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main bearings

Discussion in 'Engine Tech / Drivetrain' started by TiiM iiS l3eAsT, Jul 4, 2009.



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  1. TiiM iiS l3eAsT

    TiiM iiS l3eAsT Scamming Piece Of Shit Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    ok well i found out i have spun 3 main bearings....

    i know the crank isnt good...

    now i was wondering....what about the top main bearings ?? where the crank is still holding them in....are those gonna be messed up to ??

    also what is the best way to find out main bearing sizes ??

    i know plastiguaging for the rod bearings....but what about the main bearings ??

    ALSO....

    can the crank come out without taking out the engine ??

    i know transmission has to come out....but what about the engine ??

    i dont really feel like taking the engine out again...so if there is a easier way to do this then let me know !!
     
  2. 31dev31

    31dev31 Chillin' Canadian Member Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    You can pull out the tranny, then pull the crank from underneath with the engine still in the car, but you'd have to remove the head so that you can correctly install the crank afterwards. I believe the front and rear mounts can support the engine while the driver and passenger mounts can come out, but you should support the engine from the top anyways.

    To find out the bearing sizes, you can measure the diameter of the bearing races on the crank.

    Plastigauging is only to verify proper torquing and ensuring the job was done properly.
     
  3. Szady

    Szady D-Series Master Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    Pull the tranny, somehow support the engine (w/out the tranny there to hold it up, you somehow need to support it, b/c the rear mount isnt there anymore so your left with just the drivers side mount), then you can pull the crank out. Honestly, I would just pull the entire engine out. It'll be 10000x easier to measure for new bearings and install everything again.

    As far as measuring for new main bearings, you measure the same way you would for rod bearings, with a plastiguage. If the upper main bearings (ones in the block portion) look good and are still within spec, leave them. But, then agian, if your replace 1/2 of them, might as well replace all of them at once.
     
  4. TiiM iiS l3eAsT

    TiiM iiS l3eAsT Scamming Piece Of Shit Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    why would i have to remove the head to install the crank lol ??
     
  5. 31dev31

    31dev31 Chillin' Canadian Member Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    So that you can move the pistons to bolt on the connecting rods to the crank.
     
  6. cheezeonmakneez

    cheezeonmakneez love unicorns Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    You know that the pistons can move if you push/pull from the bottom right?
     
  7. TiiM iiS l3eAsT

    TiiM iiS l3eAsT Scamming Piece Of Shit Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    lol thats what i was thinking ....
     
  8. PhntmSk8r

    PhntmSk8r H23VTEC Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Idea:

    Dont be lazy and just pull the motor. If you just work on it, and get it done instead of trying to avoid it you'll save yourself the headache of trying to do s**t upside down, and working in a confined space. Plus if you have to drop the tranny, and pull the head... you might as well just pull the motor. Makes it a s**t load easier to work on

    two people (you and a buddy) should very easily be able to pull a single cam in 60-90min without any problems.



    Im a little confused as to what you're asking about with the 'top of the bearing' holding the crank in?

    If the bearing actually spun, the top piece will be welded/melted to the bottom piece (assuming its even still in there) and it also likely chewed up the journal on the block and in the main caps, which also means you should absolutely pull the motor and take it to a machine shop. You'll likely have to get slightly oversized bearings once they fix the chewed up journals.
     
  9. TiiM iiS l3eAsT

    TiiM iiS l3eAsT Scamming Piece Of Shit Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    well heres pics of the bearings...

    crank:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    main bearings:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. PhntmSk8r

    PhntmSk8r H23VTEC Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    looks to me like you over torqued the girdle and didnt do it in the right sequence. Something is not right, if you spun the bearings the two parts of them would be welded together as one (most likely)
     
  11. cheezeonmakneez

    cheezeonmakneez love unicorns Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member 10+ Year Member

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    Just get some superglue and call it a day
     
  12. TiiM iiS l3eAsT

    TiiM iiS l3eAsT Scamming Piece Of Shit Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    not sure.... i didnt assemble the motor together..... i gave all the parts to my builder which is an excellent stock honda builder....but im not to sure if hes good with high performance....i think he made the clearances too tight.....but im not sure ....

    but ya he assembled the motor....then i put it back in the car lol...
     
  13. daniel86

    daniel86 New Member 5+ Year Member

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    Great set of pictures.
     
  14. PhntmSk8r

    PhntmSk8r H23VTEC Registered VIP 5+ Year Member

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    Clearances are clearances. Wont matter if its 'performance' or 'stock'

    From what i've seen some of the all motor/turbo guys usually go for the tighter end of spec if possible.

    Maybe yours were at the tighter end, then he over torqued the girdle? not sure...

    Thats why you should always build it yourself, then you know what you did wrong and can learn from it :P
     
  15. Szady

    Szady D-Series Master Registered VIP Registered OG 5+ Year Member

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    :werd:
     


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