Temperature Gauge/ Possible Overheating

sjonesd3

New Member
2000 EX

I'm currently trying to figure what is causing my temperature gauge to signal that my car is almost overheating. It happens when in idle for a good minute, or even faster if I'm riding w/ the air on & happen to hit traffic. I know, or at least I think I know that my fan isn't cutting on unless I cut my heat on then the temp gauge drops. I replaced the thermostat a 2nd time within the last year. The 1st one was an aftermarket, bought it when I tried to cut corners. So I figured that was a bad idea & a simple fix to install a new one. Trying to figure out the next step. I'm reading on older posts that it may need to be bled as well as fan issues. Also checked the coolant & no odd color either
 

710times

New Member
Jump the fan switch down on the thermostat housing and that'll make your fan come on when the ignition is on. That'll tell you if your fan works. If it doesn't over heat with it jumped then you know it's your fan switch and if the fan doesn't come on then test the fan

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710times

New Member
I had that problem once also. Made my idle all over the place along with my temperature gauge.

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sjonesd3

New Member
Jump the fan switch down on the thermostat housing and that'll make your fan come on when the ignition is on. That'll tell you if your fan works. If it doesn't over heat with it jumped then you know it's your fan switch and if the fan doesn't come on then test the fan

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Ok thanks. I'll try that tomorrow since I'm off. I would have to grab a 12v to jump it right?
 


sjonesd3

New Member
There's air in the cooling system.

Thoroughly bleed the cooling system - see service manual for instructions.
See I'm wondering because last time I bled it, or at least I think I did it correctly then it would still do the exact same thing. But also wondering if it might've been a faulty thermostat since it was aftermarket
 

sjonesd3

New Member
Also if my fan cuts on when I cut on my heat does that count as the fan not working when it still cuts on?
 

710times

New Member
I'm not good at finding schematics like boofoo is but it's the plug on the thermostat housing. Unplug it and jump the two wires together on the plug with a piece if wire. And then turn your key on. This will make is act as if the engine were warm and needed the fan to come on.

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710times

New Member
If it's cutting out when hot then it could be a faulty fan switch or fan. That's why I said try the fan switch trick first. But as boofoo said you need to make sure all the air is out of the coolant system or that will cause issues

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710times

New Member
Not bleeding correctly will cause a handful of issues. It's happened to me in a hurry. But after properly bleeding the coolant system the erratic idle and temperature gauge went away and everything was smooth. It's super simple.

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sjonesd3

New Member
Not bleeding correctly will cause a handful of issues. It's happened to me in a hurry. But after properly bleeding the coolant system the erratic idle and temperature gauge went away and everything was smooth. It's super simple.

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Oh wow, I'm definitely gonna do that then. I forgot to mention my idle jumping around sometimes
 

sjonesd3

New Member
Ok so that didn't work. I fully bled it. Saw the air bubbles pop up, antifreeze lower & then put the cap back on while running .

*sidenote* A month ago, or whenever I noticed my heater squealing when it was on a low temp during cold weather. Then the squealing would stop when I cut it up higher. Sometimes it would stop whenever I hit a bump hard enough or do the opposite if I hit a bump. Forgot all about that. Could that be the issue or no?
 

710times

New Member
Never heard of a heater squeal unless your talking about the blower motor squealing. Now that you did that try to jump the fan switch on the thermostat housing to see if your fan turns on when you key is on. Your basically shorting the plug out that's what it means by jumping it. Putting a wire to touch both sides on the inside of the plug on the harness.

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710times

New Member
I'm not a professional but that really sounds like your fan switch is out or the fan itself is out. That's where jumping/shorting the fan switch plug. It really sounds like the fan isn't coming on. How is the car running? Check engine light? Anything else going on. Hondas will get hot from something like misfiring so if your cel is on check that. Do you have access to a scanner to possibly look at any codes or pending codes that were previously in the ecu.

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sjonesd3

New Member
You still haven't mentioned anything indicating that you properly bled the system. Did you precisely follow the service manual instructions?

Describe exactly what you did.
Yes I followed it. I have it as a PDF on my phone. I had the car in my driveway which has an incline, cause I've seen posts that says have the front higher than back. Then I took the cap off. Cut the car on to get to operating temp. Cut the heat on, seen the air bubbles come out. After the air bubbles came the antifreeze level lowered & I Put the cap back on.

Was I supposed to leave the cap on?
 

sjonesd3

New Member
I'm not a professional but that really sounds like your fan switch is out or the fan itself is out. That's where jumping/shorting the fan switch plug. It really sounds like the fan isn't coming on. How is the car running? Check engine light? Anything else going on. Hondas will get hot from something like misfiring so if your cel is on check that. Do you have access to a scanner to possibly look at any codes or pending codes that were previously in the ecu.

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I can get a scanner but no check engine light on at all. No problems running. Just sometimes the rpm is low during idle (less than 1000 rpm). And when I get home after driving, sometimes it'll idle high (around 2000 rpm)
 

710times

New Member
Mine idles around 800~850 with the my chipped p28. With the obd2 ecu 750 rpms at warm idle

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sjonesd3

New Member
:brickwall: :brickshead:forgot to top it back off. Checked the reservoir but forgot that. And I'm normally anal about steps too. What was the other step?
 


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