Need to replace leaking transmission oil seal for driver-side axle

[RonJ]

Car: Bone stock 97 Civic DX, manual transmission

My Civic recently developed a transmission oil leak from the hole where the driver-side axle inserts into the clutch housing, so I plan to replace the oil seal (see diagrams below). I already ordered the seal from Majestic Honda ($6.83), but I have some questions about the job. I obviously don't want to drop the transmission to replace this seal. Any helpful pointers or mention of common mistakes to avoid would be appreciated.

From anyone familiar with this job:

1) What's the best tool for removing the old oil seal? I have read about people using various tools, such as a screw driver, cork screw, or oil seal puller.

2) Is limited access/space in this area an issue? I plan to remove the axle, exhaust pipe A , and the engine stiffener. Will this suffice or must additional parts be removed?

3) I suspect that draining the transmission fluid is a must for this job. Is this correct?

4) What's the best tool for installing the new oil seal? I have read about people using a hammer with a socket having a size that matches the outer diameter of the oil seal. Or is there a better tool? What type of oil or grease should I coat the seal with prior to tapping it into place? How will I know when the oil seal is fully/properly seated?

I'm looking forward to input from my Club Civic comrades. Also, if anyone knows of a good DIY for this job, please post a link.

 

[JCCLARK]

I've repalced a few of them, but it was while the engine/trans was out of the car.
The seals came out pretty easily and drove in pretty easy too.
Much easier than some cars I've done so I don't think you'll have a problem.
The seal stops when driven in all the way. It won't go farther.
I've used big sockets but a small wood board worked even better.
Just something that covers the entire seal.
If you drive it flush, it's enough, sometimes they will go just a little more.
I just used a screwdriver, on stubborn seals of other cars I have screwed a
sheet metal screw into the metal rim of the seal and pryed it out by that.

 

[RonJ]

I've repalced a few of them, but it was while the engine/trans was out of the car.
The seals came out pretty easily and drove in pretty easy too.
Much easier than some cars I've done so I don't think you'll have a problem.
The seal stops when driven in all the way. It won't go farther.
I've used big sockets but a small wood board worked even better.
Just something that covers the entire seal.
If you drive it flush, it's enough, sometimes they will go just a little more.
I just used a screwdriver, on stubborn seals of other cars I have screwed a
sheet metal screw into the metal rim of the seal and pryed it out by that.

Thanks JC. All helpful information. I especially like the wood and sheet metal screw ideas.

(By the way, I wish I had the skills and tools to do the body work that you do.)

I don't want to drop the transmission to replace an oil seal, so does anyone have experience doing this job with the transmission in place?

 

[RonJ]

For anyone interested, here are responses I got at other forums:

real simple job, just jack it up remove wheel and axle, then lay under car and use a screw driver and pop seal out, then rub some oil on the new seal and i use a small block of wood or something and tap it with a hammer to pop it and make make it flush, dont pop it all the way in, just til its flush with trans casing.

This probably can be done with the exhaust pipe in place, also shouldn't need to take the axle all the way out of the car, leave the nut on the hub end and pull it out of the transmission. Of course it will be easier the more parts you remove. You don't have to drain all the fluid, some will run out when you pull the seal then just top it off with new fluid after reassembly.

It's important to push only on the outside edge of the seal and to push it in straight. Like 94 said, it should end up with the rubber flush with the metal on the outside. Apply transmission fluid to the part of the seal the axle touches before installing the axle, no one wants a "dry lip."

Edit and yes you could jack the car up unevenly so all the fluid will run to the other side, but it is dangerous to work under a car that is supported in that manner. Put jackstands under both sides and expect a few oz of fluid to run out.

I just did the drivers side on my 92 Si, although it's got a B swap, it should be the same concept.

No need to remove anything more than the axle. I jacked up and supported the driverside on a jack stand, leave it there for 15 minutes prior to pulling axle and you shouldn't need to drain trans fluid. I found there to be plenty of room to work under there after the axle was removed.

I used screwdriver to remove old seal.

I have used an old 4x4 hub socket wrench, anything the same O.D. as the seal will work. But this time I got lucky and was able to slide the seal in place by hand this time.

As long as the seal sits just below the outer machined surface of the trans housing, thats as far as you need to go in with it. Don't sink it too far or you will have problems and make sure that the new seal is not cocked to one side or the other.

I just gave it a little rub down of trans fluid on all surfaces of the seal before installation, doesn't need to be dripping oil, just enough to get it to slide into the trans opening.

Hope this helps, I am sure you will get lot's more replies as everyone does it a little different, took me all of 25 minutes start to finish.

yeah i'ld drain the fluid so to not have a surprise leaking on you while under the car.

A screwdriver or a tiny pry bar is what i used to get the seal out.

As for putting the new one in i had no socket as large as the seal so i used my small "bob the builder" hammer and gently tapped around the seal till it was in and make sure its not crooked as tlarimer said and that its even with the outer casing otherwise you'll have a not so fun leak if its pushed all the way in

You don't need to drain the tranny. If you jack the car up high enough.

Use a small punch to bend the neck of the axle nut out of the grove in the axle while the car is on the ground. Then break the torque on the axle nut.

Then jack up the car. After you remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint, lossen the nut (do not remove it all the way) and hit the LCA with a 5lb hammer until the ball joint pop's out. You can only tell if it breaks loose by testing with your hand to see if it's free. Slide the axle out of the hub.

Then remove the nut and bolt from the bottom of the Shock fork.

Pop the axle out of the tranny by prying outward on the tranny.

I think you can figure the rest out.

Hint, PB Blaster and Anti-sieze compund are your friends. USE THEM.

Other hint, a impact works great on the lower ball joint nut.

 

[tCtCtC]

I'm about to do this myself, and I found this DIY very useful.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=382416

I also called a few different Honda dealerships, and you don't need to grease or oil the seal. Just push it right in. From what a guy at Honda was telling me, theres already a type of silicone around the seal so when it heats up it'll set properly, but do be sure to put a little fluid on the inside of the seal where the axle meets the transmission. You can pull the old seal out by just pulling it out with anything.

 

[RonJ]

I'm about to do this myself, and I found this DIY very useful.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=382416

I also called a few different Honda dealerships, and you don't need to grease or oil the seal. Just push it right in. From what a guy at Honda was telling me, theres already a type of silicone around the seal so when it heats up it'll set properly, but do be sure to put a little fluid on the inside of the seal where the axle meets the transmission. You can pull the old seal out by just pulling it out with anything.

Thanks. The link has an excellent axle replacement DIY, but nothing on replacing the transmission oil seal.

 

[tCtCtC]

I haven't been able to find any DIYs on replacing just the seal, only threads with advice and no pictures. Your best bet would be to just follow what everyone has been telling you. I'll post anything I find, but another thing the guy at Honda told me was just pull it out with anything, and if you don't have the tool required, just use a piece of wood and a hammer. Just take your time and be patient with it.

 

[RonJ]

I haven't been able to find any DIYs on replacing just the seal, only threads with advice and no pictures. Your best bet would be to just follow what everyone has been telling you. I'll post anything I find, but another thing the guy at Honda told me was just pull it out with anything, and if you don't have the tool required, just use a piece of wood and a hammer. Just take your time and be patient with it.

Thanks. Yeah, I do think I already have a lot of good advice. I feel ready when the oil seal arrives on Tuesday.

 

[Deezy]

Each and every day, so many of us look to you for answers to our problems, because you have them....I'm sure to most of us it's shocking to see that you dont know everything !!!! I't truly reflects on your character as man, not to be to proud to ask for help when needed....Just sayin

 

[RonJ]

Each and every day, so many of us look to you for answers to our problems, because you have them....I'm sure to most of us it's shocking to see that you dont know everything !!!! I't truly reflects on your character as man, not to be to proud to ask for help when needed....Just sayin

^^^Thanks Deezy.
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Update. My transmission oil leak is now fixed. After pulling the axle to access the oil seal, I found that the axle boot was split, so I also replaced the axle (lifetime warranty = free).

Taking out the axle was all that was needed to remove the old oil seal and install the new one. The oil seal was easily popped out with a screw driver. It took me 10-15 minutes to install the new oil seal flush with the transmission. This was done by gently tapping on a piece of wood placed flatly against the seal. Being prepared to install the new seal immediately after removing the old seal will minimize the loss of transmission fluid, which steadily leaks from the transmission when there is no seal in place.

My cost for repair = $6.83 (oil seal) + about $6 (1/2 quart of Honda MTF) = about $12 total

 

[VSP]

^^ Good to hear. Glad you're all fixed.

 

[RonJ]

Next project:

Engine oil is leaking from the weep hole at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover. I just replaced the oil pan gasket without any effect on the leak, so it's time to replace the front main oil seal and the camshaft oil seal.

I love removing the crank pulley.