New trouble codes OBD II

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
I'm beginning to wonder if I bought a POS here.....:(

I have an AEM intake and a stock VTEC engine....

Since I've bought it, I've replaced:

1. Thermostat (old one stuck open)
2. 02 sensor (front)
3.Spark plugs
3. Fuel filter
4. rear Shocks and brakes

Last friday, right after I cranked it up the CK engine light came on and the speedo went nuts.

I checked fuse 15 (7.5 amp) and it was blown.....just changed it, no speedo difference.

Went to Auto Zone to run the codes and they came back with (not in this particular order)

P0170
P1298
P0135 and
P0141

So, it seems to me that one or two things are wreaking havoc.....

What do I do and where do I start?

i have a friend who is a good mechanic, so if I can have him check specifics, I know he could do something....

I'm hoping for some quick answers...I've been out of work for 3 months on Workers Comp and going back Monday and MUST have my daily driver operating!

Thanks
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
Hmmm...I'll respond first.....

I just checked fusebox and fuse 15 under dash had blown again....and when I looked at the pdf manual (thanks - downloaded from clubcivic, fuse 15 is the fuse for.....

Alternator,VSS.ELD unit {USA),EVAP purge control solenoid valve, oxygen sensors, TCM (CVT).....

So there.....

Would this mean that either I have a short in that harness under the intake manifold? Anything else to look at??
 


mitka

New Member
5+ Year Member
All indication so far that this wire harness under intake manifold needs to be checked first

Hmmm...I'll respond first.....

I just checked fusebox and fuse 15 under dash had blown again....and when I looked at the pdf manual (thanks - downloaded from clubcivic, fuse 15 is the fuse for.....

Alternator,VSS.ELD unit {USA),EVAP purge control solenoid valve, oxygen sensors, TCM (CVT).....

So there.....

Would this mean that either I have a short in that harness under the intake manifold? Anything else to look at??
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
My mechanic is gonna be here shortly, I will tell him this and if he has time, we will go from there....

Thanks again......
 


daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
Well, we're looking at it and the wiring harness looks good and is not rubbing against the bracket nor anything else.....

I did find that some of the fuses under the hood are not the correct one, though #15 (7.5a) was correct. I'm thinking of putting in 10 there to see if it will hold.

If harness is OK, then what? ELD? What is that? Alt?

If I had Honda diagnose it, would it cost an arm and leg? I'm just tired of working on it all the time and just want to drive it!
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
We tried everything listed on fuse 15, removing connection one by one and fuse continues to blow....

We're stumped!

ANYBODY??

Update: for the heck of it, stopped off at auto zone by my house before going home and had them test my alt....First it showed my battery was bad (never an inkling of a problem) and then says the alt is giving out only 1.0 amp.....my guess is because fuse 15 is blown that a false reading will be outputted...OR the Alt IS bad, causing my problem??
 
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mitka

New Member
5+ Year Member
This sucks!

1) Make sure you replaced all blown fuses.

2) alternator check:
- shut off the car. check battery voltage. Should be like 10.5 -11.5 volts. Start the car, check the voltage on
battery terminals. Should be like 13.5-14.5 volts - alternator works.
or
- start the car, disconnect battery, engine should continue running. All electrical stuff should work. Yes - alternator is good.

3) VSS check:
- simple check - get new working VSS, install, if problem persists - you VSS was OK. Return new VSS to the shop/dealer for your money back. You have problem with short somewhere.

But if you have blown fuses most probably you have a short. I am sorry that this short is not under intake manifold. As it is it could be anywhere.
 

mitka

New Member
5+ Year Member
If you run out of ideas you can take your car to a dealer. They have to be able to diagnose it for $50. That is they will be able to say exactly what is wrong with the car and give you an estimate of repair work. At this point you are free to walk away and fix it yourself or let them fix it.
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
Yeah, thanks....I am going to do the alternator check tomorrow. I did unplug the VSS wire (not remove it from tranny) and then re-inserted the fuse; still blows. The way I am testing it is just remove one of the items listed under fuse #15, insert fuse then turn key on (not starting). So far, the VSS, O2 sensor, ELD and solenoid were tested individually; each blew a fuse. Tomorrow is ALT check. if that fails to show me, then Wednesday morning I will be bringing it to the dealer for them ti diagnose.

Talk about frustrations........:?:
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
I did the Alternator check; cranked, removed negative battery cable and the car died.

Alternator appears to be bad.....that can overload the fuse, right?? So, best to change alt first? Question: the dash does not show indication of a bad alt 9charging system), so maybe misreads going on?

Should I unhook the cable to the alt and then put in a fuse to see if it blows?
 
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daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
Update...

I unplugged the alt and it still blew a fuse.

I will be bringing it to the shop in the morning and will keep y'all updated, but I believe it is a short somewhere..
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
Well, this is what has transpired today.
Took it to the dealer; lights flickered all the way to the dealership (15 miles) and I was concerned that the battery would give out before I'd arrive. It made it.

Service advisor took it in. It shows 121k on the odo, and he showed me a bulletin that i was entitled to a free tuneup and oil change, so I said sure...go ahead. That was quick.

Assessment came in after technician messed with the fuse box/wiring for about 30-45 mins and came back with an ugly verdict: the under hood fuse box/eld was fried and that 'whomever had the car before made a lot of wiring changes', then said that if i were to fix it, it would take countless hours and possibly $1000+ to complete the task. They did not charge me for the diagnosis. I did ask about he TSB regarding the C15 wiring harness shorting (blowing fuse 15) under the intake manifold and he replied that this tsb does not involve my car (??).

So, I just drove it home (yep, it made it), parked it, transferred insurance to my 92 Mitsubishi 'mighty max' and went about my business.

So, what am i gonna do? Well, right now, I'm just gonna sleep on it. There is an electrical place about 10 miles away that I may take it to one day to see what he has to say. Advisor suggested I get rid of it, but to do so, I do not want to dump a headache on someone, so I just may put it out in the paper for about $2000 and mention that it has 'wiring needs',

Pretty grim, huh?
 

mitka

New Member
5+ Year Member
Sorry to hear that. Looks like you got a lemon.

I suggest that you replace the wire harness completely. Replacing should be easier than fixing exiting one. Do some research of what is involved and do it yourself. Since you have second car you have time to think it through carefully.
 

NoWayBack91Si

New Member
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
So i didnt read all of the posting but it sounds like a problem i ran into...check the wiring harness under the intake manifold. Get under there and start electrical taping all the wires. From the heat coming off the manifold, the wires may have melted and causing exposed wire. This was a recall from Honda i believe awhile ago. From the factory when the harness was assembled and what not they didnt use wire loom or some sort of covering for some of that harness. So again from the heat of the manifold its causing this. With the wiring harness there will be 2 big plugs somewhere. I believe they are both grey, both blue, or one blue and the other grey. I would tape those as well.

Also, check the VSS sensor. Maybe take it out and clean it. And make sure it is plugged down and snaps in position. If it comes loose enough or isnt snap down good enough then the FUSE 15 will blow. After you make sure the sensor plug is connect well, start your car...then replace the FUSE 15 while the car is running. Most times (in cases i've had) if you turn the car off, replace fuse, then start the car back up...it will just blow that fuse right away.

If all this doesnt fix your problem then you might wanna do it take out the alternator and battery and have both of them tested at a local shop. You may have already done this, like i said, i didnt read through all of it. So i apologize for that.
 

daveimme

New Member
5+ Year Member
Yeah, replacing wiring harness seems like the thing to do, but one more thing I mentioned that I will do is simple and cheap (if not free) is by bringing it to an electrical shop that tends to work on these things and see what he finds.....

Thanks to all......Wish me luck as I start searching/pricing harnesses..... :what:
 


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