D16Y8 Low RPM Hesitation - Fine past 2500 RPM

Wreckless Hype

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So why no pictures?
Took a pic of the rotor position so I didn't 180 it when I put it all back together. After removing everything and the oil leaking, I just didn't touch my phone due to nasty mitts... When i get it out again, I'll get pictures of it up. But here's the rotor position pic I took and the arrow is the hot spot I thought looked funny.



Also, my plastic shield isn't missing, I had it and the rotor off, but put the rotor back on just to take a picture before yanking it all out.
 

RonJ

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The arrow is pointing to the coil, not the ICM.
 


Wreckless Hype

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Gotcha, my bad. And because I didn't know enough at the time, I didn't pull anything out besides the coil, and even still the wires were all still connected. Maybe I'll swap it over real quick and run to the store.
 

Wreckless Hype

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Had a few minutes before we went out for some BBQ wares, yanked hers and set it aside. I pulled mine and left the rotor on it, slapped it in with her cap and plugs and set it where the ignition mark was happy.

Heading out, her car felt pretty normal. We had gone out already with her distributor in, it's pretty humid and warm, ran totally fine. With my distributor and rotor, didn't really feel all that different.

I'm not sure how that makes sense but since she seems unaffected by my part, I'll leave it and run hers in my car to see if it keeps it happy...
 


Wreckless Hype

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OK, so this issue still exists with her distributor and rotor. All cap, rotor, plugs, and wires are very new on both of our cars.

So back to square 1.

Will check compression. I would think that this would be noticeable when going WOT, but it's really not.

Lots of people seem to say SeaFoam for cleaning everything out. Just ideas, since I'm pretty much out.
 

RonJ

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Ah yea. Forgot about that... That should be pretty easy to try also. I'm sure I can do that one of these nights.
Also restore your FIA system to stock and swap in the gf's TPS.

Your gf's car is a valuable resource that should be exploited for testing purposes.
 

Wreckless Hype

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Looking at page 11-250 on service manual shows the hose from the intake going to the side of the valve and the top going to the fuel injectors. I thought mine was backwards, but I'll check again. So restore FIA as in put old intake back on and swap TPS. Any secrets for getting the TPS off without removing the hole TB? Kinda cramped. Otherwise I guess I'll grab a couple gaskets..

This valve is the one sitting on top of the thermostat housing? I thought this was the Air Assist? I was actually just going through the thread to see what we touched base on and now I'm slightly confused. To verify, it's this guy:

Can \ should it be removed and cleaned?

Tearing her car up.

Btw, reread this:
That was a fun diversion. Now I have both you and connie pissed at me. Oh well, the interwebs is a complicated place to navigate.
Heh I'm extremely sarcastic and have been known to go too far at times. I don't get pissed otherwise I'd tell you straight up you're an ass. I'm thankful for your assistance with this, so thanks again. Girlfriend calls this issue with the car a case of Princess and the Pea since she has no idea what I'm talking about...
 

RonJ

Banned
Looking at page 11-250 on service manual shows the hose from the intake going to the side of the valve and the top going to the fuel injectors. I thought mine was backwards, but I'll check again. So restore FIA as in put old intake back on
What intake is currently installed in the car? You just need to feed the FIA valve filtered air from any intake and allow the FIA to feed it to the injectors.

This valve is the one sitting on top of the thermostat housing? I thought this was the Air Assist? I was actually just going through the thread to see what we touched base on and now I'm slightly confused. To verify, it's this guy:

Can \ should it be removed and cleaned?
Yep, but I'd just get the vacuum hoses attached. Then go from there.



...and swap TPS. Any secrets for getting the TPS off without removing the hole TB? Kinda cramped. Otherwise I guess I'll grab a couple gaskets..
Tearing her car up.
Remove TB. Replace $2 gasket. Do you know how to remove the TPS from the TB?
 

Wreckless Hype

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What intake is currently installed in the car? You just need to feed the FIA valve filtered air from any intake and allow the FIA to feed it to the injectors.
Password:JDM Power Chamber. Reached out to them about another hose port assembly. Haven't gotten to sit and call. May try to use OEM hose attachment if I can, get hose attached



Remove TB. Replace $2 gasket. Do you know how to remove the TPS from the TB?
Not worried about a gasket. The "screws" are a pain in the ass, obviously not a big deal.I can get it off, yea. I'll get both TBs pulled off and clean everything up, check attached hoses. Likely will be after weekend.

Will swap ECUs first since it's a couple screws and plugs, won't take much time.
 

RonJ

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You need to voltage calibrate the TPS after swapping.

Replace the rivet-like TPS screws with hex head screws. Makes calibrating and replacement easier.
 

Wreckless Hype

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YogiBear reminded me, I swapped out the ECUs today, will find out tomorrow and the next few days if that does anything. Then will swap out TPS next.
 

Wreckless Hype

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Recent developments:

- Filled the tank, got 40 miles less on this tank than the previous average (345-360)
- Car has been chugging on take off for some reason, like when you don't give it enough gas and it wants to stall out but shakes a lot.
- P0133 code popped up yesterday driving home from work. It had rain heavily before leaving, started to rain some on the way home, drove it normally until the light came on, granny'd it home. Check the wire, plug was seated properly, wire was routed properly, no bare wire that I could see at all.
- I cleared the code to see if I could get it to come back on driving to work, so far nothing.
- I'm hearing audible valve ticking / chattering when I let off the gas. It's mostly noticeable when the car is in neutral since the engine is under no real load from the gears. Revs up and the rpms fall, engine is quieter and I can hear valves after, and then they are mostly quiet. When it hit certain rpms when idling, I can hear them again. Will try to get a video when I get home if it's not pouring. The valves were adjusted according to spec in the service manual using brand new feeler gauges, adjustment was done with the engine cold. Oil is topped off, sits a hair below the second mark on the dip stick. Maybe Saturday, I'll wake up at the ass crack of dawn (nice and cool) and pull the valve cover off again to make sure they are still in spec. I put them at .008 I & .010 E, I could always tighten them to .007 / .009, but obviously making sure they are still in spec would be a little more important.

I have a piece from P:JDM coming to fit the hose back on the new intake for the AASV
 

RonJ

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P0133 can be caused by an exhaust leak or a bad O2 sensor. This could explain the reduce gas mileage.
 

Wreckless Hype

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P0133 can be caused by an exhaust leak or a bad O2 sensor. This could explain the reduce gas mileage.
I did recently swap out the exhaust manifold, so I'm going to focus on that first, since I'm sure that's more likely than my O2 sensor going bad. I used a Fel-Pro manifold gasket and Walker flex gasket, I've always had good luck with them, could have just spent the $25 on OEM, still might. Torqued the bolts to specs. Maybe the flex gasket isn't seated properly.
 

Wreckless Hype

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Where is your primary O2 sensor and cat located?
Stock location for everything, cat and both O2s. The replacement manifold has the O2 bung in the exact same location as the old one.


(Hard to see O2 in pic, but yea)


I did use new spring bolts on the mating connection, instead of the crappy provided straight bolt and nut.

Edit: Found another picture, comparing parts
 

RonJ

Banned
The point is that the exhaust leak could also be at the donut gasket downstream of the primary O2 sensor.
 


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