97 LX wont stay running
- Thread starter bmx4life54321
- Start date
im just giving myself options cuz without it telling me any codes im goin in blind and runnin outa options
RonJ
Banned
You can solve the problem without codes. Doing the troubleshooting that I have already mentioned will change your blindness to vision.
alright so it tried pulling the codes again with the method you gave me. no go... what happens iswhen the jumper wire is in the connector and you turn the key to the on position all the lights come on, the CEL stays on and does not flash however the SRS light flashes once and stays on and then nothing else happens. does this mean anything?? i dont have any starter fluid but we kept priming the fuel pump for a couple minutes and the car started for about 30-45 seconds, we thought we had it then it died again and would only stay started for a second or two after that.guys got any other idea's? tomorrow im cleaning out the IACV to see if that helps a bit. Ron J id be lost without you!!!
okay guys im stumped, ive been workin on my girlfriends car all day. its a 98 lx with the d16y7 automatic. it just died on her on the way to class today. has been running fine and no signs of problems. i ruled out the possible electrical problems, we put a new distributor, ignition control moduel, plugs and wires last year. i got it running for 30-45 seconds and then it died. after it runs for about 4 or 5 seconds and you prime the fuel pump a couple times it starts for a second then dies. i think its just not getting fuel. i know it has spark because it wouldnt run for that 45 seconds. it sounds normal when it starts but it still just dies. if you try to give it gas it bogs out and dies. i tried getting CEL codes the engine light is not on and when i try to use a jumper and count the CEL flashes nothing happens. all the lights stay on and the SRS light flashes once and stays on. why does this not work?? i have class early in the morning so im done for the night. tomorrow im going to clean out the IACV and try and keep the car running with starter fluid just to totally rule out the electrical problem. i need to get this done asap!!! i dont wanna have to drive her to work and everything and screw up my car on these crappy minnesota roads.
it has good spark
try replacing fuel filter and/or pump.. i would start with the cheapest 1st and rule it out.. filters are cheap. pumps can be found virtually anywhere.
^^^
are you sure the fuel pump actually primes when key is turned to ON? if so then fuel filter is the next check. followed by fuel rail/ injectors. personally having dealt with similiar problems it sounds like a fuel pump. UNSAFE way to test would be loosen a fuel line and turn the key to on if it sprays fuel evrywhere then you have a good pump if not problem solved
RonJ
Banned
alright so it tried pulling the codes again with the method you gave me. no go... what happens iswhen the jumper wire is in the connector and you turn the key to the on position all the lights come on, the CEL stays on and does not flash however the SRS light flashes once and stays on and then nothing else happens. does this mean anything?
This means that you don't have any CEL codes stored in the ECU. Jumping the service connector is also used to retrieve trouble codes from the SRS system. You also don't have any SRS codes, though this is irrelevant to your problem.
i dont have any starter fluid but we kept priming the fuel pump for a couple minutes and the car started for about 30-45 seconds, we thought we had it then it died again and would only stay started for a second or two after that.guys got any other idea's? tomorrow im cleaning out the IACV to see if that helps a bit.
The IACV is a highly unlikely cause of your problem. I recommend to check the mechanical timing to see whether the timing belt skipped a tooth. To do this, remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover and then use a breaker bar and socket to turn the crank pulley only COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the cam pulley is perfectly positioned at TDC1. Now look down at the crank pulley to see whether it too is positioned perfectly at TDC1. If not, the timing belt slipped.
The diagram below shows the cam and crank both positioned at TDC1.
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RonJ
Banned
Was spark bright white rather than weak orange or dark blue?
thanks man got it!!! and if that all lines up and i can keep it runnin on starter fluid?? sorry about all the question and thank you so so much for being so patient with me id pay you if i could haha
ive done this i just position an open fuel line in a snapple bottle and only turn it over for a second.... obviously with the bottle mounted in a stable way... in fact.. lol i used to take gas out o fmy car for my lawn mower doing this..
You can hear when the pump turns on. Best way to check and hear is to remove the back seat. Turn the car on the ACC and hear if the pump purges ON. If it does do that its faulty.
the thing that is BETTER about checking REAL fuel presence under the hood is that it will TELL you yes the pump IS running and fuel IS reaching the motor.. you have just eliminated a TON of BS work checking lines looking for potential kinks or cracks losses in fuel.. you KNOW gas is getting to the motor...
RonJ
Banned
If the mechanical timing is dead on, then the timing belt did not slip.
If you can keep the engine running with starting fluid, then you have a fuel delivery problem. You start by thinking about the fuel not making it to the rail or a problem with the injectors. It would also be wise to measure the fuel pressure.
If you can't keep the engine running with starting fluid and the mechanical timing is good, then compression test the cylinders.
Do all four spark plugs have bright white spark?
i did not see your other post. Thats another way to check it. Eventually if the pump is bad he is going to have to remove the rear seat.
okay so i just threw a new fuel filter on it and the pump is only a year old. the pump purges for 2 seconds before you try and start the car. i have a second pump that is still good so i could try that but the pump in the car now primes. if the injectors or fuel rail where clogged the car wouldnt have ran for 45 seconds then just die when it is about to sit at 800 rpm which is the normal idle would it?
the rear seat is already removed i can hear it priming for the two seconds with the seat on anyways