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There are lots of spots all along the engine that could leak. Usual suspects include the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket, main seals, camshaft seals. Could be the transmission, except that's on the right side of the car.

Google 'low silicate antifreeze,' or go with a product like Zerex antifreeze coolant. (this: http://valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/40 or maybe this: http://valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105) I...

Are you talking about the spindle nut that holds each CV axle to the wheel hub, or something on the transmission itself? I'll assume the spindle nut, and say, it's a huge pain. I think the last time I did it I wound up sticking a large screwdriver in the brake rotor to stop it against the brake...

Yeah, the racing one is the blue one, right? Then, yeah, OEM pump and timing belt tensioner. Which reminds me, since you're draining all the coolant anyway, make sure when you fill it back up that you go with a coolant that contains no/low silicates. (Regular green stuff often contain these...

You might want to double check whether you bought a Gates belt, or a Gates Timing Belt kit, which includes the belt, tensioner, and a water pump. The reason I ask is just because you paid about what I paid for the kit... Unless you plan on pulling the cylinder head off with the exhaust and...

Assuming oil sprayed all over the place, you've got a pretty decent mess, and likely have oil all over between the engine and the firewall, over the wiring harness, in and around the alternator. What will happen over time is that the oily surfaces will cling to dust and dirt and form a nasty...

If it's the same part, then it should be pretty much plug and play.

Really depends on what you have and what you bought. For example, the ECUs are set up differently for automatic vs manual transmissions, or vtec vs non-vtec. And this isn't even getting into OBD0/1/2a/2b differences...

Your D16Y8 engine's cylinder head bolt is OE part no. 90008-PZ1-003. Quoted from another thread elsewhere: y5/y7/y8 bolts: 10x120.5 1.25 threads P/N: 90008-PZ1-003 So, you've a stripped thread in your cylinder head bolt hole on the block? Bummer. Here's a kit for that situation...

Check that your catalytic converter isn't clogged, assuming you have one. :)

I use it on my 98 Civic CX hatch 5MT, my 96 SAAB 900 SE turbo hatch 5MT, and my '10 Mazda3 s Sport hatch 6MT. Should work with any OBDII capable ECU, though some cars will provide more PIDs and functions than others.

Even if it's foregone that you have cylinder head or valve damage, it's hard to be sure how big of a job repairing it might be without some sense of whether it's a problem in one or more cylinders. Time for a compression test. Depending on the sound, it might be valve lashing / tappet noise...

It's not too surprising you would have needed to replace the front HO2S and the catalytic converter together. A poorly running primary HO2S can throw the air:fuel mixture off, and this can damage or foul the catalytic converter. I just went through this with a 2000 EX, whose catalytic coverter...

My D16Y7 started to post misfire codes when the fuel filter clogged (still on factory fuel filter at 215K at the time), but only while accelerating @ WOT and above 4-5K RPM (it felt like a fuel cut). But it seems like you're on the right track to suspect the fuel delivery and ignition systems.

If something causes an SRS code, it may not self-reset even if the problem was transient and the initial cause has passed. There's a simple method to reset the SRS module (the 'two paperclip on SRS diag port' method). If the warning light doesn't return after that, you're good. If it does...

Timing belt could have hopped, especially if it was worn or had stretched with age. The cams might resist motion if the valves interfere with the pistons at the top of their stroke. If they're bent, they likely won't seat well enough to seal, which a compression test will detect, once...

I'm not sure from your description if the cornering has much to do with it, or if it's loading the engine. The AC cooling the engine is counterintuitive to me, but it would make sense if you meant the cabin heater. The next time you hit the twisties, maybe pull over and check the coolant...

It's not a big deal to take the plastic bumper cover off if you can't fix it while on and fiddling with the misaligned corner. You might be able to correct the gap between the hood and front grille by opening the hood and adjusting the hood rest stopper, which can twist up and down to fine...

When my civic's headgasket went at 210K in 2010, I was faced with the realization it was no longer a new or even a middle-aged car. I wanted to start buying tools and doing maintenance, but I also realized I couldn't expect it to work as a DD. I looked around for another car, and eventually...

Usually when this happens, you get a check engine light and it's part of a known issue for which Honda issued the following TSB: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/civic/x99-029e.pdf Since you didn't mention a CEL, I'm not so sure, but figured I'd toss it out.