Frankenstein

Twisted1

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Hey guys new here but have a question or 2. I just picked up a 96 civic ex site unseen. Get it home a d man this thing smokes (I thinks rings dues to the black plugs and oil soaked pistons). However the car is currently a d15b8 block with a D16y8 head and p28 ecm. I have a donor d16y7 can I just swap the blocks and call it a day? I've read many articles on mini me swaps and what not but will this just be a straight forward swap? Thanks
 

nd4sped

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Look up the MiniMe swap on this forum. That should answer all the questions you have here. Just read through the tutorials.
 


Twisted1

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Look up the MiniMe swap on this forum. That should answer all the questions you have here. Just read through the tutorials.
I've read it 3 times over I'm just wondering if going from the d15b8 block to a d16y7 block will need any changes not only that ill put pics of the plugs tomorrow if it's for sure rings but it's bad worse than I êver seen
 

nd4sped

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You can try and install new helicoils.
 


Twisted1

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You can try and install new helicoils.
??
Im really just trying to find out if switching from the d15b8 block to the d16y7 block is going to require a new tune or if it will be safe to drive. The only reason Im swapping blocks is the 1.5 has been rings I believe by looking at the plugs and piston tops
 

nd4sped

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Plug in a stock ECU and you will be good to go. Just make sure its a VTEC ECU otherwise VTEC will not work. If you want to DIY your own programmable ECU you can do that as long as you have a OBD1 ecu and conversion harness.

Boondongle and HAMotorsports both make conversion harnesses for OBDII(A or B) to OBDI.
 

Twisted1

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Plug in a stock ECU and you will be good to go. Just make sure its a VTEC ECU otherwise VTEC will not work. If you want to DIY your own programmable ECU you can do that as long as you have a OBD1 ecu and conversion harness.

Boondongle and HAMotorsports both make conversion harnesses for OBDII(A or B) to OBDI.
It has what I assume to be a "chipped" p28 but I haven't opened it and has a conversion harness on it. This is the part I'm confused at. I can't tell if it's actually running good or bad due the bad rings or valve seals. I just wanna plan it out and finish it in a weekend
 

nd4sped

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To determine if it has bad rings or valve seals, you can do a simple leakdown test. Compression test will give you compression values but will not tell you if rings or other components are at absolute fault. Leakdown test will do that though.

Post pictures of the ecu opened up and a good close up of the identification numbers.
 

Twisted1

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To determine if it has bad rings or valve seals, you can do a simple leakdown test. Compression test will give you compression values but will not tell you if rings or other components are at absolute fault. Leakdown test will do that though.

Post pictures of the ecu opened up and a good close up of the identification numbers.
Okay ill take pictures of it tonight after work I appreciate it
 

Twisted1

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To determine if it has bad rings or valve seals, you can do a simple leakdown test. Compression test will give you compression values but will not tell you if rings or other components are at absolute fault. Leakdown test will do that though.

Post pictures of the ecu opened up and a good close up of the identification numbers.
Here are the pictures
 

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nd4sped

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Here are the pictures
Definitely a bone stock P28 ECU. You actually lucked out because P28's are VTEC ECU's and quite sought after as there is no modification needed for VTEC. Plug and play.
 

nd4sped

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Also here are the engine code, head code and pic of the plugs. I did a compression test and the results were #1 155, #2 100, #3 150 and #4 190. I don't have a leak down tester so I'll have to rent one.
Ya someone did the mini-me swap on that D15 by putting a D16Y8 VTEC head on it. Those plugs are very soot contaminated from rich running conditions.
 

Twisted1

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Ya someone did the mini-me swap on that D15 by putting a D16Y8 VTEC head on it. Those plugs are very soot contaminated from rich running conditions.
So is this something that can be fixed with a tune? The car has an innovate afr Guage but the sensor is missing, ill order a sensor and see what the afr's are before I pull it apart too. But still there is something else going on with those compression readings. Thanks for the help so far
 

nd4sped

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Car most likely needs a tune up, thats where I would start. Check the following and replace as needed, fuel filter, air filter, plugs, distributor cap, rotor. Do the following services: inspect and adjust ignition timing, check timing and belt durability. ADJUST VALVES, compression test. Then lets see where the AFR's are and how drivability improves.
 

Twisted1

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Car most likely needs a tune up, thats where I would start. Check the following and replace as needed, fuel filter, air filter, plugs, distributor cap, rotor. Do the following services: inspect and adjust ignition timing, check timing and belt durability. ADJUST VALVES, compression test. Then lets see where the AFR's are and how drivability improves.
Got it thats where I'll start I'm stilling the 1.7 out of the donor in case I need it later. After I get that stuff done I'll post an update thanks
 

Twisted1

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Car most likely needs a tune up, thats where I would start. Check the following and replace as needed, fuel filter, air filter, plugs, distributor cap, rotor. Do the following services: inspect and adjust ignition timing, check timing and belt durability. ADJUST VALVES, compression test. Then lets see where the AFR's are and how drivability improves.
also I've done a compression test and the results were 150, 100, 155 and 190
 

nd4sped

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also I've done a compression test and the results were 150, 100, 155 and 190
That's not good. 190 to 210 is where you want to be. This can also vary with tool bands, but 190 is good. The rest are terrible and Im very conceared about cylinder 2 with 100 psi. 100% need a leakdown test.
 

Twisted1

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That's not good. 190 to 210 is where you want to be. This can also vary with tool bands, but 190 is good. The rest are terrible and Im very conceared about cylinder 2 with 100 psi. 100% need a leakdown test.
I have to rent a tester ill get on it asap
 

Twisted1

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That's not good. 190 to 210 is where you want to be. This can also vary with tool bands, but 190 is good. The rest are terrible and Im very conceared about cylinder 2 with 100 psi. 100% need a leakdown test.
So I got a leak down tester cylinder 1 and 2 were leaking air out of the crank case ran out of daylight for cylinders 3 and 4 but ill check those in the morning. So rings so far is that correct?
 


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