Need help with main and rod bearings

[c_osorio]

I bought the (color coded) bearings from the dealer using the codes I got from the block and the crankshaft, I torque 2 of the pistong rods first and went to turn the crankshaft using a socket attached to the pulley and it didn't turn that easy, then I torque other 2 piston rods and now I can hardly turn the crankshaft what's going on, this is the second set of bearing I buy, first set were after market and I read that the problem was the after market bearings and that is why I proceeded to purchase the correct ones from the dealer so what is it that I'm doing wrong? the torque is what is specified in the book, 23lbs. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wax Hands]

Did you even plasti-gauge the bearings? Checking the clearance of the bearings.

Also I am assuming that you did put assembly lube or use oil to lubricate the bearings right...?

If you did all of that you need to check the runout of your crankshaft. You will need a dial caliper to so. Basically you but the bottom half of the bearings in the motor. Place your crank in the motor. Do not put the crank caps on. Put your dial caliper in place and rotate the crankshaft. The needle on the caliper may move thousnadth of an inch. However if it moves more than what is allowed inside the service limit that your crankshaft is bent.

 

[c_osorio]

Yes I did all that, crank is good, I only changed the bearings because I put new piston rings. crank turn fine before that.

Thanks!

 

[lotz6996]

your bearings might be too thick. its possible they gave you the bearings for a turned crankshaft and yours wasnt.

 

[Wax Hands]

Has to be the bearings. The stamps on the block are for when the engine is new. If the motor was low mileage you would possibly use that and not have a problem. Since you just replaced the rings I assume the crank is original then. Really you shouldn't be having a problem.

Maybe you didn't use the chart correctly and got the wrong bearings. Sad this is the dealer wont take those back and Im sure you paid about $200 for all those bearings. Damn things are expensive from the dealer. Usually around $8 for each bearing half. Not including the thrust washers.

Typically thrust washers generally only come in 1 size as well.

If you did get the wrong size bearings and decide to buy another set of new ones save yourself some cash and get Kings, ACL or Clevites.

 

[lotz6996]

i got all of my bearings from summit racing. they fit perfect. and i spent $100 for both the main and rod bearings.

 

[Wax Hands]

Ok from my understanding is that you have purchased two sets so far and you are still having the same problem.

Did any of the original bearings show any wear at all? Galling for example?

if everything is plasti-gauged correctly and clearances are good. Reverify the runout on the crankshaft. Not just the endplay, endplay wont cause this problem.

is there any unnatural coloring of the steel crank caps or irregular wear on the crank bearing surfaces on the block?

 

[c_osorio]

I'm sure about getting the correct bearings, the old ones look like they were still good, maybe I should put those back I don't know if it's a good idea, the engine had 140k+ miles, it sucks that after going thru after market and then OEM I still can't get it done. it's frustrading.

 

[c_osorio]

Has to be the bearings. The stamps on the block are for when the engine is new. If the motor was low mileage you would possibly use that and not have a problem. Since you just replaced the rings I assume the crank is original then. Really you shouldn't be having a problem.

Maybe you didn't use the chart correctly and got the wrong bearings. Sad this is the dealer wont take those back and Im sure you paid about $200 for all those bearings. Damn things are expensive from the dealer. Usually around $8 for each bearing half. Not including the thrust washers.

Typically thrust washers generally only come in 1 size as well.

If you did get the wrong size bearings and decide to buy another set of new ones save yourself some cash and get Kings, ACL or Clevites.

Where do I get Kings, ACL or Clevites bearings?

Thanks!

 

[Wax Hands]

Where do I get Kings, ACL or Clevites bearings?

Thanks!

Probably find them cheapest on eBay. just make sure you let the seller know what size you need. You can get any of those three from any aftermarket website as well. Just have to give them a call.

 

[sohclubkid]

oh jeez... i have a feeling this is going to turn out bad.

 

[boosted to 26ps]

your problem lies in the rings most likely. check the gap in the rings...if the rings are to big you won't notice a problem till you install the piston assembly. I've ran into this problem myself before an its identical to what your saying.

step 1. remove all the pistons
step 2. torque the main caps an turn the crank.

checking the rings is easy.. install pistons upside down an check how easy they move in the cylinders

if it turns easy its the rings...to check the rings tighten a ring compressor around then an check to any ring sticking out further than the piston. it'll be by a minute amount so you'll need a keen eye to spot it, but it'll be just enough to put too much tension on the walls, making extremely hard to turn the crank.

 

[Wax Hands]

^^ Good point.

If it wasnt checked before installing the pistons it should have.

Easy process to do. Put your compression ring in the cylinder and use the piston to make sure the ring is flat and even. Then use feeler gauges to check the gap between the two edges. Refer to the manual for the spec.If you need to widen the gap place a fine file in a vice then open the ring and run it down the file. Make sure to clean any burs.

Repeat that step until all are spec.

 

[c_osorio]

What if I put the old rod bearing back?

 

[c_osorio]

I didn't mention that the ring I bought were aftermarket, should I get them from the dealer?

 

[boosted to 26ps]

I didn't mention that the ring I bought were aftermarket, should I get them from the dealer?

you dont have too....but especially with aftermarket rings you always ALWAYS check the ring gap...and correct when needed.

 

[Wax Hands]

I didn't mention that the ring I bought were aftermarket, should I get them from the dealer?

Na dont waste your time. The majority of rings and bearings are constructed nearly the same exact way. The biggest difference is the name on the box when you go with standard level bearings.

Now when you step up to "race" bearings the formula starts to change up a bit.

Rings are pretty straight forward as well. The majority of compression rings are some sort of chromely steel.

What if I put the old rod bearing back?

There is this old adage that I love and live by; "If it isn't broke, dont fix it.".