93 LX temp gauge stays cold

brian.evans

New Member
The car is a bone stock 93 LX auto trans.

I'm a paramedic and work 24 hours on, 48 hours off. Basically, I drive 50 miles to work, shut it off for 24 hours, drive 50 miles home, shut it off for 48 hours. Sometimes it gets driven for errands on off days, but not usually.

Three days ago, drove it home and it was fine. Yesterday, my wife drove it for errands and says the temp came up to normal and the heater worked just fine. (Who knows if thats truly the case however, as she isn't very car savvy. I'd assume she would have complained about the heater not working if it wasn't warming up though.) Last night we went to a track meet for my son. It was cold, but not overly. About 30F. I started the car and let it warm up for about 10 minutes or so with the heater off. When we got in the car I noted the temp gauge was about halfway between the bottom bar of the temp gauge and the middle of the gauge. That is normal. It doesn't usually warm up all the way until I drive it for a couple miles. Been like that since I bought it a year ago.

We started driving and I waited for it to get up to temp to turn the heater on. But it never did! The temp dropped like a rock! Down below the C on the gauge. And there is where it stayed the entire time we were driving. Heater blew cold to barely more than cold air. We drove about 15 minutes and parked it. With the car stopped and the heater off the temp slowly creeped back upward, but never got more than a couple needle widths above the bottom hash mark.

Today I drove it to work. The needle hung out right on top of the C. Stopped the car about halfway to work, crept upwards while stopped, then dropped again after I took off, but not as far down. The heater blew warm enough to knock the chill off, but that's about it. Usually it will burn a guy out of the car it's so hot. The fan wasn't on when I checked it halfway, nor when I arrived at work.

A week and a half ago I replaced the radiator, top and bottom hose, radiator cap, thermostat, oil, coolant (duh right?), and trans fluid.
It has ran in excess of 450 miles since then without a hitch, until the last 16 hours. I'm stuck for ideas. It's like the engine isn't heating the coolant properly. Both hoses are warm, top more so than bottom, but both warm. Radiator is topped off, engine was bleed with the bleeder valve and by alternating squeezing the top and bottom hoses with the cap off while pouring fluid in. Engine seems to be running fine, the valve cover was not as warm to touch as usual, but I'm honestly not sure if truly is cooler to touch, or if I'm making it up in my head given the other stuff going on. All cables/cords seem to be in place and hooked up.

I'm really stumped for ideas. We are planning on taking it to Mayo on Monday, which is about 9 hours from us. I'd really like to figure it out so I don't have to take the suburban and its 15 mpg V8. Any ideas/help on where to start trouble shooting would be very much appreciated.
 

brian.evans

New Member
Ron, are you thinking that the heater core is blocked up inside or that it has an air bubble in the system? I bled the system quite well, but I will try it again to make sure.
 

Wreckless Hype

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
Did you bleed it the way it's described in his post, using the bleeder valve where the upper radiator hose connects to the block? I bled my 95 DX and topped it off and still had overheating issues until I used the valve and found a good amount air in the system.

If the heater core is clogged, you can use a low pressure water supply to flush it out. I used a garden hose and blew tons of crap out of my radiator core. Mine happened to have too much junk in it that I ended up having to replace it.
 


stupidhard

BOAT KNIGHT!
i dont do this but today im a thread pirate. i have a similar problem. one day the needle on the guage never moved from C but the heat worked as it always has and the rad fan never came on either.

changed the fan relay cause it was visibly not working (plastic case cracked and would not energize) that fixed the rad fan issue, but nothing else. if left idle the temp crept up and the fan kicked on. car in motion the temp never rised. changed thermostat and that did nothing (percievably).

the guage seems to work and will get a quarter of the way up the sweep before the fan kicks on. but thats only if its not moving forward and before the symptoms showed up it would get almost half way up the sweep and stay there.
 

brian.evans

New Member
Which is basically what my problem is. I'm not an idiot, but I'm starting to feeling one. I know how to bleed a coolant system, this shouldn't be this hard!

I did exactly what the link said. Once yesterday afternoon, and again this morning. It didn't work. I'm getting frustrated.

The thing that really gets me is that it worked fine for almost a week after replacing the radiator before these mysterious symptoms showed up. How the heck does that happen??

Any ideas before I pack the stupid thing with dynamite and blow it to high heaven?
 

Wreckless Hype

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
What thermostat are you using? I had an issue with an Autozone brand not opening properly. I always recommend using Honda OEM on those, they just work the best, always.

For those cars, the cooling system doesn't seem incredibly intricate but has the weirdest issues. I got rid of my 95 after flushing the system, replacing the heater core, radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, IACV, FITV, and flushing the entire thing again. It would still get warmer than it should. I don't recommend getting rid of it for that reason, I just had another car and no time to work on it. :lol:
 

brian.evans

New Member
Well, just for grins I pulled the thermostat after I posted the above. The rubber seal around the thermostat itself looked like it may have gotten pinched between the housing parts. That may have been introducing air into the system, I dont know. The thermostat was stuck open as well. Dropped it in ice water for several minutes with no change. It was a cheap auto zone part, and quite literally the last thing I'm ever going to put in my vehicles from there. I'm headed to the dealer and getting an oem tstat later this morning. Hopefully all this pays off.
 

brian.evans

New Member
I think I've got it fixed. I replaced the pos thermostat with a honda oem stat and gasket. Bled the system, drove it around a bit and I think I've got her licked. I will report in again tomorrow after an extended driving test.

I think the gasket got pinched between the housings, and over the week that it ran ok got cut deeper and deeper, finally allowing minute amount of air in. I think that's why I could never get it bled, it was sucking air in right there.

I'm DONE buying none oem parts for this car. OEM parts are sooooo much nicer and better built than the cheap aftermarket crap that autozone sells.
 


Top