Electrical Problem: Won't Crank

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
Hey Guys,

I have 93 Si stock. so d16. One day I turned the car off, went to turn it back on 10 minutes later and nothing. Wounldn't crank at all. So I tried to jump it. nothing. However I do still get Power lights/Radio/ect when key is turn on. It will push start, so its the starting system somewhere. I pulled the starter (Mitsuba) off took it to AutoZone, They tested it 10 times, it came back good 10 out of 10 times. I checked the Relay under the hood # 39 in FSM. for ignition switch, its good.

what else I'm going to check tomorrow:

Clutch interlock switch

Starter Cut Relay

So after that what else should I check? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Now is the Ignition Switch, The key and cylinder?
 

RonJ

Banned
Hey Guys,

I have 93 Si stock. so d16. One day I turned the car off, went to turn it back on 10 minutes later and nothing. Wounldn't crank at all. So I tried to jump it. nothing. However I do still get Power lights/Radio/ect when key is turn on. It will push start, so its the starting system somewhere. I pulled the starter (Mitsuba) off took it to AutoZone, They tested it 10 times, it came back good 10 out of 10 times. I checked the Relay under the hood # 39 in FSM. for ignition switch, its good.

what else I'm going to check tomorrow:

Clutch interlock switch


Starter Cut Relay

So after that what else should I check? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Now is the Ignition Switch, The key and cylinder?
 


Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
Thanks again man, I like the folks on this forum, they are really helpful. I searched for starting problems found alot of threads of starting problems of a different kind. I searched for clutch interlock switch, and man there was a bunch of threads disscussing this same exact problem. I'll get back to everyone and let u know if thats it. Also is there anything special you need to do to bypass it. connect wires where plugs would be correct? I'll probably end up buying a new one anyways. there only $30.00 at VatoZone.
 

RonJ

Banned
The clutch safety switch is a common problem, but don't replace it unless you show that jumping the connector solves the starting problem.
 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
okay, so I can jump the connector and If thats the problem it should start right up? or I can test continuity between the two terminals on the actual clutch switch.
 

RonJ

Banned
Jump the connector. If it doesn't start, measure voltage at the two starter wires.
 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
okay, i tested test the starter cut relay, I'm getting continuity between 2 of the four prongs. so that should be good, I tried to jump the clutch interlock switch plug with a wire, and nothing. I pulled the clutch interlock switch out. tested that, I have continutiy when the button is pushed in, and no continuity when the button is out. so all of that tested good correct? I'm lost now. so when i measure voltage at the 2 wires on the starter. i should get 0 when the key is off and around 12 or so when the key is on? so does all this mean it has to be either the starter or ignition switch now?
 

RonJ

Banned
so all of that tested good correct?

Yep, all sounds good.

so when i measure voltage at the 2 wires on the starter. i should get 0 when the key is off and around 12 or so when the key is on?
With the key turned to ON(III), you should test for battery voltage at the Blu/Blk wire in the connector for the clutch interlock switch. If you find voltage, then proceed with the tests below.

There are two wires attached to the starter, a large Blk wire for the starter motor and a smaller Blk/Wht wire for the starter solenoid. The Blk wire should read battery voltage under all conditions. The Blk/Wht wire should read battery voltage when the clutch pedal is depressed and the key is turned to ON(III). Post the results of these two voltage measurements.
 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
okay tried to test wires. On the multimeter setting i put it on DCV 20. is that the correct setting for the meter?

with that setting, i put postive needle on large blk wire and , negative to a ground it showed 12.67
the same way i tested small blk/wht wire, nothing with or without the clutch pushed in key turned ect...
now i did have a battery charger hooked up to it. because battery is dead. but i think with the charger hooked up i have good power.
 

RonJ

Banned
okay tried to test wires. On the multimeter setting i put it on DCV 20. is that the correct setting for the meter?

with that setting, i put postive needle on large blk wire and , negative to a ground it showed 12.67
the same way i tested small blk/wht wire, nothing with or without the clutch pushed in key turned ect...
now i did have a battery charger hooked up to it. because battery is dead. but i think with the charger hooked up i have good power.
You used the correct multimeter setting. Okay, no power is getting to the starter solenoid from the interlock switch. Now test for voltage at the Blu/Blk wire in the interlock connector with the key turned to ON(III).
 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
okay the switch i tested has a pinkish and black, And now im willing to bet that it was Not the Clutch Interlock Switch? There are 2 things under there that look like it. one of which is further up the clutch pedal closer to the firewall. is that one the clutch switch or is the lower one (easy to get to) the clutch switch. anyways the lower one tested 12 volts on the pink wire.
 

RonJ

Banned
okay the switch i tested has a pinkish and black, And now im willing to bet that it was Not the Clutch Interlock Switch?

This is the cruise control switch.


There are 2 things under there that look like it. one of which is further up the clutch pedal closer to the firewall. is that one the clutch switch or is the lower one (easy to get to) the clutch switch. anyways the lower one tested 12 volts on the pink wire.

Go higher up. For reference, look at the diagram that I posted. The interlock switch has a Blu/Blk wire and a Blk wire.
 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I Tested the correct clutch interlock switch Not the damn cruise control switch. Jumped the connector and BAM we have ignition. Thank you alot RonJ. I'm so pissed that I tested all that stuff because I got confused on what was what. But Thanks again man. If you were near by, I'd buy you a beer.
 

RonJ

Banned
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I Tested the correct clutch interlock switch Not the damn cruise control switch. Jumped the connector and BAM we have ignition. Thank you alot RonJ. I'm so pissed that I tested all that stuff because I got confused on what was what. But Thanks again man. If you were near by, I'd buy you a beer.
:thumbs up
 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
okay, one more question. To Bypass that switch for good, I can cut the plug off, and twist those 2 wires together, tape it up, wire nut, heat shrink, ect. And That will be good? They want like $50 bucks for that switch. On a different note, the cruise control doesn't work quite right. it will set but will shut off by itself after a few seconds. Is this due to the cruise control clutch switch? because even when the clutch is not depressed. the arm that would depress the button on the cruise control switch when the pedal is up. has a little hole in it. so the button is never pressed in, no matter the postion off the clutch pedal. is there supposed to be something that fits into that hole? you can see what im talking about in that picture on page 1.
 

RonJ

Banned
The interlock switch is a safety device, so I would not recommend that you bypass it.

Did you test the interlock switch? One possibility is that the interlock and cruise control switches are fine but just need to be adjusted:

 

Cr8zyDrifter

New Member
5+ Year Member
The interlock switch is a safety device, so I would not recommend that you bypass it. My 240sx has the clutch switch bypassed so I'm used to it. but still saftey first

Did you test the interlock switch? No, I just jumped the connector, I'll test the actuall switch before I decide to bypass.
Is there supposed to be something in the circled area that hits the button on the cruise control swtich? something in place of that black hole?

 
Last edited:


Top