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DIY: Replacing 96-00 EK Civic Wheel Bearing

Discussion in 'Wheels / Tires / Brakes / Suspension DIY How-To's' started by Black Magic, Sep 9, 2010.



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  1. Black Magic

    Black Magic I'm Rick James, bitch Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Canada
    I know this is probably straight forward for most mechanically-inclined people, but it may be beneficial to other noobs like me.

    Tools you'll need:
    - hammer(s)
    - 10mm, 17mm and 32mm sockets and wrench
    - torque wrench
    - impact wrench (optional)
    - philps screw driver
    - jack
    - jack stands
    - new wheel bearing
    - hydraulic press
    - plypar (optional)
    - patience!!!
    - 3 cotter pins (for each front wheel)

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    To replace your wheel bearing, basically we gotta remove the knuckle from your car. The following diagram illustrates the three nuts (A, B and C) that need to be removed to set knuckle free

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    Directions:

    1) If possible, remove the centre caps from your wheels in order for the 32mm axel nut to become visible and crack that baby loose. If you don't have centre caps or if this isn't possible for some other reason, don't worry, you can do this later when the car is raised and wheels are removed. Note: It's a b***h to remove this axel nut because it's in there really tight, so you'll have to put some muscle into it. Use either a long wrench or an impact wrench. I used both!

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    2) Raise the car and put it on jack stands. If you couldn't remove the axel nut for the above reasons, do it now.

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    3) We will proceed by taking off the brake caliper. There are two 17mm screws that mount the caliper to the knuckle. Remove them

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    4) After the caliper is off, remove the brake rotor. There are two philp screws that hold it in... you may need to use an impact wrench if you've never removed them before.

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    This is what everything should look like now... caliper, rotor and axle nut removed

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    5) Now we need to take off the three castle nuts presented in this diagram. They all have cotter pins which also need to be removed.

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    Note: In the following image, you can see the rotor, but this should already be off.

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    6) If your car has ABS, you will need to remove the sensor from the knuckle. There are four 10mm bolts.

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    7) Now CAREFULLY take out the knuckle. You may need to use a prybar for the castle nut under the lower ball joint. The axle should slide right out. If it doesn't, tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer.

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    You can see the wheel bearing by turning the knuckle backwards

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    8) In order to take out the wheel bearing, you will need to first press out the hub and then after removing the c-clamp, you can also press out the wheel bearing. I had a friend do this for me since I don't have a hydralic press. I've seen some people use a hammer and a few large washers to do this. Part Source or some other automotive shops also have a tool you can usually rent to do this.

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    The following is taken from a thread on HT explaining how to remove the hub and wheel bearing manually and pressing in the new bearing (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2685054):


    Here is my new bearing purchased from Honda and installed. On that note, I would recommend buying OEM parts because I am doing this to replace an aftermarket wheel bearing I got about 1.5 yrs ago.

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    9) Install the knuckle and ABS sensor following the steps you used to take it out (in reverse order).

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    10) Don't forget to make sure everything is tightened to spec. Also make sure you use NEW cotter pins for the three castle nuts you removed.

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    A - 29-35 ft-lbs
    B - 33 ft-lbs
    C - 36-43 ft-lbs


    11) Install your rotors and brake calipers. My mounting bolts for the calipers had to be tightened to 40 ft-lbs, but I think the stock ones should be around 80.

    [​IMG]


    12) Tighen the axel nut, making sure the pivot sits in the correct spot (You will need to push it in using a hammer and something that's not too sharp). Note: I tightened the axle nut after taking the car off jack stands since it needs to be on really tight. You can also have a friend apply the brakes while you tighten it (when the car is still raised).

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    13) Put the wheels back on, lower the car from the jack stands and you're all done! Now go for a test drive!
     
  2. lotz6996

    lotz6996 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    nice write up, never thought of using the threaded rod. this will also work for the 5th gen civics, they are about the same. and probably some of the others but ive never seen theyre front susp.
     
  3. Billy.

    Billy. Has returned ;-) Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    did you need an alignment after?
     
  4. Jersey8

    Jersey8 B20: Detroit Muscle! Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    nice write up. be sure to swerve from side to side a little when on a test drive to load the new bearings properly
     
  5. Black Magic

    Black Magic I'm Rick James, bitch Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Thanks guys

    No, I didn't need an alignment afterwards. I actually got one not too long ago so thank god I didn't have to get another one.
     
  6. knightxrider1

    knightxrider1 New Member Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    good write up
     
  7. EK1.6LCIV

    EK1.6LCIV bustin' out the OEM goodz 5+ Year Member

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    very very good write up =) what are the bearings worth in your state?
     
  8. Kensai

    Kensai ♪♫♪♫♪~ Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    Thanks for the write-up!
     
  9. rufio275

    rufio275 New Member

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    Good write up. I have a question. I had two mechanics price the job for me. One said a 2000 Honda Civic didn't need pressed and the other said it did. The difference in price for labor was doubled. Is the first guy right? Does it technically not needed pressed, but pressing makes it stronger? Or is he just wrong and would do the job incorrectly?
     
  10. Black Magic

    Black Magic I'm Rick James, bitch Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    If you're taking about replacing a front wheel bearing, it needs to be pressed in. Some people will just replace the whole spindle, in which case you don't need to press in a new bearing because you already have one (inside the new spindle).

    The process of inserting the new bearing in the spindle is called "pressing it in". There are many ways to do this, but I don't see how you can completely skip this step if you're replacing the wheel bearing.
     
  11. bungtater

    bungtater New Member

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    Just joined the site to say THANKS for the great writeup!

    I recently bought a 99 Si with a bad rear hub bearing (REAL LOUD). Replaced it only to NOW hear I have a bad front! It's been about 10 years since I've done a front in anything so your writeup was a great refresher. I had the knuckle out in less than a half hour. I'll press out the hub and bearing next chance I get and then re-assemble. I will post up upon completion! TYVM;)


    Update..... All done and good. Also replaced the driveshaft as it had a ripped boot. About a 1 hour job.
     


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