Knock sensor

[xxsenceo89x]

So I changed the head gasket on good ol reliable about 3 months ago. I dropped the intake manifold on the knock sensor and broke the plastic part off of it. Lucky me. This was a day before I left for Germany. My dad threw in a new knock sensor about 2 months ago for me. Light came back on. Car was shipped to Germany and I just got it here about a week ago. I went ahead and put a new knock sensor in today. I drive a little bit and CEL is on again. I checked the wire with a test light from the ecu to the sensor and its good. I could wiggle it around and my test light stayed on. Ive been using these $20 aftermarket knock sensors if it matters. Only other thing it could be is the ECU. It never had a problem prior to me breaking the sensor off.

Cliff notes
Military orders sent me to Germany.
Broke knock sensor p0325 code 23.
2 new knock sensors and code still there.
Wire from ecu to sensor is good.
Used aftermarket sensors from different suppliers
Car had no CEL prior to breaking sensor.

Does this thing need to be on there super tight? Super loose? Maybe i can wrap a wire around the sensor and run it to a ground? Maybe these sensors are just pieces of s**t? Im trying to avoid $150 for a new one. I need this to pass inspection asap. Any input would be awesome.

 

[RonJ]

How did you secure the sensor to the block?

Not sure how you are testing the wire with a test light. Use a multimeter to Ohm test the wire for a short or open. If the wire tests fine, then the ECU is bad.

 

[xxsenceo89x]

How did you secure the sensor to the block?

Not sure how you are testing the wire with a test light. Use a multimeter to Ohm test the wire for a short or open. If the wire tests fine, then the ECU is bad.

Sensor is in its factory spot near oil filter. Im limited to tools here. I stuck a wire in the knock sensor side of the plug and put it to ground. I hooked the test light up to the positive side of the battery and put the pointed side into the pin out on the ecu plug. Im drifting towards a bad ground from the sensor or f**ked up sensor. Alldata says to change the ECU if all else fails but if it was fine prior to this I dont think thats it.

 

[RonJ]

Unplug the ECU and knock sensor side of the wire and use a multimeter to Ohm test the wire for a short.

 

[xxsenceo89x]

Unplug the ECU and knock sensor side of the wire and use a multimeter to Ohm test the wire for a short.

I did a version of this with a test light. Light didnt go out when I wiggled the wire around.




In case anyone looks in the future. People have had problems with cheap aftermarket knock sensors on Hondas. Going to try an OE Honda sensor. Just putting this out there cause I wont remmeber to post up whne im done.

 

[RonJ]

What year and trim Civic? Is it stock?

I did a version of this with a test light. Light didnt go out when I wiggled the wire around.

Until you use the correct tool (a multimeter) to test the wire properly, an intermittent short or open in the wire or in a connector between the ECU and KS remains possible. An adequate multimeter is very inexpensive compared to the cost of the two knock sensors you purchased.

And nothing that you've said rules out a bad ECU either.

I can't speak about the aftermarket knock sensors that you purchased, but the fact that you've tried two already makes them less likely to be the source of the problem.

 

[Szady]

Ive never had an issue with oe sensors. They're cheap, used. I'd use an oe sensor first, Walter. Then go from there.

- Szady

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