Died on Highway now cranks but no start?

[Meadlock87]

Was driving my 2002 civic 1.7l at highway speeds from south Carolina to north dakota it up and stalled out on the highway right by an off ramp in illinois. I pushed it to a nearby hotel where I'm staying now all it will do it crank but won't start. Any ideas what I can check how to go about diagnosing? Or what it could be?

 

[HeX]

Have you done any diagnosing or inspecting of the ignition system? Checked the rotor in the distributor cap (if you have them)? Checked the ground cables? Checked the spark plug cables? Do you have any Check-engine codes?

 

[Meadlock87]

Have you done any diagnosing or inspecting of the ignition system? Checked the rotor in the distributor cap (if you have them)? Checked the ground cables? Checked the spark plug cables? Do you have any Check-engine codes?

I've actually taken my hei stark tester out and put it in the coil on plugs- spsrk plug and I've gotten no spark reading from it. Before you ask I did ground the spark tester just to put that out there.I went out aswell and took the top of the timing cover off and to make sure the timing belt didn't snap or come off. Because if the belt breaks then the valves may end up damaged from it being an interference engine. I did notice that some of the ribs on the timing belt have long stretches in it that ribs have been worn flat. To clarify there are 6" or better patches on the belt where it has been worn the splines in belt down to nothing. So when it rotates im assuming its not engaging the camshaft and crankshaft for that matter.. So im also assuming its not letting the crank and cam sensor tell the ignition to spark? Am i hitting a rabbit trail or am i on the right track?

 

[HeX]

If I understood you correctly, their are worn off grooves on the timing belt. If so, then thats your problem.

 

[Meadlock87]

If I understood you correctly, their are worn off grooves on the timing belt. If so, then thats your problem.

Yeah you understood that correctly. So the timing belt missing long patches of its grooves can be the cause of my no spark situation?

 

[HeX]

I didnt really understand what you said about testing, but if the belt isnt turning the camshaft then theres nothing to create a timing effect. It would help if you went back and edited your previous posts and correct your errors.

 

[Meadlock87]

I didnt really understand what you said about testing, but if the belt isnt turning the camshaft then theres nothing to create a timing effect. It would help if you went back and edited your previous posts and correct your errors.

The only thing I said about testing outside of finding out about the groves being missing in my timing belt was- I tested for spark with my hei spark tester on the coil on plug sparks plug boots and that before you asked if I correctly grounded the tester in order to properly get a reading-that I did that. Ive read several post about this mistake being made.. also my questions are because this is my first honda. I've normally worked on v8 ford and chevys. I've rebuilt several of them. But when it comes to variable valve timing and all the differences in the this interference engine and a ford 302. My normal procedures are somewhat the same but slightly different in these area's. . If that makes sense.

 

[Meadlock87]

I didnt really understand what you said about testing, but if the belt isnt turning the camshaft then theres nothing to create a timing effect. It would help if you went back and edited your previous posts and correct your errors.

Can I ask one more question? With the timing belt losing long stretches of its grooves. Am in danger of it possibly bending its valves?

 

[Restotech]

Can I ask one more question? With the timing belt losing long stretches of its grooves. Am in danger of it possibly bending its valves?

Yes.

 

[Meadlock87]

Yes.

Okay so it seems my options are out a new timing component system on it then do a compression test and go from there? Right? Then worst case scenario take the head to have a valve job done or buy a head from a junk yard and have a vavle job dobe

 

[Restotech]

Yes, however to align the cam without bending valves you need too loosen all the rockers or remove the cam. At which point it would be best to do a leak down test on all 4 cylinders. You will most likely have leakage at the intake valves. This will save you from doing a timing belt if you have to pull the head anyway. If the leak down test shows good then you can set the crank and cam to tdc #1 and put on a new belt.

 

[Meadlock87]

Yes, however to align the cam without bending valves you need too loosen all the rockers or remove the cam. At which point it would be best to do a leak down test on all 4 cylinders. You will most likely have leakage at the intake valves. This will save you from doing a timing belt if you have to pull the head anyway. If the leak down test shows good then you can set the crank and cam to tdc #1 and put on a new belt.

Okay now that I read that, it really makes perfect sense. I can't rorate the cam and crank to align them without furthering whatever damage is already done. So with that said. While my timing component set is on order and as I wait for its arrival. I need to go out and pull the head off.

 

[Restotech]

I would, but if you wanna be sure, preform a leak down test.

 

[Meadlock87]

Well thanks for everything that makes more sense than just an old school compression test. 100% more accurate doing leak down test. But believe me ill be posting the results. I'm sure ill be needing more of your help. I do have one other question. I haven't bought a haynes manual yet so while I have the timing cover off would you be able to tell me how to test the cam and crank sensors while I'm in this area before I get to testing compressions and almost certainly start pulling the head?

 

[HeX]

I'm pretty certain you can find a free downloadable online PDF version of the service manual.