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You don't want 0 toe. You want about .05 total out in the front, and .03-.05 in in the rear. A perfect 0 makes the steering heavy and the car feels loose on the highway.

Rotas are fine. If I came on hard times and needed to sell my volks I wouldn't mind having a set of 15x7 or 16x7 sliptreams with some sticky tires. Black slips look great on white EK hatches. A new set of 15 or 16" rotas usually run ~$400 shipped. It would be hard to pay much more than that...

Yeah, $500 for a timing belt is absurd. My local Honda Enthusiast shop does timing belts for like $150.

Anytime. Glad I could help. A lot of us "older guys" have wasted a lot of time on useless parts. FOR YEARS people learned the hard way that bolt ons on a d-series were pointless. It's a really tragic way to spend money.

Just bought it Sunday and don't need it :( It's in great shape. Spins freely. $80 shipped!! (shipping has gotten expensive!) It will work for a 94-01 integra, any hydro manual b-series swap as far as I know. b16/b18/b20/h2b in 92-00 civic chassis. Turns out the ITR trans i'm buying from...

Well, I've got some news for you. Shy of tearing the block apart, or adding a turbo, you're never going to be happy with the performance of a d-series. Period. It's extremely difficult to extract any power out of them without forced induction or high compression pistons. You'd spend ~$3,000...

What are your goals here? You'd gain a lot more power by switching to a y8 manifold, or swapping the engine. For the cost of an AEM intake and an apexi WS2 catback, you could probably get a b18/b20 swap and you'd be a lot faster than you ever will be even with $2,000 of bolt ons on your...

I'm guessing people have forgotten this: http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=199650

When I sit in the driver's seat you can't stick your finger between the tire and fender. ;) The front springs are a little soft (350lbs) so the front left is ~.5" higher than the left. When I'm in the car it's even. With a passenger the right tire scrubs on turns.

Just because that's what my most recent alignment is doesn't mean it was 2* earlier in the autocross season, and 4* in high school. My old civic was very low.

I want some of whatever you're smoking.

But I do regularly rotate my tires, as everyone should. And I haven't had 4* of camber since high school. ~2* is what I've ran on front and rear lately. And factory spec is ~.5* camber anyway. 0* camber is bad. My point here, is that MOST people with normal drops of 1-3* camber do not need...

Still looks like this, I just haven't washed it in 3 months:

:brokenComputer: And alignment shops will align your car without a camber kit. My car is tucking tire in the front and no gap in the rear and I have 0 trouble getting several of the local shops aligning my car. I did have to argue with the Goodyear guy and tell him he's an idiot. I've been...

This is what I did with my y7 after my y7 manifold cracked (as they often do) You can get a good vibrant/magnaflow cat for $70-90 as well.

A ratcheting wrench is a LIFE SAVER on that part. Good lord I'm so glad I had a set.

Many apologies. I read the first post and assumed he was very much like me when I was that age: I stand behind everything I said. I've lost two friends to "kids having fun on the street." I totally understand the idea of having a car that's fun to drive, I have a car that is exactly that...

I'm patiently looking forward to hearing a national news story about a 17 year old causing a 6 car wreck with 9 fatalities because he was vroom vrooming his economy car around a corner too fast and hit a mini-van head on. Keep that s**t on the track. I can't believe this website lets people...

$450 for good condition koni/GC is a steal. Since you'd rather buy garbage, can you tell me the name of the guy or his email so I can buy the suspension? You spend $600+ on Function&Form and I'll spend the $450 on Koni/GC and sell my current setup and break even. **Edit: You should buy...

I'll be getting AMR next year, so I care <3