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You need to remove the headliner and see what you are working with. It's not hard you just have to pop all the plastic panels off that are in the way. If the cardboard backing is fine then you just, have a decent amount of work ahead of you. More or less you need a wire brush (bigger better)...

That is not correct. Air only enters when no fluid is present. Since brake fluid is heavier then air, it will displace the air from the reservoir during bleeding.

In theory, should only need to bleed it, if it ran dry.

I run hawk HPS and BC coil overs on all 3 of my cars.

Rods aren't a wear item normally. Just change the bearings and reuse them.

Check your cap and spark plug wires. few different ways you can go about testing, but a simple way is to just check it in the dark.

I had a problem like that once. It's some place on the forums here. My car would stumble when cold almost like it was out of fuel. The idle would surge up and down ( I added videos). Everyone said it couldn't be an the primary sensor, it wasn't possible and so on. They even challenged me into...

I never really looked into why it happens. I just know it does, I've replaced a few regulators on the cars I've had and my friends because the window just falls down in the door. It's not fun to have to buy the regulators, but you won't have any more problems for a long time once you do.

N1 is super loud. HKS is nice. It has a sound unlike all the other fart cans. Megan is a rip off of the HKS but sounds decent. Megan is the lowest quality of the 3.

Could bring coolant but water is a lot cheaper. If it gets to the point you need to add much of either you have a problem you'll have to address ASAP which in most cases will involve losing what you put in anyways. It's just a temp fix to keep you from getting stranded on the side of a road.

Probably fine. A car at speed is under very little stress, plus air is rammed into the engine bay so it stays a nice decent temp. I would suggest bringing a gallon of water just incase. Check the upper radiator hose and make sure it's not swollen or rock hard. Change the oil, check the tires...

Flush everything with distilled water, you can get it at your local food stores for like $1.00 or less a gallon, I normally buy a few. Then.... Depending on how anal you are. You can just drain out as much of the water as you can and refill with 50/50 which tbh I don't know how much it would...

Buy a 250cc motor cycle or scooter, they get 70+mpg. I've seen people on the Eco mod forums that have civic HX's which is the most fuel efficient of the civics of that gen and they are only in the mid 40's hypermiling. I never take my civic(98 lx) on the highway. Just traffic crawling and I...

Seems high to me. Car has been painted and looks like someone was messing with the low side of the a/c

Only on the SI's as far as I know. This why the indiglo faces were so popular for a long time.

Hoses about. 60k miles. If they are swollen, or hard they need to be changed. The flush it's self is best done with the stat removed, drain out as much coolant as you can, refill the system with distilled water then run the car with the heater on max settings. Drain and refill again with...

Yeah in stock form it's pretty much overkill. You can buy OBD scanners for your phone that can display some items. I have defi gauges in my car. They'll give a warning alarm if something is off but you have to set the parameters.

Could also be that the rack is a little loose. If they are not bolted down well they can clunk.

Civics in stock form are pretty much maxed out proformance wise when it comes to tuning. By the time you get the ECM chipped and have a real tune done, the total will be around $600-1000 for maybe 5whp. You will never feel that little of a Whp gain.

3hours of crusing is nothing compaired to 3 hours of stop and go.