B18b1 Cranks, but won't start

dannwo1

New Member
For the last month or so I was helping my buddy rebuild his b18 after he spun a few bearings. We got it all together and dropped it back in the car, but when it came time to start it we were dissapointed when we just heard the engine cranking and not starting. I've rebuilt/swapped alot of engines in the past so I pretty much expected some problems at this point.

From there I double checked the mechanical timing thinking we might have jumped a tooth or two with the belt during cranking, but the marks were still dead on.

After that I took a timing light to the harmonic balancer (after jumping the service plug) and noticed the timing was way off. Keep in mind the motor isn't running at this point so the light was blinking intermittently, nonetheless, it was enough (in the dark) to line up the red mark with the indicator on the timing cover.

{A peculiar situation was that the distributer was nearly bottomed out advanced to line up the ignition mark.}

When that yielded no results we double checked the plugs.They were all getting a very bright snapping spark.

I then hooked up a compression tester to see if there might be a problem with the valve seats or piston rings (all of wich are brand new). The readings from cilinders 1-4 were: 180, 178, 172, 180. Given a 25psi dievience threshold and a service limit near 130 along with the fact that the engine is cold (like 18 degrees lol) and the rings haven't yet been seated these numbers are fine.

Earlier today I turned to the fuel supply. The injectors were reused, but still work fine. When I removed the plugs to do the compression test they all distinctly smelled like gas wich means all injectors are firing. The fuel filter is brand new.

{A peculiar situation was that gas merely dribbled out of the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter when it was loosened even when the key is in the auxillary position and when it is cycled} I had expected gas to spray out with much more force than that. Tomorrow I will test fuel pressure and post the results.

At this point we became desperate and I began to slowly turn the distributer while my buddy cranked the engine to see if I coud find a "sweet spot" using the old school method (with the service port jumped). Doing this we've managed to get the engine to stammer over a few revolutions, but it never ran for more than a half of a second. I eventually gave up and moved it back to the recommended position using the marks i've made earlier.

There are no fuses blown and both the main and fuel relays are clicking on and off. There are presently no DTC's stored.

We've also cleaned all existing factory ground connections and have added three more. One to the exhaust manifold, one to the valve cover and one to the thermostat housing.

So everything's there. Spark, fuel, compression, timing (ignition and mechanicall) New plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter. There must be something vehicle specific i must have overlooked so I decided to post my problem in this forum in hope that one of you guys or girls can chime in with some suggestions. I've tried to be as discriptive as possible to avoid confusion as to what has already been replaced/checked, but if you have any additional questions don't hesitate to ask.

Thanks in advance.
 

Jabes

New Member
5+ Year Member
soo, your getting spark, fuel and compression? are they stock injectors from the same year car? just wondering because I've had problems where the car wont start due to running injectors that required a ressistor box and it was dumping too much fuel and flooding out the car
 


dannwo1

New Member
Thank you for your quick response Jabes!

Yes; i'm getting spark and compression.

The injectors are stock and were reused from the same car.

Thanks agian.
 

Jabes

New Member
5+ Year Member
and just to make sure, was the car running with those injectors before the rebuild?
 


dannwo1

New Member
Yes; the car ran those same injectors for over two years without any issues.

I don't think they're contributing to the problem.
 

Jabes

New Member
5+ Year Member
Hmm well then other then the fact that the timing is off I'm stumped as to why its not starting unless some wires were messed with in the wiring harness causing it to short out and since the tdc marks are ligned up it should run just fine cause thats the way most B series I've worked with are. One other thing to check are the 3 main grounding points to make sure they are getting contact, the 3 Im talking about are the one from the body to the valve cover, the one from the transmission to the body and the ground on the water neck of the engine.
 

dannwo1

New Member
Perhaps you should read through my question a few more times before you respond. The questions you're asking have already been answered.

The cam. and ignition timing are not off.

I'm not sure what you were trying to say in the rest of the first run on sentence.

I've cleaned all factory grounds and have created additional grounds.
 

Jabes

New Member
5+ Year Member
sorry I'm at work and I read the fact that it was off when you put the timing light to it and then didnt notice that you fixed it. I was stating about the 3 main grounds that one of them might be disconnected cause I know that when I've done engine swaps before its just a little ground that can cause it to not want to run.

But I guess I'm not qualified enough to help so hopefully somebody else can
 


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