94 ex timing belt/pump/adjuster

[roc0487]

What's up everybody?

Today I installed a new timing belt/water pump/tensioner pulley... Went pretty well once I got the 1/2 17mm socket. lol Anyways, the only issue I had was one of the water pump bolts sheered off, it was a 10mm bolt. Should I worry too much about this? I got a good seal with the gasket and a bit of Hondabond, and the pump didn't move whatsoever. Also, upon initial start up the belt seemed a bit wobbly on the rad side. I did the tension procedure to the book but only went 3 teeth. The car fired right up and eliminated the notorious "whine" that went along with the throttle, figured it was bearings in idler or pump so I replaced everything.

I guess my questions are, should I worry about the sheered bolt? And is it normal to have a slight wobble on rad side? Should I have went more than 3 teeth?

Sorry for the book, just want to make sure s**t is straight. Thanks in advance.

 

[RonJ]

The water pump has one short bolt, so if you install a long bolt in that hole, you'll sheer it off. I know from experience.

Is the bolt partially protruding from the block? If not, you need to drill it out and replace it. For this work, you'll need to remove the timing belt, so you can re-tension the belt then.

 

[roc0487]

It was the short bolt at 7 o'clock, it isn't sticking out at all... should I worry about drill and tap asap? Also, what is your recommendation on tension procedure? Thanks man.

 

[RonJ]

Is there enough access to etch a groove into the visible bolt with a Dremel tool and then remove the bolt with a flat head screwdriver?

The radiator side of the belt should be tight. The crank pulley must only be turned counterclockwise.

 

[roc0487]

thanks man, the rad side is loose. I'm thinking the tension pulley may not have seated on the stud properly. and the bolt in in the block so it will have to be drilled and tapped.

 

[RonJ]

You'll have to remove the driver's side torque mount and upper motor mount and raise the engine high from the oil pan with a jack to get access. A close quarter drill may also be needed.

 

[roc0487]

I was going to check the belt tension and everything today, but to my surprise Pitt got 2-4" of snow so that will be delayed until the middle of the week. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again man.

 

[roc0487]

Ron,

If I set cam gear to TDC #1, remove the belt for mechanical timing, if the crank pulley is off time can I rotate pulley without the belt? If so I assume only counter clockwise? I ended up ordering the tensioner spring also, feel like a dipshit for not doing that when I had it apart the first time.

 

[RonJ]

...if the crank pulley is off time can I rotate pulley without the belt?

yes

If so I assume only counter clockwise?

With the belt off you can turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise, whichever allows for the least rotation.

 

[roc0487]

I appreciate the help and knowledge, I took it for a ride today and it seemed fine... no miss really only things I noticed are... Belt is tight on firewall side, not radiator. I retensioned the belt to 3 teeth and it was fine, a while later the "whine" came back. I'm just going to wait for the spring, I have a feeling it's stretched and not maintaining proper tension even after the adjustment. Upon reading the manual, I think my alt belt isn't adjusted to spec since the dipshit light for the battey flickers and stays lit.

 

[Vinelandjeff]

If your belt is tensioned to tight it will make a winning nosie, which is very bad. If you follow the procedure posted above correctly for belt tension, once you have moved the cam gear 3 teeth and tightened the tensioner bolt here is a quick check you may do. grab the belt on the radiator side halfway between crank and cam gear and rotate it toward the engine with your hand, belt should turn 90° ( 1/4 turn and dont use excessive force).. More than that your to loose, less than that your to tight. Additionally I will add that I have seen a few civics come into my shop with only 3 bolts in the waterpump, both times pumps were sealed to block and not leaking but I would recommend fixing your broken bolt while you have the timing belt off. Bolt extractors are nice, use caution aluminum is not very forgiving..

 

[roc0487]

Thanks Jeff, I got the new spring from Honda... installed everything and still the noise. Upon MORE research and your comments along with RonJ's, I've determined that it is in fact too tight so tomorrow I will make adjustment. Also, I torqued tensioner bolt by hand, so that is definitely too tight. I will use my head tomorrow and post results. This has been a PITA but if I wouldn't have overlooked the simplicity, it would be fine. Appreciate your help. Also, I haven't driven it with the noise... as I heard it will wear cam journals, just enough to start the car, hear the noise and kill it. Hope I haven't damaged anything.