removed the undermesh of the hood, to increase area under the hood, aswell as excaping heat. That was a pretty large opening, which would almost allow any ammount of heat to excape.
On the bottom of the splash gaurd, there is a ridge to disrupt flow, this is effective to slow air down enough to create a low pressure zone, while moving, to zip air from the bay to the bottom of the car is expell it. The splash gaurd extends to just before the oil pan. So everything from the manifold back is pulled out when in motion. Its a system they have designed to extract warm out from the engine bay. You want warm air being pulled, instead of cool air forcing its way into the bay. They did this to use aerodynamics to their advantage. Since your going forward, for free, the air rushing past will do you a favor and pull the warm air from the bay. If you were to reverse this, your actually working against aerodynamics, and will effectivly hurt aerodynamics of the car.
The hood slash on that 240 is using the same thing. Air isnt being rerouted, its moving over the slashed area, and extracing warm air. Think of a slash cut in an exhaust. Air rushing past a hole PULLS air to create a vacuum. Induction systems are only for carbs and intakes, or to cool a turbo, or to INDUCT air into ITB's. You do NOT want to induct air into your engine bay just to cool it, you want to EXTRACT warm air, and the JDM hood prop does NOT extract air, it vents it while standing still, thats all
High pressure will always migrate to low pressure.
I had my hood propped, as well as removed the undermesh of the hood, to increase area under the hood, aswell as excaping heat. That was a pretty large opening, which would almost allow any ammount of heat to excape.
On the bottom of the splash gaurd, there is a ridge to disrupt flow, this is effective to slow air down enough to create a low pressure zone, while moving, to zip air from the bay to the bottom of the car is expell it. The splash gaurd extends to just before the oil pan. So everything from the manifold back is pulled out when in motion. Its a system they have designed to extract warm out from the engine bay. You want warm air being pulled, instead of cool air forcing its way into the bay. They did this to use aerodynamics to their advantage. Since your going forward, for free, the air rushing past will do you a favor and pull the warm air from the bay. If you were to reverse this, your actually working against aerodynamics, and will effectivly hurt aerodynamics of the car.
The hood slash on that 240 is using the same thing. Air isnt being rerouted, its moving over the slashed area, and extracing warm air. Think of a slash cut in an exhaust. Air rushing past a hole PULLS air to create a vacuum. Induction systems are only for carbs and intakes, or to cool a turbo, or to INDUCT air into ITB's. You do NOT want to induct air into your engine bay just to cool it, you want to EXTRACT warm air, and the JDM hood prop does NOT extract air, it vents it while standing still, thats all
so please elaborate, based on your logic, as to how that DIY hood is any different that the hood prop.
the area directly over the hood is NOT directing air into the bay, its extracting. The hood prop is directing air into the hood. Picture this in your head, its not changing air directing, its pulling air from the hood.
You guys suck, stop arguing. Leave the hood where it is because thats how it was designed.
People usually do the washer trick because their hood won't clear the H22.
It looks gay, messes up the body lines. Not to mention a dirty engine bay. Who cares if you get a whole 10degrees cooler.
Use some exhaust wrap and call it a day.
People usually do the washer trick because their hood won't clear the H22.
It looks gay, messes up the body lines. Not to mention a dirty engine bay. Who cares if you get a whole 10degrees cooler.
Use some exhaust wrap and call it a day.
actually the secret to cooling the engine is this, and it actually works
Seal off the openings around the radiator. This way air is FORCED into the fins, and has no way around it. Probably the best cooling mod out there bar none.
you want the engine oil to be around 260*f or so so it can burn off some of the inconsistancies that will affect the lubrication of the oil. You want the parts to be hot enough to fill all the tolerances, for efficient movement, and least energy loss.
The only things you want to keep cool are the intake/IM, and radiator/coolant. Focus on cooling those things and call it a day. Unless you track/boosted/high compression, then you probably want to cool the oil, to maintain it at a specific level, probably right before thermal breakdown.
Seal off the openings around the radiator. This way air is FORCED into the fins, and has no way around it. Probably the best cooling mod out there bar none.
you want the engine oil to be around 260*f or so so it can burn off some of the inconsistancies that will affect the lubrication of the oil. You want the parts to be hot enough to fill all the tolerances, for efficient movement, and least energy loss.
The only things you want to keep cool are the intake/IM, and radiator/coolant. Focus on cooling those things and call it a day. Unless you track/boosted/high compression, then you probably want to cool the oil, to maintain it at a specific level, probably right before thermal breakdown.
im no genius on air or anything but if you do the hood prop i doubt a heat pocket is gonna stay under your hood when youre going 65 down the freeway.......you honestly think you will have better airflow with just your grill and bumper vents or with air coming in through your bumper and grill then into your intake and all extra coming straight out the back of the hood........you can sit there and use all the big words and terms you want.......if youre goin 55 air isnt gonna squaredance under your hood
Civic2007 are you running ITB's or a turbo? If not then your loosing a whole ton of efficiency then. You could seal off all the openings on the bumper so NO air enters the front of the car, and it wouldnt matter. The way your car cools itself is through negative pressure. The air exits the bottom of the car, thats it, thats how they designed the cooling system on your honda. The reason that heat pocket isnt going to stay in your engine normally is because negative pressure.
Think about vacuum, this is exactly how honda flushes the warm air out of the car. Its sucking the air from the bottom of the car, i cant stress that enough. Why disrupt this vacuum? Thats like opening up yoru intake manifold for more air.
People actually seal their engine bay up to aid cooling. Because no matter what, when your driving air will be refreshed through the vacuum. If you pop the hood, your just Fuking this up, why? and how?;
This will clear EVERYTHING up;
Air comes in from the small openings above the radiator, or any other small wholes around the crossmember. This air is not forced in, its "sucked" in by the vacuum (air rushing below the car). Now since the Hood cowl is sealed, it sucks all the warm air from the engine bay, starting from teh front of the car. "negative pressure removes warm air/Positive pressure adds cool air, BUT, that positive pressure needs to fill teh WHOLE engine bay, and only way for that is to not run a bumper or hood, or fenders. This is pure physics.
The splash gaurd extends to the oil pan, after the oil pan and splash gaurd, this is where all the warm air is extracted. If you were to OPEN the hood cowl area, the negative pressure takes from the nearest source, the high pressure hood cowl. So this leaves the front of the engine bay, INCLUDING THE RADIATOR, totally uncooled. This will be atmospheric pressure, which means no changeover.
Now dont get me wrong, at idle it REALLY helps to have the cowl open. I could put my hand there and it was like an oven. But im more concerned when im cruising, because what do you do more when your driving your car. Air cooling isnt as important as water cooling your car. Nothing is that easy. Otherwise honda would have put a small vent near the cowl
Think about vacuum, this is exactly how honda flushes the warm air out of the car. Its sucking the air from the bottom of the car, i cant stress that enough. Why disrupt this vacuum? Thats like opening up yoru intake manifold for more air.
People actually seal their engine bay up to aid cooling. Because no matter what, when your driving air will be refreshed through the vacuum. If you pop the hood, your just Fuking this up, why? and how?;
This will clear EVERYTHING up;
Air comes in from the small openings above the radiator, or any other small wholes around the crossmember. This air is not forced in, its "sucked" in by the vacuum (air rushing below the car). Now since the Hood cowl is sealed, it sucks all the warm air from the engine bay, starting from teh front of the car. "negative pressure removes warm air/Positive pressure adds cool air, BUT, that positive pressure needs to fill teh WHOLE engine bay, and only way for that is to not run a bumper or hood, or fenders. This is pure physics.
The splash gaurd extends to the oil pan, after the oil pan and splash gaurd, this is where all the warm air is extracted. If you were to OPEN the hood cowl area, the negative pressure takes from the nearest source, the high pressure hood cowl. So this leaves the front of the engine bay, INCLUDING THE RADIATOR, totally uncooled. This will be atmospheric pressure, which means no changeover.
Now dont get me wrong, at idle it REALLY helps to have the cowl open. I could put my hand there and it was like an oven. But im more concerned when im cruising, because what do you do more when your driving your car. Air cooling isnt as important as water cooling your car. Nothing is that easy. Otherwise honda would have put a small vent near the cowl
just take off the whole hood or put some bags of ice before leaving so the engine can be cool
Move to Alaska and drive during the winter months. Problem solved
dam i just asked for a simple link and everyone starts arguing
I guess YoungKadafi thinks he has someting to proove
I told you in my first post how to do it.
"a fool's mouth is his ruin"