Decoding Upgrades

[CoyoteBlack]

Hey folks, These forums have been helpful so far, so I figure I'd ask again.

I'm new to owning my civic, (1997 hatch)

Its had a whole ton of modifications done to it which I want to understand better first. Once I understand that this whole post turns into a "What else can I upgrade from here" type deal haha. I plan on legally drag racing this car, but it will 98% of its life just be a quick street car.

I'm going to throw some photos up of the stuff that has been done to this engine. Can someone explain to a beginner what exactly these modifications mean/ do? I'm mostly unfamiliar with honda engines, obviously I'm aware of how a turbo works. haha

I was planning on putting the ZEX turbo nitrous/ purge kit on this guy, I just feel like i can get more than 300whp (where its currently at) out of it with other upgrades first. If I get to 500whp I'll probably stop there. I'm aware upping the power that much is probably going to call for some drivetrain upgrades. I'm all ears.


Thanks!

 

[Esotericimage]

Well, theres not alot of modifications that warrant 300whp.

It doesnt list any internal upgrades which leaves me to believe the engine is stock.

If your building towards 300-500 WHP, then you better have a thick wallet.

As it sits, its just a small greddy turbo and your right around the 200whp range.


DO NOT ADD NITROUS AS IT SITS RIGHT NOW

you have alot of learning of honda engines and how turbo's effect power and efficiency.


this is an old read, has alot of good info, but most of the parts listed are outdated and not used anymore.

THis is for information purposes only

G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra


If you want me to detail what parts you have on the list, then copy and paste the parts on here and Ill go thru it with you. Im not going back and forth between tabs.

 

[CoyoteBlack]

This is part of the reason I'm asking. When I get home I'll go ahead and type everything out so it's easier. One thing worth noting is that it's actually already been dyno tested at 300whp so there has to be more to it. I was thinking the different heads on there were for sure helping as well as the other engine stuff.

 

[CoyoteBlack]

d16z6 head*
crane cam*
crane retainers/valves*
ferrea seals*
d16z6 intake manifold*
440cc Lucus injectors*
cx racing fuel rail
GM 3 bar map
p28 running neptune
hasport engine mounts

d16y7 block
cp 9:1 pistons*
eagle rods*
laskey racing assembled*
(www.laskeyracing.com)

Everything listed above that i made in red sounds like stuff that would be internal engine upgrades right? Or am I missing something.

turbo stuff:
greddy 15g turbo kit
kteller 2.5 inch downpipe upgrade
apexi world sport 2 exhaust
catch can with valve cover vents
tial 50mm blow off valve
eagle racing vaccum block

Here is the dyno graph

 

[Esotericimage]

Well if it was built bu laskey, then im sure it might have Benson Sleeves. If it does, then yes. You can build it to 500hp.

I would change the turbo, downpipe to 3" and exhaust to 3", bigger intercooler and charge piping, and 1000cc injectors. Since i dont know what the manifild looks like, it will probably need to be changed to a higher flowing unit.
Personally if i had laskey buildi g me an engine for boost, i would choose the compression to be in the high 9s to 10. But to each their own.

 

[CoyoteBlack]

Cool, those are helpful tips for sure. Like I said i'm new to this whole thing so I just want to make sure I understand a few things

Would the 9:1 cp pistons mean that I have higher compression?

Is the key to getting more horsepower out of this engine basically reinforcing it like crazy then just boosting the crap out of it? I dont want to grenade my engine so I want to make sure im doing everything right on this. Nitrous just seemed like another logical add on but I understand it takes a lot to be able to use it effectively and safely while staying mechanically sound.

Would adding the 3" piping and exhaust give me that much more power gain?

 

[Esotericimage]

Cool, those are helpful tips for sure. Like I said i'm new to this whole thing so I just want to make sure I understand a few things

Would the 9:1 cp pistons mean that I have higher compression? No, IMO anything under 9.5 would be considered low compression. Others might have a different number.

Is the key to getting more horsepower out of this engine... this would be tuning. Tuning is the key to make any engine last. You take the parts and the tuning makes them all work together for a blended result.

Would adding the 3" piping and exhaust give me that much more power gain? When you have a turbo, you want to expel the exhaust gasses as quickly as possible w/o any restriction. This helps with turbo spool up. 2.5 could work, but adding in a few twists and turns and it creates a small restriction. Now, a 2.5" downpipe to a 3" exhaust will also work as long as the transitions are smooth.

 

[Esotericimage]

d16z6 head*
crane cam*
crane retainers/valves*
ferrea seals*
d16z6 intake manifold*
440cc Lucus injectors*
cx racing fuel rail
GM 3 bar map >> this is a map (manifold absolute pressure) sensor which reads the pressure at the manifold. OEM Hondas are limited to 11psi
p28 running neptune >> this is the ECU and tuning software. Im hoping theres the Demon board installed inside. YOu will need to open it to see. If not, then its tuned on Neptune and burned to a chip. But excellent tuning option.
hasport engine mounts >> self explainatory

d16y7 block
cp 9:1 pistons*
eagle rods*
laskey racing assembled*
(www.laskeyracing.com)

Everything listed above that i made in red sounds like stuff that would be internal engine upgrades right? Or am I missing something. >> Maybe valve guides.. Im assuming if someone did valve work, I hope guides were replaced.

turbo stuff:
greddy 15g turbo kit >> not bad but has limits, We can talk about power goals and building towards it
kteller 2.5 inch downpipe upgrade >> still can be used
apexi world sport 2 exhaust >> I would sell this to someone looking for an exhaust
catch can with valve cover vents >> Needed for crankcase evacuation
tial 50mm blow off valve > Nice part indeed
eagle racing vaccum block >> Depends on what is hooked up to it, I never used one.

 

[mc360]

The key to power with a turbo is more boost or more timing, with rods and pistons your good for about 400-500hp range, somewhere close to 500 (i forget the exact record) the stock sleeves give out so you need to make sure your block is sleeved before going to far.

9:1 compression is just fine most stock cars run 9:1 or 10:1, when you add a turbo your increasing the dynamic compression so say your stock car is 9:1 and your running 8 lbs of boost you are now basically running 17:1 compression. Personally I think my 9.4:1 stock compression is perfect but some people say higher cr equals faster spool times for the turbo bit then you have to worry more about detonation.

You can add nitrous to help spool the turbo also but you need to tune the whole map for nitrous or else you won't have enough fuel if you spray to soon, the crappy thing about adding more fuel like that is your going to get worse gas mileage even when out of boost and not spraying

 

[Esotericimage]

Well, the higher the CR means better throttle response and better MPG's when just puttin around.

9.5 is fine but IMO under that means lack of throttle response and you have to wait a few seconds for the car to get movin when hitting the gas

 

[XpL0d3r]

[url=http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html]G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra[/URL]

This is a bible, and I HIGHLY recommend it. I read this over multiple times before I made my first boost-related purchase, and I'm glad I did.

 

[Esotericimage]

Have you ever driven a lightweight FWD car with 350WHP?

I mean the way your talking, if your pushig 500, then you probably want to invest in a cage and other safety related items.

YOu might also want to look at axles, and tranmission that can handle that power goal...

Sure you can build a 500hp beast, but it does you no good if the powertrain cant handle it.


Going fast isnt cheap. The more power you have, the weakest link will let you know what to replace when it breaks.

I know 2 transmission builders who can get you set up for whatever your building the car for. If you want to keep it street only, then you should leave it around 300whp as youll have traction issues on street tires.

 

[B18cya99]

Tuning is key on any turbo setup. To much timing = blow up. Simple as that. As far as sleeving the block in my opinion isn't a big deal under 600hp if u have a good stand alone ecu and a tuner who knows what he's doing. I've made over 500hp for years on built stock sleeved b series. But keep in mind that I take care of my stuff and not driving it to the max every single day or sec my ass is in the driver seat.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Bullshit, that Greddy 15g can not push enough air to make 300whp on a d series unless the WG is welded shut and it's spiking 25psi but choking itself down to 11psi.