How To: build a 13s Civic for under $3000
(courtesy of the geniuses over at www.sohchonda.com thanks guys!)
"There is no replacement for displacement."
"How fast do you want to go?"
"How deep are your pockets?"
"The faster you start is the faster you will be."
All these are sayings you will here in the world of racing. There is one that supersedes them all.
"BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK"
That is really the name of the game isn't it? From John Forces team to your driveway project, everyone has a budget. How you spend the funds available is the key to the et's you will produce.
That being said; you will have to understand that you will NOT be able to buy the highest dollar JDM motors, parts, or dress up accessories for the dollar amount that is budgeted in this write up.
THE CAR
The cheapest car that is available to you should almost always be the 1st choice. There are a few things to consider when buying.
Condition: It will be helpful if the car runs. This way you will be able to tell if the car will need any maintenance that will cost you after the project is started. A goods straight unibody is a must.
Age: Newer cars will not always be the best choice. The dollar amount will significantly increase for newer year models.
weight: This will be one of the most important factors in choosing a Civic. Newer cars are heavier. However, generally speaking, older Civics will typically weigh less but have less aftermarket support. This takes us to the next consideration.
aftermarket support: Any civic from 1988 will have unlimited aftermarket support. Although having a '79 civic with a new model motor will win a ton of respect. It will not be cheap or easy to create or make fast.
STEP ONE: LEARN TO DRIVE
Driving skill is one of the most over looked steps in creating a fast car of any make. A C5 Corvette will not be that fast in the hands of a novice. There have been a numerous races lost, that should have not been lost, because of lack of driving skill. Get in a fast car with an experienced driver. Watch and learn. Then practice those techniques in you stock Civic. Whats more, this fits the core of the Alternative Honda ideals, since practicing driving takes very little money.
If nothing else remember one of Honda's own slogans "Man maximum, Machine minimum."
STEP TWO- RESEARCH
One of the most common mistakes when 'modding' a car is aftermarket parts. You have seen some people that have maxed their credit cards at pep boys and ended up with a slow car
Find someone that has already built a fast car, and ask questions. Most racers are more than happy to help with ideas and problems. It doesn't have to be your make or model of car. Most improvements are not brand specific. You can find allot people here with vast amounts of 'go fast' know how.
At the power levels we are discussing factory Honda parts will get you there 90% of the time. There is more respect in a low E.T. than in having extra stickers.
Last of all BUY A MANUAL! or at least down load one.
STEP THREE- PREPPING THE CAR
Remember "Man maximum, Machine minimum." ? Well is starts here. Power to weight ratio is the most important aspect of a fast car. A car can have loads of HP, but be loaded down with heavy stereo equipment. That car will not be as fast as it could be.
Weight reduction is a very personal topic. The lighter you make your car the faster it will be. You have to ask you self what can I live with out. Rear seats? Carpet? Dash? stereo?
A good rule of thumb is 100lbs=.10sec
The next item in this formula is control & feel. To drive fast, the car must feel like an extension of yourself. Some things will be set to you personal liking, but here are a few tips.
Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. If you have to push the pedal to the floor you will not be able to shift fast. You will also put more strain on the already weak shifting forks. If you have a hydraulic clutch make sure that there are no leaks and the system is properly bleed.
Make sure the gas pedal is also properly adjusted. The throttle body might not open fully if there is too much slack.
STEP FOUR- Keep prepping the car!
Very few aftermarket parts are need to set a car up at this level. There are a few that are almost a must.
The stock motor mounts are designed for comfort and reduced vibration. They are not meant with stand the rigors of drag racing. If you have a older Civic more than likely they are already busted.
Energy Suspension makes polyurethane inserts that will stiffen the engine enough for most applications. This is highly suggested. 3M automotive window caulk will also work if the $20-$30 price range is just to steep for the inserts.
For the ultimate in drive train stiffness, with stock parts, B&M's shift stabilizer is a great addition. It will replace the rubber bushings in your stabilizer rod. This will solidly connect your transmission to the center sub-frame of your Civic. Have you ever heard of Mustang owners talking about sub-frame connectors. It is the same principle.
www.bmracing.com/
There is of course a second benefit of the shift stabilizer kit. A more stabilized shifter. This will take the ‘squishy' feeling out of your shifter and give it more of a ‘rifle bolt' feel.
Combined with a cheap strut tower brace the front of the car will be extremely tight, and all but eliminate wheel hop.
STEP FOUR- TIRES
The hard truth is street tires and drag strips don't get along. A set of slicks would be great. Unfortunately drags slicks are expensive. For the budget racer $300 it takes to buy the tires is tough chew. Not to mention the cost of the rims.
Drag radials are the next choice. While they don't hook at the track like a set of true tread-less slicks; You can drive them legally to the track. If this is your weekend only car they might be the only tires you need. Once again they are expensive. Expect to pay around the same price as you would for a set of slicks. Also if you are still rolling the stock 13"or 14" rims you will has severe trouble finding them to fit.
The last tire choice is r compound tires. These won't hook, depending on tire, at the track as well a set of drag radials. They can be easily found to fit the stock 13" rim. They can be allot cheaper. If you auto cross or road race they will be a good all around tire for other forms of racing.
If you decide to go with r compound tires I must suggest the Kuhmo Estsa. They are a very soft compound and a good all around race tire. They price for about $80 each at the Tire Rack.
STEP FIVE- transmission, clutch, axels
A manual transmission is highly recommended for several reasons. First they are geared much closer than a Honda auto. Next they require less time and money to handle the same strains, and perform like a stock 5spd. With practice you will be able to shift faster and harder than a race built auto.
Depending on the vehicle you purchased, or where given, the transmission you use will vary.
In any make or model, besides 99 , the si transmission is the best choice. The only real difference, from dx or lx, is the final drive ratio. Depending on the year model Civic you have the lower, higher numerically, will feel like extra horsepower.
If you have an super economy model like the hf or std a transmission swap is highly recommended. It is proven that a 13 sec et can be had with a std, 4spd; but it is very difficult.
The clutch is the next point of interest. A stock Honda clutch is a very tough piece. If it in good shape you can run at this power level. If it worn it is a good bet to go with an aftermarket clutch like Centerforce dual friction. This can be had a most speed shops or mail order for around $250.
www.centerforce.com/
Stay away from cheap auto parts store clutches. They will NOT be able to hold the power as well as even a stock piece.
Last but not least is the axles. No aftermarket part or modifications is in order is your axels are in good running condition.
(courtesy of the geniuses over at www.sohchonda.com thanks guys!)
"There is no replacement for displacement."
"How fast do you want to go?"
"How deep are your pockets?"
"The faster you start is the faster you will be."
All these are sayings you will here in the world of racing. There is one that supersedes them all.
"BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK"
That is really the name of the game isn't it? From John Forces team to your driveway project, everyone has a budget. How you spend the funds available is the key to the et's you will produce.
That being said; you will have to understand that you will NOT be able to buy the highest dollar JDM motors, parts, or dress up accessories for the dollar amount that is budgeted in this write up.
THE CAR
The cheapest car that is available to you should almost always be the 1st choice. There are a few things to consider when buying.
Condition: It will be helpful if the car runs. This way you will be able to tell if the car will need any maintenance that will cost you after the project is started. A goods straight unibody is a must.
Age: Newer cars will not always be the best choice. The dollar amount will significantly increase for newer year models.
weight: This will be one of the most important factors in choosing a Civic. Newer cars are heavier. However, generally speaking, older Civics will typically weigh less but have less aftermarket support. This takes us to the next consideration.
aftermarket support: Any civic from 1988 will have unlimited aftermarket support. Although having a '79 civic with a new model motor will win a ton of respect. It will not be cheap or easy to create or make fast.
STEP ONE: LEARN TO DRIVE
Driving skill is one of the most over looked steps in creating a fast car of any make. A C5 Corvette will not be that fast in the hands of a novice. There have been a numerous races lost, that should have not been lost, because of lack of driving skill. Get in a fast car with an experienced driver. Watch and learn. Then practice those techniques in you stock Civic. Whats more, this fits the core of the Alternative Honda ideals, since practicing driving takes very little money.
If nothing else remember one of Honda's own slogans "Man maximum, Machine minimum."
STEP TWO- RESEARCH
One of the most common mistakes when 'modding' a car is aftermarket parts. You have seen some people that have maxed their credit cards at pep boys and ended up with a slow car
Find someone that has already built a fast car, and ask questions. Most racers are more than happy to help with ideas and problems. It doesn't have to be your make or model of car. Most improvements are not brand specific. You can find allot people here with vast amounts of 'go fast' know how.
At the power levels we are discussing factory Honda parts will get you there 90% of the time. There is more respect in a low E.T. than in having extra stickers.
Last of all BUY A MANUAL! or at least down load one.
STEP THREE- PREPPING THE CAR
Remember "Man maximum, Machine minimum." ? Well is starts here. Power to weight ratio is the most important aspect of a fast car. A car can have loads of HP, but be loaded down with heavy stereo equipment. That car will not be as fast as it could be.
Weight reduction is a very personal topic. The lighter you make your car the faster it will be. You have to ask you self what can I live with out. Rear seats? Carpet? Dash? stereo?
A good rule of thumb is 100lbs=.10sec
The next item in this formula is control & feel. To drive fast, the car must feel like an extension of yourself. Some things will be set to you personal liking, but here are a few tips.
Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. If you have to push the pedal to the floor you will not be able to shift fast. You will also put more strain on the already weak shifting forks. If you have a hydraulic clutch make sure that there are no leaks and the system is properly bleed.
Make sure the gas pedal is also properly adjusted. The throttle body might not open fully if there is too much slack.
STEP FOUR- Keep prepping the car!
Very few aftermarket parts are need to set a car up at this level. There are a few that are almost a must.
The stock motor mounts are designed for comfort and reduced vibration. They are not meant with stand the rigors of drag racing. If you have a older Civic more than likely they are already busted.
Energy Suspension makes polyurethane inserts that will stiffen the engine enough for most applications. This is highly suggested. 3M automotive window caulk will also work if the $20-$30 price range is just to steep for the inserts.
For the ultimate in drive train stiffness, with stock parts, B&M's shift stabilizer is a great addition. It will replace the rubber bushings in your stabilizer rod. This will solidly connect your transmission to the center sub-frame of your Civic. Have you ever heard of Mustang owners talking about sub-frame connectors. It is the same principle.
www.bmracing.com/
There is of course a second benefit of the shift stabilizer kit. A more stabilized shifter. This will take the ‘squishy' feeling out of your shifter and give it more of a ‘rifle bolt' feel.
Combined with a cheap strut tower brace the front of the car will be extremely tight, and all but eliminate wheel hop.
STEP FOUR- TIRES
The hard truth is street tires and drag strips don't get along. A set of slicks would be great. Unfortunately drags slicks are expensive. For the budget racer $300 it takes to buy the tires is tough chew. Not to mention the cost of the rims.
Drag radials are the next choice. While they don't hook at the track like a set of true tread-less slicks; You can drive them legally to the track. If this is your weekend only car they might be the only tires you need. Once again they are expensive. Expect to pay around the same price as you would for a set of slicks. Also if you are still rolling the stock 13"or 14" rims you will has severe trouble finding them to fit.
The last tire choice is r compound tires. These won't hook, depending on tire, at the track as well a set of drag radials. They can be easily found to fit the stock 13" rim. They can be allot cheaper. If you auto cross or road race they will be a good all around tire for other forms of racing.
If you decide to go with r compound tires I must suggest the Kuhmo Estsa. They are a very soft compound and a good all around race tire. They price for about $80 each at the Tire Rack.
STEP FIVE- transmission, clutch, axels
A manual transmission is highly recommended for several reasons. First they are geared much closer than a Honda auto. Next they require less time and money to handle the same strains, and perform like a stock 5spd. With practice you will be able to shift faster and harder than a race built auto.
Depending on the vehicle you purchased, or where given, the transmission you use will vary.
In any make or model, besides 99 , the si transmission is the best choice. The only real difference, from dx or lx, is the final drive ratio. Depending on the year model Civic you have the lower, higher numerically, will feel like extra horsepower.
If you have an super economy model like the hf or std a transmission swap is highly recommended. It is proven that a 13 sec et can be had with a std, 4spd; but it is very difficult.
The clutch is the next point of interest. A stock Honda clutch is a very tough piece. If it in good shape you can run at this power level. If it worn it is a good bet to go with an aftermarket clutch like Centerforce dual friction. This can be had a most speed shops or mail order for around $250.
www.centerforce.com/
Stay away from cheap auto parts store clutches. They will NOT be able to hold the power as well as even a stock piece.
Last but not least is the axles. No aftermarket part or modifications is in order is your axels are in good running condition.
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