I'm not sure where to look next...

[civicnewgirl91]

So I have a 91 civic dx that I just had the engine swapped out. I got the car back in july and since I have had it I have had what sounds like a misfiring problem when its sitting idle and it has just gotten worse. The check engine light started coming on after I drove it for an average of 2 miles. In the last week or so it has gotten so bad that it shakes badly sounds like its getting ready to cut out. Then it wouldnt start so I jumped it and then it wouldnt go over 45 mph and wouldnt start again after I shut it off. I changed the spark plugs and wires and it seemed to fix the not being able to go X mph for like 12 hours but the check engine light still came on. Then my lights started flickering which is a sign the alternator isnt working right so I take it out and go to get a new one and they test it and say that its just fine. Im not sure what I need to look at next but I am losing my patience very quickly for this damn car.

Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wreckless Hype]

So when you make a tech post, put what the actual issue is in your topic so you can get the help you need, quicker.

Also, if you have a CEL on, probably a good place to start, right there. Pull the code, get back to us.

 

[lethal6]

Thread Makers: Thread titles must summarize the technical question or problem, and the first post must include the year, trim, and any mods for your Civic.

If your cel is on, pull the code. There is a reason it is on, the car is trying to tell you something is wrong.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

So I have a 91 civic dx that I just had the engine swapped out. I got the car back in july and since I have had it I have had what sounds like a misfiring problem when its sitting idle and it has just gotten worse. The check engine light started coming on after I drove it for an average of 2 miles. In the last week or so it has gotten so bad that it shakes badly sounds like its getting ready to cut out. Then it wouldnt start so I jumped it and then it wouldnt go over 45 mph and wouldnt start again after I shut it off. I changed the spark plugs and wires and it seemed to fix the not being able to go X mph for like 12 hours but the check engine light still came on. Then my lights started flickering which is a sign the alternator isnt working right so I take it out and go to get a new one and they test it and say that its just fine. Im not sure what I need to look at next but I am losing my patience very quickly for this damn car.

Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.

There is more than one issue that could cause that, it is not always the alternator.


Pull the code, get back to us.

 

[civicnewgirl91]

The light doesn't blink at all

 

[lethal6]

...The check engine light started coming on after I drove it for an average of 2 miles....:

The light doesn't blink at all

So the CEL is coming on or not?

Still haven't said what engine and mods done. This is a waste of time for everyone involved until proper information is provided.

 

[civicnewgirl91]

I did it earlier and it came on but it didn't blink I just did it and when I turned the key it blinked once and that was it. It's a d15b2 no mods

 

[lethal6]

You have to pull the codes. It doesn't just automatically blink when you turn the key on. That on/off right away is just to show you it still works and that it is ready to store and report codes for you to pull.

Google how to pull the codes on your specific ecu.

 

[civicnewgirl91]

So i finally got it to blink and it blinked 20 times and I looked it up and it said it was the electronic load detector which I don't have at all in my fuse box so now I'm back to square one. I really don't understand why the ecumenical would give me a code for something I don't have

Ecu not ecumenical

 

[lethal6]

What was the corresponding code that it threw? A lot of the codes have more than one reason for being on.

Nevermind. I was thinking 5th gen and up. The previous gens don't have codes like those do.

Code 20 means that you have low voltage somewhere within the system. Some people have found that replacing the under hood fuse box fixes it, others had different resolutions. Search google for honda civic code 20 and look through all the threads that come up. There are tons of them.

BTW, it is throwing the code because you swapped the engine out. That is a VERY common code to be thrown with OBD1 and swaps.

 

[civicnewgirl91]

Ok so I'm really getting fed up with this car. I have changed the o2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor and I'm still have the spuddering when I'm at a stop and the lack of go like it's bogging down and gonna cut out. The ecu is no longer giving me a code so I'm not sure what the f**k is wrong with her. Any ideas?

 

[lethal6]

Why did you replace those items? Neither one would give symptoms like you are describing.

Bogging and sputtering is usually a spark or fuel problem. Can't even begin to tell you how to fix it as there isn't enough information to go off of. This could literally be anything and I am betting a huge guess that it has to do with the swap. Sounds like someone just threw it in and didn't really know what they were doing.

What is the fuel pressure? What about the compression? Is it getting bright blue spark at every plug? Is the timing correct? Are all the vacuum hoses clean and free of breaks, tears, or cracks?

Again, it could be anything. Hell it could be a bad ecu or one that isn't compatible with the swap that was done.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Check your voltage with the car off and running


Check all your chassis grounds

Do everything Lethal said as well.

Did you reset the ecu? When did it stop showing codes?