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I have finally corrected my idle issue. I had to adjust the throttle "bump stop" screw in order to get it right. Just have to verify manual timing again and its off to the next facet of this project. Thanks for your assistance and by chance would you have a diagram of a Civic's rear door? Mine...

Newb is a fitting term for me. It turns out the high idle was caused by me setting timing from the wrong mark. Timing is advanced. Good news is there are no vacuum leaks.

No CELs.

That's good to know. My speedometer starts at zero when at 20 mph and will not go below that until the car is off. The fact my old one did not do that is what generates this question. Wish I had NOT thrown it away.

I was speaking more for the speedometer, but they both can from the same vehicle and the old speedometer worked fine.

Ok. Can the gauges be calibrated or should I hunt for another cluster, preferably the original DX one, from the salvage yard? There is a 2nd outlet on the rear of the LX cluster that my DX wire harness has nothing for.

The throttle body gasket was the culprit. New one did not cover the same area as the old one. The car is running well again; HOWEVER, the idle still reads high (1100). I adjusted the idle screw on the TB to no avail. My gauge cluster came out of an LX Civic (98); I wanted a tach. Speedometer is...

I tried it and the surging idle didn't go away; however there was a "sucking air" sound when I shut the car off

Thank you BOTH for the assistance. I was back on the sidelines again

I've seen that before on a YouTube video. Didn't think about it because I changed the IACV during our earlier exchanges. I didn't think they would stick so early. Unfortunately, I do not have adequate lighting in my garage to test the IACV tonight. Will post the results tomorrow.

I will check it tomorrow. It is dark out now. How would the IAC get stuck so quickly though? The new one has only been on less than 3 months and I do not drive the car often.

UPDATE: I verified mechanical timing Thursday. The car ran smoothly with the exception of a high idle and minor surge. It was suggested that I test the MAP by unplugging the sensor and see if the car continues to run. It did, so I replaced the MAP and throttle body gasket. The surge returned...

I saw a video on calibrating the tach and speedometer. There was also on resetting the SRS. Going to try both tomorrow and update when I'm done.

Sorry for the late post, but I have some good news. I replaced the gauge cluster with one from a 98 Civic LX (it has a tach), the steering wheel, the VSS and adjusted the TPS. The car idles a lot better now and the gauges work; however the SRS LED stays on and the gauges are off (tach starts...

I will take it apart again Saturday. Sunday I will provide an update.

That was my intent. I will try again aligning the marks with the head instead of the triangles

No photos because I've already reassembled the car. The marks are horizontal even though they do not match the engine marks

I could not open that zip file; however I did find this image. It is a diagram of the timing marks for a D16W1 engine. My set up is almost identical

The car does not idle as rough as it used to, but there is a slight "lope" to it at idle. So I verified my internal timing marks. Both marks on the cam sprocket, with the "UP" facing north, fall just beneath the timing marks (triangles) on either side of the engine. I am unable to have both...

Do I have to turn the car off before I short it?