'00 EM1 Revival.....again.. H2B!

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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So this is probably my third build thread? There was a point at which I was going to turbo the B16, swap in a K24a2, even considered a k20a. Although the K series is very appealing and powerful I think I am going to do an H2B setup. Recently (yesterday), the B16A in my EM1 went boom. The motor is seized and I haven't had a chance to look into it and tear it apart yet, but it is most likely due to stock valvetrain and stage 2 all motor kelford cams along with revving to 8.2K redline hahaha. I just started looking into an H2B setup and I am now planning on picking up either an F20B or an H23A to drop into the civic. More leaning towards an F20B because I am a little rev happy :lol:

On to the current mod list:

Function and Form Type 1 Coilovers
Skunk2 Lower Control Arms
USDM ITR 22mm rear sway bar
ASR Subframe Brace
Kosei Direzza RSC 16" wheels
ARP Extended lugs on rear
5mm spacers on rear
EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors
Hawk HPS brake pads

Yonaka Catback Exhaust
P72 ECU Tuned on Neptune with 8.2k gas cutoff and adjustable two step
F1 Racing 9.75lb Flywheel
Innovative Motor Mounts with 75A bushings
Ram air intake (Soon to be AEM CAI with water bypass valve)

K Tuned adjustable shifter
PW:JDM Shift Knob
PW:JDM Engine Bay Dress Up Kit
Hood Dampers
Custom Crown Royal Shift Boot

Current goals will be dropping the F20B with the H2B kit with current Si tranny (190k miles) just to get it running. Then I/H/E and possibly a bigger throttle body and intake manifold ported to the TB. Then dyno tune and run it at the local autox until I can save up for an ITR trans for that LSD. It will more than likely be a stock motor until I either get bored with it or beat it up too much.

Any ideas/suggestions on H23A over F20B? I'm open to any comments. Wanna call me a ricer for blowing up my B16? Go for it! hahaha.

Most recent picture I have

 

Bhikku

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Ricer! kidding...

looks like you have a clean setup, not a fan of the mustache lip, but to each their own.
 


Tig.

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why didn't you uprgrade the valvetrain? i would go with the H, unless you plan on keeping the F20 stock. I've read they don't make power without forced induction. i'm interested to see how this build goes tho, good luck :popcorn:
 

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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Ricer! kidding...

looks like you have a clean setup, not a fan of the mustache lip, but to each their own.
:cool: The mustache lip is just because the lip had so many rock chips on it. It used to be digital camo duct taped lol.

why didn't you uprgrade the valvetrain? i would go with the H, unless you plan on keeping the F20 stock. I've read they don't make power without forced induction. i'm interested to see how this build goes tho, good luck :popcorn:
I bought the B16A already "rebuilt" with the stage 2 cams, didn't feel like taking the chance of dropping a valve by upgrading it without pulling the head and I really didn't want to have to pull the head off...because then I would have wanted to rebuild it (since it already went through a LOT of oil) and it was too much money at the time.

And the F20 seems to be the easier of the H2B setups to swap in. Don't have to worry about a resistor box for the injectors and most of the wiring is simple.
 


CHILD

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Id go H over the F20b. The H makes more torque and the power comes sooner. Might as well get more for your money. Plus aftermarket parts are easier to come by for the H.
 

doosua

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Nice keep us updated, Im interested on how this build will turn out. I do understand the high reving part but you wont get the torque and power of an H. Also what kit are you getting?
 

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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Id go H over the F20b. The H makes more torque and the power comes sooner. Might as well get more for your money. Plus aftermarket parts are easier to come by for the H.
Yeah I agree, but I'm still confused about the difference of the H22A and H23A. Seems like the H23A is more powerful and cheaper?..I was looking at the H22A euro-R from one source and it was like $2200 for the long block I believe...

Nice keep us updated, Im interested on how this build will turn out. I do understand the high reving part but you wont get the torque and power of an H. Also what kit are you getting?
I'm gonna be putting in an order to QSD here soon to pick up their H2B kit since I'm swapping it into an EK. They seem to be the most popular option.
 

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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Ok, so after a bit more research I believe I am going to pick up an H23A Bluetop longblock. From what I've read they rated the H23A at a lower HP than the redtop, but when mated with a 5-Speed tranny I'll be sitting at a higher HP rating than the H22A Euro-R Redtop. This is what confuses me because the Euro-R Redtops cost more than the H23As...

I'll be placing my order with QSD this weekend.

Pics of B16A disassembly to come later today -- spoiler...found a chunk of piston in the exhaust valve and up top there was a loose valve spring.
 

CHILD

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It can just transfer the power to the wheels better with a manual transmission. Less drivetrain loss, similar to using a lightened flywheel.

With the h23a, you're going to lose top end power and pick up more midrange than the h22a, also less revs with the 23. You'll find yourself constantly looking for combinations of parts from different h series in order to mod your h23a. It's less expensive for a reason. Of course it has potential.... But all motors have potential if you get what I saying.
 

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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It can just transfer the power to the wheels better with a manual transmission. Less drivetrain loss, similar to using a lightened flywheel.

With the h23a, you're going to lose top end power and pick up more midrange than the h22a, also less revs with the 23. You'll find yourself constantly looking for combinations of parts from different h series in order to mod your h23a. It's less expensive for a reason. Of course it has potential.... But all motors have potential if you get what I saying.
Yeah I understand, and I think that'll be the best for me with autox'ing the car.

Minor update: tearing down the head as much as I can without draining the coolant and such just to see what happened. Found a chunk of piston coming out of my exhaust port..I'm no professional, but I don't think that's supposed to happen haha.

Poor thing had to be left alone for almost half a day on the side of a highway...








 

Osiris19

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Yeahhhhhhh something blew up lol. Sounds like either a valve hit the piston or it was trying to compress water and blew apart.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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Another update: finally got the civic moved over to my buddy's garage and started tearing into it. All I have left to do is pull the axles and the motors mounts then I can pull the motor. When I pulled off the intake manifold, the intake valves and inside of the manifold are bad. Pics below

It was quite an experience getting this thing onto a trailer when it can't move under its own power...we had to improvise so my mom offered her help lol





Start of the day:














End of the day:
 

jameswanser

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DAAAMMMNNN. Yeah, something went boom inside that motor. Hope at least the block can be salvaged.
 

xXDeathMaliCeXx

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DAAAMMMNNN. Yeah, something went boom inside that motor. Hope at least the block can be salvaged.
Yeah I'm hoping too. But when I emptied the oil the bottom half of the liquid in the pan was coolant...so I'm not holding out much hope.

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xXDeathMaliCeXx

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Haven't been on here in quite a while. Well this project is still going! I still have to go and buy an H23A sometime, but I've got the motor pulled and torn apart. And I picked up a QSD H2B kit.

Here's some pics of the motor torn apart, nothing is salvageable except the bolt-ons.







Lots of shiny new bolts =)
 

Wreckless Hype

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Hoooooooly s**t dude. I haven't seen a detonation like that in a while. My buddy's 460hp STi pulled a seal in and shot a rod through the side of his block. Still didn't see as much carnage spread through the block as this.

Can't wait to see what you put in the thing. Good luck!
 

young_

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Wowwwww. That is pretty intense :lol:

Welcome back man!
 


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