How to turbo your Honda for cheap... (by me)
- Thread starter codyllee
- Start date
resistor box?
greddy downpipe used is real cheap ive seen em for 50
greddy downpipe used is real cheap ive seen em for 50
and chances are won't last very long. downpipes go through interesting heat cycles that would slay any normal exhaust piping. hence most OEM downpipes or elbows being cast: it's a cheap way to get a material that will last through the heating and cooling.
either way, documenting your build in a thread is always a good idea. great job, nice choice of parts. what T25 are you going with?
One note though:
I'd spend the extra couple bucks for a brand named blow off valve. The ebay ones work, yeah. But you really dont want compressor surge on your turbo, and from stories I've read, is that sometimes the BOV doesnt even blow off, and just goes straight back to the turbo..which is very bad.
You dont have to go out and buy anything crazy, like a 300$ HKS bov, if you are on a budget, you can find cheaper ones, but that have a reputable name. Like Blitz, I got mine for 100$
I'd spend the extra couple bucks for a brand named blow off valve. The ebay ones work, yeah. But you really dont want compressor surge on your turbo, and from stories I've read, is that sometimes the BOV doesnt even blow off, and just goes straight back to the turbo..which is very bad.
You dont have to go out and buy anything crazy, like a 300$ HKS bov, if you are on a budget, you can find cheaper ones, but that have a reputable name. Like Blitz, I got mine for 100$
garrett t25 from a sr20
Dude, we weren't bashing. You were just being ignorant.alright whatever its a HMT kit
I was just simply attempting to lay out my build for anyone to view.
But if all the boost experts are going to bash then please delete this thread
uhh...have you even looked at any setup on pretty much any Honda forum? nobody runs cast elbows unless they buy a kit. ive ran 4 different "exhaust piping" DPs and never once had a problem. even my current one that it heatwrapped(increased heat retention) and with Crome 2 step with 40* timing retard and .9ms fuel on my launch control with the engine popping, building boost, and shooting flames i have never had a problem.
in short, your statement doesnt hold water
The issue was resolved, if you are trying to create another arguement please do not participate in this thread.
Thanks
i was wondering at what psi does this diy/hmt put it together type kit thing.. be able to produce.. because sence your getting the lower quality parts wouldnt that kinda hold back the psi you can produce in the system? for reliable reasons.. im not talking about 4000psi or anything.. i mean to push it to 15/20 wouldnt it be kinda iffy..
Since he is putting his kit together on a d series, he should only want to have 6-8 psi on stock internals. So either way, you aren't going to get less than 6 psi in most cases correct me if I'm wrong. If his kit does produce well over 8 psi, then he will need rods, pistons, block guard etc. I recommend using a boost gauge and just making sure you dont boost too high if your engine cant support the kit. Again, correct me if I'm wrong.
you are wrong.
for 1, psi doesnt mean s**t. and 2, a stock d series can handle WELL over 8 psi on a stock t25 turbo. i ran 15psi through a t3 .42/.48 on my stock a6 and didnt have an issue. its all in the tune
well let me paint a pictcha fo ya.......... d16zc dohc. vitara ycp low compression pistons 8.5:1 , eagle h rods, block guard, titanium springs , arp head studs, ect.. i mean full blown the hell out rebuild with turbo everything.. would this kit produce the ability to keep it at around 30psi constantly? or would some of the piping give way from the pressure?
dohc zc with vitaras is going to be in the neighborhood of 6.5:1 not 8.5