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Since you said the CEL is on, check the code. Have you cleaned your FITV? It's the same process as the IACV and is attached to the bottom of the throttle body. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Lol. The add says the floor isn't the best. Most awesome understatement ever.

Yeah, I like Teins, but they tend to be bouncy if you set the shock rate too low. Skunk2's have less adjustability but don't have that problem. F&F's are pretty good for the price but bounce a little but have the adjustability of the Teins for cheaper.

Coilovers will be a little bit more expensive, but it's a better investment than a shock and spring setup. If you had the choice, get coilovers. But make sure they are full coilovers.

If you don't want a bumpy ride, get the Skunk2 shocks and springs. Unless you want to figure out what spring rates go with what shock rates for the vehicle weight. If you go with one company that makes the whole set, you'll be better matched than a Mix-N-Match system.

Is there a CEL on? What do you mean that it doesn't gain speed like it should? Is it slower than expected? Will it reach a certain RPM then not go any higher? Does it only happen at certain Throttle Positions or only under certain circumstances?

Lol. My bad, yeah, I had it ass backwards. Sorry sohclubkid. :(

Looks good. Will need a lip to look better.

@ sohclubkid I think you have your dry and wet systems mixed up. Dry is where nitrous is injected with fuel directly into the intake ports where the injectors go. Wet is injected with the fuel somewhere in the intake track. It is safer to have a higher dry shot than it is to have a high wet...

^x2. Although really good engines, the engine you are thinking of putting in are a bit under-powered for their weight. Engine's like the F20 DOHC VTEC and the H-Series engines can feel more like a burden because of their weight. This coupled with gas consumption for the power output would put...

Yes, 17's are pretty big and will rub. 16's are the biggest I'd go with.

In theory, the D15B7 with just a stock Z6 head will have a higher compression ratio. I think it will be around 9.95, whereas the D16Z6 engine makes 9.2, so it should make more power if you use an Si tranny.

Yeah, I did, not sure how much came from the just the throttlebody because I did the port and polish of the head, port matched the header, intake manifold, and throttlebody all at once. Gained about 12 after tune from the previous tune and the AFR's were a lot more stable after. This was on a D16Z6.

Front Bumper can't come off without your hood up. What is exactly wrong? Do you pull the lever and nothing happens? Is there resistance? Try jacking up the Drivers-Front side and taking off the wheel. Along the upper part of the fender, there will be black sheathed cable that comes out, that's...

I've gone as far as port-matching and tapering my throttle bodies, but never as far as a full bore job.

It won't let you post because the image source has the word "f***" in it.

The actuator rod shouldn't be messed with. It's primary duty is to transmit movement from the diaphragm to the wastegate. The reason why it's threaded and can be adjusted is so that one actuator can be mounted on different combinations of turbos. Shortening the rod will put undesired stress on...

I think the D-Hook on his CF hood is broken. This is the part of the hood that latches the hood down. As for the D-Hook. There's a dozen different variations depending on the manufacturer. Some are metal while others are just rolled and resigned fiberglass or cf. Some are molded in and some are...

Lol. I read the other posts that MugenRR has posted, and it's pretty understandable why Shaaaft just gave you the shaft. On another note, you might get a reply if you fix the image link.

If you lower your car too much, you'll need at short travel shocks. A decent set of short travel shocks will be already break your $200 goal by at least $60-80. Like 95coupeWI said, lowering springs are cheap and most likely under your $200 limit, but any lowering spring that lowers your car...