A/C not working - please advise

[RonJ]

Something is wrong. I don't think you have correctly traced the wire. No A/C pressure switch wire should run to the thermal protector, which has a Blu/Red wire running from terminal 1 of the clutch relay.

Still, I think you found the problem. If the A/C runs when you jump the two wires of the pressure switch connector, then the A/C pressure switch is bad or the refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. Use you multimeter to test for continuity across the two terminals of the unplugged pressure switch itself. If there's no continuity, that's the problem.

 

[yasen]

Something is wrong. I don't think you have correctly traced the wire. No A/C pressure switch wire should run to the thermal protector, which has a Blu/Red wire running from terminal 1 of the clutch relay.

Still, I think you found the problem. If the A/C runs when you jump the two wires of the pressure switch connector, then the A/C pressure switch is bad or the refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. Use you multimeter to test for continuity across the two terminals of the unplugged pressure switch itself. If there's no continuity, that's the problem.

There is no continiuty on the pressure switch itself between two terminals. So, you think I have to replace pressure switch? But as far as I see there is no way to do it wothout unpluging freon pipes, right?
Why did you post a thermal protector replacement digram? Should I continue heater control panel test, I just took my console off.
Thanks

BTW, I was reading other forums about A/C problems and I've seen a few people were talking that they have a red/white wire which goes from pressure to thermal proctetor switch.

 

[yasen]

Something is wrong. I don't think you have correctly traced the wire. No A/C pressure switch wire should run to the thermal protector, which has a Blu/Red wire running from terminal 1 of the clutch relay.

Still, I think you found the problem. If the A/C runs when you jump the two wires of the pressure switch connector, then the A/C pressure switch is bad or the refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. Use you multimeter to test for continuity across the two terminals of the unplugged pressure switch itself. If there's no continuity, that's the problem.

There is no continiuty on the pressure switch itself between two terminals when key on ON(II). So, you think I have to replace pressure switch? But as far as I see there is no way to do it wothout unpluging freon pipes, right?
Why did you post a thermal protector replacement digram? Should I continue heater control panel test, I just took my console off.
Thanks

BTW, I was reading other forums about A/C problems and I've seen a few people were talking that they have a red/white wire which goes from pressure to thermal proctetor switch.

 

[RonJ]

There is no continiuty on the pressure switch itself between two terminals when key on ON(II). So, you think I have to replace pressure switch? But as far as I see there is no way to do it wothout unpluging freon pipes, right?
Why did you post a thermal protector replacement digram? Should I continue heater control panel test, I just took my console off.
Thanks

BTW, I was reading other forums about A/C problems and I've seen a few people were talking that they have a red/white wire which goes from pressure to thermal proctetor switch.

When you jumped the 2 terminals of the pressure switch connector to each other, did you let the A/C run just long enough to know whether it blew cold air? To know whether or not the A/C pressure switch is good, you must measure the refrigerant pressures at the high and low ports. If the pressures are fine. replace the pressure switch.

I posted the thermal protector diagram so that you could verify that the pressure switch wire actually runs to the thermal switch. This seems unlikely and should not be the case. There should be no need now to do the heater control panel test because the A/C system ran when you pushed the A/C button with the pressure switch terminals jumped to each other, right?

 

[yasen]

When you jumped the 2 terminals of the pressure switch connector to each other, did you let the A/C run just long enough to know whether it blew cold air? To know whether or not the A/C pressure switch is good, you must measure the refrigerant pressures at the high and low ports. If the pressures are fine. replace the pressure switch.

I posted the thermal protector diagram so that you could verify that the pressure switch wire actually runs to the thermal switch. This seems unlikely and should not be the case. There should be no need now to do the heater control panel test because the A/C system ran when you pushed the A/C button with the pressure switch terminals jumped to each other, right?

Ok, I just need to double check a few things.
1. I don't remember if AC bottin was ON or not when I jumpen two wires on the pressure switch together, but everything was working. I will double chech that.
2. I just ran it for a few seconds so I don't know if it is blowing a cold air, will check it today. So, if there is no cold air that means that the problem is refrigerant liquid, right?
3. Is there a tool, let's say in Home Depot, which I can use to measure a low& High pressure?
4. Just to make sure, I will test red/white wire between pressure switch and thermal protector for continiuty. I did trace it and it is the same wire....but just to make sure.
Thanks

 

[yasen]

When you jumped the 2 terminals of the pressure switch connector to each other, did you let the A/C run just long enough to know whether it blew cold air? To know whether or not the A/C pressure switch is good, you must measure the refrigerant pressures at the high and low ports. If the pressures are fine. replace the pressure switch.

I posted the thermal protector diagram so that you could verify that the pressure switch wire actually runs to the thermal switch. This seems unlikely and should not be the case. There should be no need now to do the heater control panel test because the A/C system ran when you pushed the A/C button with the pressure switch terminals jumped to each other, right?

OK, when two wires jumped together AC comes up only when AC button pressed and engine started. WHich means that heater panel is fine and it is only metter to figure out it is refregerant or pressure switch. I had AC running for a few minutes and it didn't make any difference in temperature inside of the car. One of the pipes with "H" (high) became a bit colder but not very cold. I woild assume that this is becase I dont have enought freon in the system . Will try to contact somebody to check freon existance and pressure. Thanks

 

[Chris.]

freon pressure wouldve been my very first test.

unfortunately you probably have wasted a ton of time just becasue there wasnt enough freon.

which again... wouldve been the very first test... if theres gas in the system... then you move on to find out why it wont move.

 

[yasen]

freon pressure wouldve been my very first test.

unfortunately you probably have wasted a ton of time just becasue there wasnt enough freon.

which again... wouldve been the very first test... if theres gas in the system... then you move on to find out why it wont move.

sure, I will find a place to test it out this weekend. Thanks.
I'll post my results. The only question I have is what if the pressure is bad and I'll charge the system with gas .... and let's say the system still will not work. I guess as we did lots of tests ...so I will need to change the pressure terminal, that means to do that I will need to discharge all gas in the system, replace pressure switch and than charge freon again?

 

[Chris.]

yup....

although a can of freon from the parts store is roughly 12 dollars. its cheap to DIY compared to have a shop do it for you twice..

however... if you do have a shop charge it for you... they should be able to troubleshoot the rest of the system.. if they deem the pressure switch is bad.. they should be able to pull the freon out and replace the switch and recharge it...they shouldnt have to charge you for recharging it... you would be getting back the same stuff they just put in....

i work on AC systems all the time for a used car lot.. i could get your s**t working on the cheap... like less than 100 bux. but then again... you live 3000 miles away

 

[yasen]

Hi RonJ,
I am done with my AC problem. The problem was in freon...I didn't have any freon in the system. It is all working now. Thank you very much for your help and time.

 

[exe]

Hi there...

I am having a very similar issue and I've narrowed it down to the multiplex control unit. I've been hunting down a new fuse box, but i want to be sure of a few things before i go further. If you don't mind, i have two questions. First, on the "special tool", do I need to make or purchase the jumper wire for the testing? Secondly, do I need an exact same piece from an exact same model? what i mean is, can I use a 2004 civic fuse box in my 2003 honda civic, as long as both are EX models with MT?

Thanks so much for your help!

 

[perryplyang]

A/C and Fan not turn on

Hi,

I had the simliar issue. I haad a Civic 2004, bought it used at 85k km.
The Blower Motor make little noise so I try to repair. but it got worse after I reassessmble it.
Now I take a good blower motor and put it back. But when I turn on fan, the fan not work, turn on a/c, the light is on but not compessor working.
I am not a auto techy guy, so please help to fix the issue.
Thanks so much!

Perry

 

[duke9074]

03 civic ac issue

hi guys im new to the forum and saw this thread while browsing to try and fix my a/c. I have the same problem in a 2003 honda civic lx. i have completed most of the test but not all cuz some connectors and wiring is different colors. What i can tell you is all fuses and relay work. Relays were bench tested and swapped. Low pressure side has about 35-40 pounds. High side i am unsure of. The a/c does not come on and does not cycle when the button and fan are selected. The a/c can be forced on by if the blue/white wire are jumped to the red wire on the thermal protector connector, compressor will lock up if just the blue/red wire is jumped. Jumping 2 and 1 in the fuse box will turn each on individually. Here is where it gets odd when the blue/white and red wire are jumped on thermal protector the a/c fan and rad fan both are stuck on as well as the compressor, a/c seems to still blow outside air, low side tube gets cold, but high side tube remain close to its original temp, hard to tell if a/c is actually producing cold air since its about 55 degrees where i am right now. Back to the funny part with the two wires jumped the fans run and a/c compressor locks up but inside the car the fan is selected to high and the blower motor works at all items, if i select the a/c button it lights up green and turns off the compressor and both fans outside. So with the wires jumped the a/c switch works in reverse. An added note that may help here is the relay terminal in fuse box all appears to be good 1 thorugh 3 on both compressor and clutch now four gets tricky on number four on compressor relay (relay that is closest to windshield) there is no power 0v, i figured it was a ground and trying to read battery voltage using terminal four as my ground still 0v so i check continuity from terminal four to battery ground no continuity and no continuity from terminal four to battery voltage, i can get continuity from all the other by connection to its opposite post based on if it reads voltage or not. My question is where does terminal four go to and what is it supposed to be. Also what color wire is it on the bottom in which connector? Unless of course someone can just tell me my problem from this.

Added note jumping the pressure switch has no affect and the actual pressure switch has continuity.