endo617's 98 Civic LX Project: Balance

mportedcivicsi

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You probably posted that previously...haha. I have that CRS thing, so please forgive me! But very nice LSD. My wife had one in her last Si. It was a great unit, just we hated the 4.7FD that was paired. Much prefer the 4.4 for any street driving. Should be a nice and smooth install!
 

endo617

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You probably posted that previously...haha. I have that CRS thing, so please forgive me! But very nice LSD. My wife had one in her last Si. It was a great unit, just we hated the 4.7FD that was paired. Much prefer the 4.4 for any street driving. Should be a nice and smooth install!
I hope it's smooth lol, wish I could afford a 4.9FD from GearX.
 


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Today weather was amazing, took full advantage. I FINALLY found my noise coming from the front end when I hit bumps. I used a 96 Cvic CX front K member and reused my 98 CIvic LX rack and pinion. Seems that the 96 rack diameter is bigger than the 98, so the rack bushing had slight play in it.

Transmission came out easy


Clean and ready


Mfactory LSD mated to it's new home


Sealed and ready to go with Honda Bond and getting filled with Honda MTF.
 

mportedcivicsi

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Are you going to add a friction modifier to the Honda MTF? Personally, I would use either the GM synchromesh or Amsoil synchromesh. I run the Amsoil in mine, and did in my wife's Si. Honda MTF is great stuff, but I had chatter with only the Honda stuff in there. Pretty much if you leave the OEM trans parts for aftermarket, you generally need to change fluid. Just something to keep in mind.
 


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Are you going to add a friction modifier to the Honda MTF? Personally, I would use either the GM synchromesh or Amsoil synchromesh. I run the Amsoil in mine, and did in my wife's Si. Honda MTF is great stuff, but I had chatter with only the Honda stuff in there. Pretty much if you leave the OEM trans parts for aftermarket, you generally need to change fluid. Just something to keep in mind.
I was under the impression Friction Modifier was used for clutch type LSD's and this one is Helical.
 

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Bought a used Wilwood 4 piston kit from Ebay for short money



The catch is i need to downgrade to civic spindles but like my boy said to me, im not doing endurance racing. If I need the bearings replaced I have time. Ill be installing next year, this was a test fit only


Bought new pads and pad retainers

 

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My track day is this Sunday, but I started collecting for next year, pick these up for the low and super clean and 8-10k miles on them. Need to change the rates but waiting for my track day to decided is to stay the same or change them. Started talking to a legitimate shop called RaceTek to rebuild my engine block, hopefully the car performance the way I've envisioned when I first taught of racing it.

 
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endo617

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After 3 years of Autocross I finally attended my first track event. I was a simple transition because the way the course is you don't need to really shift. I topped 3rd on one straight but wasn't really worth shifting because there was a chicane right after. Took little time to learn that using the whole track in some areas very was beneficial. Can't wait to start attending other tracks in my area.


Waiting for a point by from a miata, they kicked a bunch a mud on my windshield.



Getting ready for winter mode



R1R's are all put away for next year.

 

mportedcivicsi

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I was under the impression Friction Modifier was used for clutch type LSD's and this one is Helical.
Well, for the helical, no modifier, but not OEM fluid...
Via mFactory...
Oil: Regular 75w90 Synthetic Oil for Street/Spirited use. Heavier 75w140 for Race Applications. Recommended brands include Torco SGO and Redline NS. Limited-slip Friction Modifier must NOT be used, as Torsen (read as helical) style LSD's rely on friction in order to function.

I can say that OEM is no where near the weights they recommend. OEM MTF is closer to a 5w-30, thus the emergency use recommendation...but drain and replace ASAP, for stock applications.

Nice brakes! I'd order a seal kit and rebuild them before install also. Better to go in fresh. I bought that kit with misinformation and sold it to a buddy as it wasn't for the Si/EX brake system, but the lower. And I didn't want to deal with downgrading. Luckily, a buddy had a CRX that it fit, so he grabbed it from me =)

Great combo on the suspension! Are you going to have the shocks revalved for the spring change?

Now to go and watch the video =)
 

endo617

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Well, for the helical, no modifier, but not OEM fluid...
Via mFactory...
Oil: Regular 75w90 Synthetic Oil for Street/Spirited use. Heavier 75w140 for Race Applications. Recommended brands include Torco SGO and Redline NS. Limited-slip Friction Modifier must NOT be used, as Torsen (read as helical) style LSD's rely on friction in order to function.

I can say that OEM is no where near the weights they recommend. OEM MTF is closer to a 5w-30, thus the emergency use recommendation...but drain and replace ASAP, for stock applications.

Nice brakes! I'd order a seal kit and rebuild them before install also. Better to go in fresh. I bought that kit with misinformation and sold it to a buddy as it wasn't for the Si/EX brake system, but the lower. And I didn't want to deal with downgrading. Luckily, a buddy had a CRX that it fit, so he grabbed it from me =)

Great combo on the suspension! Are you going to have the shocks revalved for the spring change?

Now to go and watch the video =)
I'll reach out to Synchrotech and see what they think for my current setup.

Brakes were super cheap, I'll be geting new blank rotors and Porterfield R4-1 pads for them. Good call on the rebuild, I should since I have the time.

I'm just going to use 550/450 rates, they can handle that as is, but I'll be looking at rebuild and revalve when they start to go.
 

mportedcivicsi

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Haha...I've got a couple buddies that DE K24's in their Si's. They swear that I'll change my mind when I drive their cars, but I don't see it happening. We have a TSX manual, and I absolutely hate it. If it were my daily, it would have been sold years ago. I freaking hate K series...lol. I'd rather B swap the TSX than K swap the Si...haha.
 

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Haha...I've got a couple buddies that DE K24's in their Si's. They swear that I'll change my mind when I drive their cars, but I don't see it happening. We have a TSX manual, and I absolutely hate it. If it were my daily, it would have been sold years ago. I freaking hate K series...lol. I'd rather B swap the TSX than K swap the Si...haha.
LOL I feel you, but for endurance racing the K is the way. I love me B's though, can't justify the money pit to install a proper track K swap.

Update: I'm super satisfied with the job Stok Custom Coating did on my calipers. All new seals are in, need to polish the fluid flow spacers. Crisis averted, I almost bought the wrong wilwood rotors. I was going to get blank with 30 vein count, but for $10 more I can get the Wilwood GT that's High Carbon and 72 vein count. I also decided on pads, going with Porterfield R4-1, they have a decent low temp friction and good heat range.



I got a good deal on the Hero 3 I couldn't pass up.

 

endo617

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Started attacking those nasty flow spacers and cruddy pistons.



Brass wire brush works great at removing the crud but DAMN that 800 grit scuffing pad was awesome for wet sanding.



This were stuff but 80 grit and some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish worked wonders.



almost done going to hit them again later with some 800 then 1500.




Not final assembly,just wanted to see how they looked. Definitely polishing the leter.


 

mportedcivicsi

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LOL I feel you, but for endurance racing the K is the way. I love me B's though, can't justify the money pit to install a proper track K swap.
I'll disagree until the day I die...lol. NEVER K...haha.

Calipers are looking good!
 


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