"Kurisutin" - 1993 Civic Del Sol - Maintenance Log

[dancam]

Yeah, the top of the window just meets weatherstrip on the roof.


If I try to go painting the car at some point, I'll do it with the intent of doing it right. Otherwise there's no point
And really, if I find money to paint the car, I'll find money to properly replace the weatherstrip and window assemblies.

I tried applying Shoe-Goo to the ripped sections of weatherstrip today. It dried to match the shape pretty well, but doesn't appear to be sticking to the rubber.

So in the pursuit of fixing the cabin leak:
- I see tears and rips in the weatherstrip that may let water through.
- And a misalignment where the driver side window doesn't match the frame anymore; which could also be letting water in.
- Maybe something unknown. Like a cracked seam (which was the case on my Mothership/Civic).

I'd like to fix both of those first two issues, but I really still don't know how water's making it's way into the cabin.

I also took the door panel/trim off to take a look at the window assembly on the driver side. Was hurried to leave for class so I don't have any pictures, but I can't find the cause of the window being out of alignment. When rolled up, the back corner of the window sits about half an inch too high to seat correctly in the weatherstrip. I'll try to get some pictures later.

Lame, lol. I hate adjusting those... Never done a desol but if you remove the door panel it should be fully adjustable there. Make sure to adjust your door to how you want it if its not right before doing the window. Have you tried googling how to adjust a frameless window?


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[buzzbombtom]

Its full of silicon. Causes fisheyes in paint.


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huh? there is no silicon in armor all...

 

[dancam]

Then its changed. 3 years ago there was. Or is it 4 already? Wow... But anyway, there used to be. Good to know it changed.


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[ctag]

Alright, back with pictures this time. The Shoe-Goo dried better than I expected, but still flakes off pretty easily.

The window is driving me nuts. The driver side door on the Mothership has warped on the hinges over the years, and now the latch hangs about a half inch low, which makes closing the door jarring. I thought the same was going on here, but the del sol door appears to line up pretty well.

Lame, lol. I hate adjusting those... Never done a desol but if you remove the door panel it should be fully adjustable there. Make sure to adjust your door to how you want it if its not right before doing the window. Have you tried googling how to adjust a frameless window?

I took the panel off, but don't see anywhere I can adjust things. There are bolts that can be loosened and then pushed sideways to get the motor assembly free from the door frame, but I don't think those can be used to make the window level again.. I also tried searching for window adjustment, but didn't find much.

The ripped seam that I suspect is allowing water in. Repaired for now.

 

[dancam]

Took me like 90 seconds on google. Just like any other frameless window cept only one bolt to adjust with instead of 2.


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[ctag]

Took me like 90 seconds on google. Just like any other frameless window cept only one bolt to adjust with instead of 2.

Thanks. I found it and adjusted it all the way down. The window's a lot closer to fitting correctly, but still catches on the metal guard more often than not.

It looks like a lot less water's going to make it into the cabin for now, so I went ahead and installed a seat cover and steering wheel wrap. The seat has a pleather type exterior and regular fabric under that, so I decided to cut the damaged exterior off, and put the seat cover over the remaining fabric.

I hadn't noticed until now, but the seat is totally rotted out.

I also took the interior door handles apart. Both are cracked, so I'm going to try epoxying them back together.

I finished stitching on the steering wheel cover tonight. It took several hours, way way longer than I wanted to spend on it.

 

[HockeyZombies]

Try Quaker State Defy oil. It will clean up engine internals in older cars and its high mileage formula with 50 percent synthetic. Got some carbon going on. Try and use Gumout All in 1 or Redline si1, they got PEA cleaners to help remove that carbon. No Seafoam, Lucas of Marvel products. They are cheap and only remove coin from your wallet.

 

[ctag]

Try Quaker State Defy oil. It will clean up engine internals in older cars and its high mileage formula with 50 percent synthetic. Got some carbon going on. Try and use Gumout All in 1 or Redline si1, they got PEA cleaners to help remove that carbon. No Seafoam, Lucas of Marvel products. They are cheap and only remove coin from your wallet.

Huh, I'll give the oil a shot. I generally use Seafoam, but not really due to any brand loyalty. Will have to look into it, but additives are small fries on this operation.

I should also mention that when I crank the engine cold and start driving, the CEL comes on. But when I stop and try to get the thing to give me a blink code the CEL doesn't come back on I might just leave that pin jumped and wait for the next time it happens.

 

[dancam]

Huh, I'll give the oil a shot. I generally use Seafoam, but not really due to any brand loyalty. Will have to look into it, but additives are small fries on this operation.

I should also mention that when I crank the engine cold and start driving, the CEL comes on. But when I stop and try to get the thing to give me a blink code the CEL doesn't come back on I might just leave that pin jumped and wait for the next time it happens.

Its been a long time since my obd1 threw a cel but it used to be real quick and then go off so i think i would shut the car off and coast to a stop and check it. Im having a hard time remembering, lol.
Just be careful with additives, they can help sometimes but they can also lead to an engine rebuild or replacement pretty fast. Happened to me :/


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[ctag]

Bought some Permatex "Plastic Weld" two-part epoxy for the door handles. Had a moment to apply it today, and I'm very impressed. Set in about 5 minutes and appears to have adhered quite well.

I tried setting some sturdy chicken wire inside the lip of the handle to act like re-bar in concrete to firm up the area. The first piece was much too large, and I quickly settled to a workflow of applying half of the epoxy, setting a 2" piece of wire in the crook and then covering it with epoxy.

I epoxied both sides of both handles, even though only three of the four sides were cracked through.

Next up will be fixing the little grommet for the locking hook. I think I'll try some putty type epoxy for that, build up the area and then drill out where the hook goes.

 

[dancam]

With your window still going too high- is the door in perfect alignment? How well do the bodylines on the door match up with the rear quarterpanel? Is the moulding on the roof where it hits off at all? Is the glass sitting all the way down in the regulater? Its not out of square there? If those are fine maybe you have to slot the hole a bit longer on the adjustment. Its most likely something else out of alignment though


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[HeX]

@ctag, none of your pictures are showing.

 

[buzzbombtom]

@ctag, none of your pictures are showing.

Thought I was the only one

 

[ctag]

With your window still going too high- is the door in perfect alignment? How well do the bodylines on the door match up with the rear quarterpanel? Is the moulding on the roof where it hits off at all? Is the glass sitting all the way down in the regulater? Its not out of square there? If those are fine maybe you have to slot the hole a bit longer on the adjustment. Its most likely something else out of alignment though

The door doesn't look aligned to me, but I can't see how it could be better. From post 49 the gap between the door and frame looks large. Other than that the body lines match pretty close. I suspected that the moulding may be to fault, but it also matches the passenger side very closely, it doesn't appear to be bent or out of place. I don't know if the glass is properly seated in that track, that's something to mess with. I agree that something else is likely at fault, the window regulator did not want to be adjusted as far down as I put it, so I don't want to gouge that channel out and move it further.. but we'll see.

@ctag, none of your pictures are showing.

Thank you! I could see them, because I'm logged in, so I would have never noticed. Google's photo "app" isn't really the best image delivery tool Should be fixed now.

Thought I was the only one

I'll just use emojies to convey everything from now on. At least they don't decide to change privacy settings without telling me

 

[HeX]

Now the pictures are visible... and those handles definitely need to be retired soon. At least fixing them buys your time to find good ones.

 

[ctag]

Now the pictures are visible... and those handles definitely need to be retired soon. At least fixing them buys your time to find good ones.

Yup. I'll probably keep them longer than I should though, my focus is to get the interior usable and then really try to make the drivetrain solid and repair the front end.

It was a nice day out today. Got the car off the ground and found a lot more oil all over the underside of the engine bay. I know there's still the oil pan leak, but I'm worried there are more.

Engine mounts are shot.

The trunk needed some TLC. Cleaned it out, dried it, and put a small coating of WD-40 to try and discourage more rust.

The spare wheel cover was totally shot.

So I found some scrap showerboard and drafted a quick vector of the old board.

It's a little too small. The original was all warped, so the measurements I took were off. But it'll work for now.

The broken roof latch, reassembled.

And glued. With some sanding it fit pretty well.

Put putty epoxy on the lock tabs inside each handle. Later I'll drill them out and see if the locking rod will fit.

That's all for now.

 

[HeX]

Save some money by fixing the motor mounts using 3M WindoWeld.

 

[brandonwaltersmi]

More power to you, doing an excellent job so far

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[HockeyZombies]

Rust in a trunk caused from moisture can be a pain. Just like painting a house; keep surface clean and dry. If you can find some moisture capture packets like whats found in medicine or gun safes that will help keep moisture down.

 

[ctag]

Save some money by fixing the motor mounts using 3M WindoWeld.

Never heard of the stuff before, looks like the right ticket though I already bought replacement mounts back in January, but I'll keep this in mind.

More power to you, doing an excellent job so far

Thanks!

Rust in a trunk caused from moisture can be a pain. Just like painting a house; keep surface clean and dry. If you can find some moisture capture packets like whats found in medicine or gun safes that will help keep moisture down.

Yeah, I definitely want to keep an eye out for the rust spreading. I bought a re-usable humidity pack online, hopefully it'll help keep things dry.

Had an absolutely gorgeous day outside. Couldn't waste it, so I tore out the seats and cleaned the carpet.

Polished the headlamps.

Mm, clean

I was tired of having the floor mat slide up under the pedals while I drove, so I bolted it down to the floorboards.

The shoddily-sewn steering wheel cover. I like it enough that I may cut it off and sew it back on properly.

All back together.

Cool. Now to go catch up on homework!