eg questions (several different ones)

xHanzJay

Lulzaflopter
1993 cx hatch, dx swapped. (d15b7 + 5 speed power nothing, no a/c no p/s)
full exhaust, intake, a6 cam, adjustable cam gear

looking for info on these things :

1. shifter feels really sloppy, in gear it wiggles a lot while driving and going over bumps. I don't remember it being this sloppy.

2. my input shaft bearing is going bad, I know that's the issue. what happens when it actually fails?

3. what's a cheap priced clutch that's a little better than oem?
(prefer whole clutch kit) what's the most a stock d series clutch can handle. I've been piecing together a turbo kit and hoping for like 230ish whp.

4. my tach sometimes reads off randomly. generally its perfect or 500 rpms too high (shows redline at 7k instead of 6.5)

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civhatch92

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Sloppy shifter is the bushing.. not too bad to replace.
 


xHanzJay

Lulzaflopter
where is the bushing located? is there an upgrade for it?

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lethal6

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RonJ

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2. my input shaft bearing is going bad, I know that's the issue. what happens when it actually fails?
Ummm...your car stops moving.

4. my tach sometimes reads off randomly. generally its perfect or 500 rpms too high (shows redline at 7k instead of 6.5)
I didn't read anything solid here^ saying that there's anything wrong with your tach.
 

xHanzJay

Lulzaflopter
Instead of sitting back waiting for an answer, why not look for reviews yourself? Hint: they aren't very good quality.

https://www.google.com/search?q=autocom+junk+clutch+kit&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb#channel=sb&q=autocom+clutch+kit+review&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&safe=off

Why risk running junk when you can go with one that is tried and true, like exedy or CC?
none of those are really reviews though and the only one relating to honda said it was decent (the first link)
and money is an issue, and i want to do the whole clutch kit so that's why i was looking at that ebay one

Ummm...your car stops moving.
i meant more is the axles going to shoot out of the transmission and destroy everything in their path, or the wheels lock up on the highway, or the transmission just stops turning the axles without doing any other damage or potentially causing a car crash

I didn't read anything solid here^ saying that there's anything wrong with your tach.
you don't think that intermittently the RPM gauge being off by 500 rpms is an issue?
 

lethal6

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none of those are really reviews though and the only one relating to honda said it was decent (the first link)
and money is an issue, and i want to do the whole clutch kit so that's why i was looking at that ebay one
Doesn't really matter if the reviews are for another car make, the brand of the clutch kit is the same, isn't it? Do you think they use a different manufacturer or supplier for a different car model? It's all the same stuff.

I would consider threads talking about how bad they are and what junk they are would be a review, but maybe that is just me.

Money is an option? I understand that. More of a reason to save up and do it right instead of doing it twice when the junk eBay kit fails prematurely. Again, maybe that is just me, but when I dig into a job like this...I damn sure don't want to do it again because of inferior products.

Excedy isn't that expensive. Not for a honda.

I have broken 2 now. My 1st was a stage 3 that the disk shattered(not even 1k on the disk). two of the little bars that hold the outer hub section to the main disk around the springs popped off and caused the rest of the disk to seperate. The most recent went out with 2400 miles and aabsolutly no launching. It was a stage 4 Pressure Plate, with the stage 2 street disk. The disk burst with no launches once again(It was rev'd out a few times)one of the rivets on the friction surface came loose.

I bought this clutch, the AUTOCOM Stage 2 Clutch Kit 381-75025, off of Ebay. Turns out the Pressure Plate doesn't line up exactly right. It is off about 1/4 of an inch.

there's a reason they are priced so low.

There are a lot more, but I don't have time right now.

Here is an excellent known good OEM replacement brand for a very good price. Might vary when you put the vehicle year in, but shows you the comparison. With flywheel it puts it...what...$20 more and you go with a KNOWN good brand instead of knock off junk. Just sayin.

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-08022-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DCO4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
 
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xHanzJay

Lulzaflopter
You could destroy the transmission.

Post a video of the malfunctioning tach.
if all it does is ruin the transmission, that's fine, i have a replacement but i just haven't had the time to do the replacement (i plan on doing it all at once with a new clutch-kit and rear main seal that's why i've been asking about clutches). but i still daily drive the car, i don't have an option there.

i'll see what i can do about the tach video

in this video you can see that the tach goes all the way to 7k rpms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1th671Q3cY even though it's a stock p06 ecu that redlines at 6.5k (that's an ex speedo/tach)

so sometimes it shows redline at 7k, and other times a normal 6.5k but the engine isn't actually ever revving to 7k, it just shows 7k on the speedo. make sense?
does it really matter? no probably not. but i'm just trying to figure out why it would do that.

so basiclly... engine spark cut is 6.5k
sometimes tach shows spark cut at 6.5k, sometimes 7k, but even when it shows 7k spark cut on the tach, the engine is only turning 6.5k. the engine never actually gets to 7k. just the tach THINKS the engine is at 7k.
 


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