No Crank / No Start

[Danniwrae1995]

I have no crank no start situation. It has a brand new starter in. Please help if you have any ideas as to what's wrong. Looks like the clutch stafy switch is still working you can hear the fuel pump start when you turn key but thats about it.please help

 

[dancam]

I have no crank no start situation. It has a brand new starter in. Please help if you have any ideas as to what's wrong. Looks like the clutch stafy switch is still working you can hear the fuel pump start when you turn key but thats about it.please help

check your fuses and relays. Was it working before the starter was replaced or did you replace it because this happened?


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[Danniwrae1995]

Replaced the starter because this happened

 

[XpL0d3r]

I took these posts out of another thread and started your own. Not sure if you have a 6th gen (96-00 year Civic), so please provide as many details as possible for the most help.

@Danniwrae1995

Thanks!

 

[HeX]

Check your chassis grounds, such as the the one off the battery and the engine ground. The same thing happened to.me ladt month, all due to a repositioned ground the made contact but not enough to bare metal. You can test that by using a junper cable only on the negative (black) terminal to an engine bolt, perhaps the distributor mounting bolt. Leave the position (red) disconnected. If it starts right up then its a bad ground.

Good luck. I hope its thst simple of an issue.

 

[Restotech]

Not sure of details on the car, but check the clutch switch. There are 2 on the clutch mount bracket. The lower one is easy to see and is just for cruise control cancel. The upper one is for the starter. It's very difficult to see and access. It is common for the "button" that snaps into the clutch pedal itself, and makes contact to the switch, to deteriorate over time.

 

[daperez13]

Use a voltmeter to check the voltage on the starter's solenoid, with the ignition in the "off" position (should read 0v) and then on the "on" position (should read close to 12v). If you're getting some voltage but not close to 12v, it's probably your battery. If you get nothing, then check the fuse and relay. As a last option, you can remove the starter and connect it directly to a 12v source and see if it works. Be careful when handling the starter outside the vehicle. You may be able to do this with it still mounted on the motor but it's a bit more difficult and somewhat dangerous.

 

[nd4sped]

Use a voltmeter to check the voltage on the starter's solenoid, with the ignition in the "off" position (should read 0v) and then on the "on" position (should read close to 12v). If you're getting some voltage but not close to 12v, it's probably your battery. If you get nothing, then check the fuse and relay. As a last option, you can remove the starter and connect it directly to a 12v source and see if it works. Be careful when handling the starter outside the vehicle. You may be able to do this with it still mounted on the motor but it's a bit more difficult and somewhat dangerous.

This is a good reply, it will test the entire circuit for the starter. before you do all of this always test the battery voltage and tightness of the terminals. Too many times I had customers towed/rolled into our shop (back when I worked on cars for a living) with these problems and it was loose or corroded terminals. Keep in mind that even if you read ~12.6v this doesnt mean its in good condition. There are 6 cells in a car battery and they provide the voltage but if the cells are bad/weak/etc they wont provide enough amperage to the starter. You can easily test this with an ammeter over the battery cable to the starter.

Verifying continuity and or voltage (depending how you decide to measure with your gauge) between the switch and starter. If you get a high continuity reading or INFINITE then there is high or absolute resistance. At that point move on to the relay, the relay is very easy to test.

Here is a nice video I found on youtube that pretty much explains what to do.