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I just noticed now that in key on engine off the tps reads .4v – .5v which is good. I can sweep it to wot and it climbs up and reads 4.5v which is good. Now with engine running. I read .4-.5v at idle and when I barely crack the throttle it goes to .3v than .2v for a second than the engine bogs...

Okay, I just swapped in a jdm b18c type r engine 98 spec all stock with oem p73. I knew once I started it it was going to throw a mil. Only because I did not have the oem primary o2 sensor (and only o2 sensor) plugged into the exhaust stream. Anyway a few days went by I was messing around with...

Thanks!

Okay got the pictures larger.

Well considering how well the engine was doing before the dropped valve was caused by me over revving the crap out of it accidentally. I would say so i didn't upgrade my valve train like I was told. Thanks for the welcome!

Can anyone share any tips on resizing these photos? Never posted pics on here.

If I knew how I would haha. I tried but was unsuccessful. I will try again.

Heres a video of my first succesful build. This is the one that dropped a valve in hole 3. It lasted about 4-5k miles. I have a video of it running but its at night and i will take another video and upload it later but during the day.

Ya know I was wondering. Does anyone how much better the engine will perform with the 3" exhaust as opposed to the oem size. Which I think would be 2.5".

Listening (well sorta..lol) to my instructor talk about caterpillars g3600 engines cooling system. I am in school at Peoria, Illinois. :). To put this engine in perspective. It has 21.2liters per cyl. (1294cc) it comes in inline 6 or 8. Or vee 12,16 or 18. Lots of power.

Ya definatly. I will post pics as soon as I get a chance. Hopefully later today. I can tell you one thing. I want different wheels. I have gun metal motegis mr7's I think lol idk.. I want bronze rays. But they are waaay out of budget. Haha

Hey guys. I just wanted to mention that I just recently installed my b18c type r engine and tranny. It's a 98 spec. It came with someheaders that are heat wrapped. But I have no Idea what brand they are. They are a big tubed 4-2-1. It is replacing my ls vtec turbo that I dropped a valve in...

I just went through the WHOLE thread last night. Good job on a clean car! Makes me wish I had done a thread like this too for mine. I had many ups and downs on my build. But Ohhhh well haha. Keep up the good work.

I would think it would be more benificial on a performance perspective if you get other upgrades to get the usefulness out of it. Like cams, I/h/e ect...but it will look better at the very least. That's my opinion. Haha

Frost white. Nh-538 it's clean.

How does it die? Like real quick and sudden or gradually slows to shut off. Does it usually happen at idle? Check the return line hoses for the fuel regulator. Could be stopped or restricted? Did you put any additives in the fuel?

No I didn't get pictures of it. I wish I did... It would've made a nice DIY. But it is literally remove and replace. I would say the hardest part would be working on the door harnesses. Although there is some pictures online that can help. The service manual is key to this project. But like I...

I would think you can make it work for a hatch back. Just have having extra wire length would be the issue. Now that's me guessing without looking at the hatch electrical system. This conversion is not for everyone haha but for me it was. I like to tear down the car and put it all back...

Lol no not really. Especially not if you already have your motor swapped in.

This is a pretty stright foward task. This was my semi diy for cruise control conversion on a dx but i just gloified it lol. Its simply remove and replace but its a great deal of work. To many it will not be worth it but to others it might. So keep that in mind. I did it on my 96 dx coupe...