88 Honda Civic error 20

avi4t

New Member
i have a Honda civic 88 automatic that gives a error code 20. i already tried replacing the main fuse box. the voltages are around were it should be(usually a volt less then it should be) but when i change the high/low beams on the car starts to die. while the beams are off the car runs but still lacks power on take off. i have similar symptoms like

http://www.automobile.hondaciviclx.c....php?p=3434683

has but he has an error 16, with mine it has 20. (my car isn't flooding.) when i go the speed i need it at, it could stay there, but still have problems with the beams. also had a speed sensor error code 17 for awhile, got these codes when i went 50 miles. Please help asap!!!!!I'm ready to strap a couple pounds of c4 to it and blow this car up.
 

RonJ

Banned
If you reset the ECU, does code 20 return?

Have you checked whether the ELD 3P connector in the hood fuse box is disconnected?

Do you have a multimeter to do some electrical tests?
 


RonJ

Banned
So why did you not think it was important to provide this useful information in the first post??

Post the results of your electrical tests, step by step. You can't get help unless you provide detailed information, unless you want us just to throw random guesses at you.
 


avi4t

New Member
battery has voltages
step 4 (electric load detector electrical connector (green/red) and ground 4.3 close to the 4.5
step 6 with low power is shown - voltages when it should be around 2 volts. and the and the eld has been replaced 3 times and same issues.
so step 6 is our problem. it usually says -0.2 volts
 

RonJ

Banned
battery has voltages
What was your battery voltage measurement on the Blk/Yel wire? How did this voltage compare to the voltage measured across the two battery posts?

step 4 (electric load detector electrical connector (green/red) and ground 4.3 close to the 4.5
step 6 with low power is shown - voltages when it should be around 2 volts. and the and the eld has been replaced 3 times and same issues.
so step 6 is our problem. it usually says -0.2 volts
Did you use the mentioned test harnesses in your tests (e.g, steps 4 and 6)?. If not describe how you actually did those tests.

What was done for step 3 testing for continuity between B19 and the Red/Grn wire? What was the Ohm measurement?

If you assume that 4.3V should yield a no rather than yes answer at step 4, what voltage reading do you get in the subsequent test in the "no" branch?
 

avi4t

New Member
in step 4 i got a voltage 3.33
did not check ohm when i go to step 6 it gos - number with a fuse 40a if i put 50a it stay + number and - number on the voltage it is all over the place
 

RonJ

Banned
You are not answering all questions in my previous post.

Clear answers will help you pinpoint and fix the problem.
 


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