Rust repair options: 94 2dr

[davisjanderson]

Hey there, reaching out to this community for some help regarding bodywork on my 94 civic coupe.

The rear wheel arches are starting to bog through and the side skirt metal that runs along the bottom length of the car between the two wheels is rusting hard. What do I need to do to fix this?

My initial plan was to cut away the majority of bog/rust in the wheel well/arch, fill the gaps up with some sort of hardening insulating foam, bondo, sand and spray with a thick layer of rock guard (internally on wheel well).

Externally I was planning to bondo and paint (Doing a full paint job this spring) then putting on some fender flares to cover any bs i cut away around the wheel arch and to enhance the looks.

let me know if this is solid or if there is a better way. I got quoted at 1500 a side for professional body work so I'd like to try and do it myself. Thanks,

-Dave

 

[HeX]

Pictures would greatly help the accuracy of our responses. It'll also help clarify your errant usage of the word "bog". I guess you meant that rust is bubbling through.

Using our search function would show you that cutting & grinding off all rust before welding patches is the best way to repair large fender rust issues along with using a sealant primer prior to using bondo to smooth out imperfections before re-prime & paint. Otherwise, you risk hsving the rust returning.

 

[Mr.Baker]

The rear wheel arches are starting to bog through and the side skirt metal that runs along the bottom length of the car between the two wheels is rusting hard. What do I need to do to fix this?

If it is as extensive as I think it is, you might better find another shell.
After 20+ years, these cars tend to rot notoriously in these places.

My initial plan was to cut away the majority of bog/rust in the wheel well/arch, fill the gaps up with some sort of hardening insulating foam, bondo, sand and spray with a thick layer of rock guard (internally on wheel well).

Externally I was planning to bondo and paint (Doing a full paint job this spring) then putting on some fender flares to cover any bs i cut away around the wheel arch and to enhance the looks.

let me know if this is solid or if there is a better way. I got quoted at 1500 a side for professional body work so I'd like to try and do it myself. Thanks,

-Dave

It's pricey from a body shop because it's a skilled craft and not everyone should attempt it.
It takes years to learn how to cut, weld, fill, blend and smooth out lines so you don't see the repair work.
Bondo or body filler I would stay away from, it's not meant to fill large gaps.
I also wouldn't use fender flares to "hide" you work, all that is going to do is, if it does start to rot again, hold in moisture and debris, which will further enhance and continue the rotting process.
Cutting the bad sheet metal out and replacing with new stuff is the way to go to start to ensure you won't have rust bubbles starting again in a year. A big part of success in this is prep work, and knowing how to actually do this stuff so, 1, it doesn't look like a hack job, 2, so it it will actually last.