Battery is not charging - Civic 2012

[JosephMouhanna]

I bought this car new in 2011. I've driven it without any issues for the past 3.5 years. The first time I had an issue with the battery was a few weeks ago. I parked, switched the engine off and took the keys out of the ignition. I pushed the driver window button to roll it down and it did. I sat in the car for about a half hour and when I tried to start the car, the starter would not kick in.

I called AAA, the guys showed up, tested the battery and said it was OK, then he jump started is using a portable battery pack. It started immediately. I drove it about half hour on city streets, then parked at home. The next morning, it started fine and then I drove it 15 minutes until I reached my office (15 minutes on city streets). Later on, it would not start. I had someone give me a jump and it started immediately. I drove it home, took the battery out (not super easy) and charged it. The car started out fine. I used it a few days (probably a total of about 10 starts), but now it's giving me signs that the battery is not charging (starter stuttering, barely kicking in).

Any idea what I'm looking at here?

 

[Esotericimage]

might still be under warranty...

Could be corrosion on the cable or could be some parasitic draw..

Pick up a multi meter and read this

Battery Drain Parasitic Draw Testing

 

[JosephMouhanna]

The cables are squeaky clean, I've already checked for that. The car has no modifications done to it (stock radio system that's been off anyway). I will do the digital meter test though.

 

[Esotericimage]

Then use the meter on the fuse box and touch each connection and see what is causing the draw..

(that might have been mentioned in the link, but i didnt read the link)

 

[codesmith29]

The right way is the best way ,dnt guess or assume

 

[j.d.m playa]

If you have changed out your old battery, and there is sign of your new battery not charging. I would look into the alternator....

 

[Esotericimage]

When this happened to me, it turned out there was a little corrosion on the Alt cable.

If the Alt is bad, Make sure to have the new one checked in the store before leaving.

Had an Advance Auto employee get irritated when I asked to have it checked, turned out it was bad right out of the box and he was surprised. Then I asked to test my old one and it worked. This is how I figured that little bit of corrosion had caused the problem. Now I use Die Electric Grease on all my connections exposed to the air. (I live close to the beach)

So do yourself a favor and save some wrench time and have it checked.

 

[twombs2530]

A lot of people are having this issue with civics and accords... including me.. I will get to the bottom of it, just a matter of fitting in the time to putz with it.. I'm an electrical apprentice, so I have enough resources, a ac/DC multimeter rated for 800 amps dc, and a 12 si coupe w/nav that I just replaced the factory battery on Monday @ 40k... I've been driving with headlights on to keep a good charge, daily 35mi hwy 1 way commute.. probably had to jump the last battery 10x.. this past sunday at 6am i was so mad i punched the little rear side window when it didn't start... and im a rather layed back person; and its my baby..
this problem sounds to be manufacturer/program error... from the amount of people with this problem. My Radar shows voltage so I can tell what's going on while driving when turning accessories on and off... will get back with results when I get to running tests. Problem is I work 3 jobs 6/7 days a week... hard to find time and energy and patience.
One piece of info is with no load alt charges 12.6,7v ; radar says 12.1,2v . With load (Everything) 14.5v ; radar says 14.1,2 ;
System check done at advance auto..
Car is getting a strut replaced from an accident @ Honda, service advisor is nice and helpful, his tech is smart so he said he'll check a few things.