1994 Civic Ex with B1a2 swap NEED HELP

[aaronbrooks1989]

Ok like the title states i recently bought a 94 civic EX with a B16 swap already done for DIRT CHEAP! I am not new to the Honda Scene, but I lost my old account information and since I set it up with my military email address I couldn't retrieve the password for my old username.
Anyway, back on the subject, when I bought the car (from a mustang guy, who knows nothing about civics, or basic mechanics for that matter) It wouldn't start. He told me he thought it had bent valves. I went to pick the car up and brought a distributor along with me that I had sitting in my garage. And presto car fired right up, idles smooth and for the first 5 minutes ran like a dream. However once it warmed up from around 1500 to 3500 rpm it ran like total s***. So I babied it to get the car home quickly as he already was giving me hell saying he wasn't going to sell it to me now since I fixed it in his driveway, in about 15 minutes.
So I get the car home and pull the plugs to do a compression test which when cold was (from dizzy to fpr) 195, 200,200,205 then after it warmed up it jumped to about 230 across the board. GREAT COMPRESSION AYE. Esp given the fact i currently have less than a grand in the car.
When i pulled the plugs there was unburnt oil on the tops of the last two cylinders.....bad. I replaced the plugs, along with the plug wires, and a new valve cover gasket set. Then ran the car and its still doing the same thing. Throwing a code 16. Fuel injectors....so i got my noid light out, and all 4 cylinders flash with equal intensity. I am going to also get my voltmeter out and test the resistance on my injectors.
I have already pulled the wiring harness from the car and cleaned it up really good.....covered all bare/exposed wires with new wire loom and heat shrink. Def didn't hurt anything as there were all kinds of bare wires from the dizzy to the vtec solenoid to my IAT and the 02 sensor. But what I'm asking is if any of the Honda Gods around here have had any similar problems and what they did to fix it? I'm sure its something simple as it is a Honda haha. Sorry for such a long post, just trying to let you know what I've already done in detail

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR TIME & HELP
Aaron

so new parts:
Dizzy, Valve cover gasket set (replacing the tube seals), spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fixed wiring harness.

 

[CHILD]

Dirty clogged fuel injectors possibly.

 

[XpL0d3r]

Sounds like an issue that I had. Ended up being a bad O2 sensor.

Car will run open-loop when it's cold, meaning that it's not using the O2 sensors for any A/F readings. Once the motor hits a certain temp, it will go into closed-loop and start managing A/F based on the sensor.

 

[obracer12]

I would Check the injectors and the O2 and the very least the IACV... Had an issue when my b-series warmed up it would idle like crap and make a weird hum/whistle... IACV was malfunctioning and had a dirty cyl 2 injector....

Any CEL?

 

[aaronbrooks1989]

Thanks for the replies guys, I have been busy with work and everything. But I managed to get a Friday off. So I have been in the garage this morning working on it, and testing some things out. 2 injectors read 12 when testing the resistance, and the other 2 in the car read 11.5. I also have 3 spare injectors, and they're each in its own small plastic bag, so I went ahead and tested them as well and all 3 of them read 13.

XpL0d3r- So if I decide to just buy a new ecu....most likely from Phearable. Would I be ahead to just disable the O2 sensor? When it comes to the world of tuning, I'm not the brightest crayon in the carton. or should I leave it, and just buy a new O2 sensor? I also forgot to mention that the car is running rich right now.

obracer12- Yes, CEL has been on and it's throwing a code 16.

Also, this may not be the smartest thing to do, I'm not sure. But with the car at an idle, around 700rpms, i disconnected the 2p connectors on the fuel injectors 1 by 1 and each time the car did bog down and pick back up when i pushed the connector back on. But that still wouldn't tell me if i had a dirty or clogged injector.

 

[XpL0d3r]

Even though your injectors show proper resistance, they can still be clogged and throw off the spray pattern. The only real way to test for sure would be to use your spare injectors. Assuming they're new since they're still in bags, throw them in with one of the old ones. If the issue still persists there's a chance the one old injector you left is the culprit. Swap that one old one with one of the other ones. If the issue still occurs, either you have more than one clogged injector, or the issue isn't with them.

I would recommend just buying a new O2 sensor. To get a new ECU from Phearable you'd want to get it tuned as well -- tuning is much more expensive than an O2 sensor and you'll see minimal to no differences.

Also, Code 16 is Fuel Injector: defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector . Check the wiring for the injectors too. Since the O2 sensor wouldn't cause a Injector CEL, I'd recommend getting that code clear before moving onto the O2 sensor stuff, UNLESS you can borrow an O2 sensor from someone else as test, since that wouldn't take very long to do.

 

[aaronbrooks1989]

figured out the plugs....
IACV= blue with yellow stripe and yellow with black stripe

IAT=Green with white stripe and red with yellow stripe

Purge= Yellow with black stripe and solid red wire



xploder- I did check the wiring, i pulled the entire wiring harness out of the car and went through everything. reminded me of the wire tuck work involved in my last built ej coupe I did. You may have been around and remember seeing it. The black coupe i had a build thread on here while I was in Iraq buying parts and stuff, then went home on leave and finished it all up. Fully tucked, fully built ls-vtec. it was black....had a pink valve cover. ended up making almost 700 whp. my old screen name was aaronbrooks22 i believe

Oh perfect!! I have that diagram and was using it, all the way up to the step that says to "connect the test harness between the ECU and connector" what is that? The "test harness" and where would one go about buying one?