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Life has been pretty busy lately with work, kart racing league, wedding planning, and now holiday stuff so haven't had much time to provide updates. I am pretty relieved because I was able to spend some time trying to fenagle the nut back in place for the toe compensator bolt. I plan to just...

Well, I finally got the stubborn rear trailing arm bolt out, but it wasn't easy (took me most of Friday night) I welded a bolt onto the rounded off head, it's in a tight spot so it was a PITA to prep and clean it real good and get everything lined up. When the bolt finally started to budge, it...

Thanks man, this is really good info. I think for now since I already have all the parts I will see how they hold up and keep an eye on them for sure. For the Megan front UCA's I am going to look into doing some modifications to prevent the adjustable ball joint from slipping. As for the ES...

Oh yea, every bolt gets anti-seized before it goes back in, started doing that years ago after snapping 1 too many bolts... I know Megan is questionable - the adjustable front UCA's claim to provide +/- 4deg camber, which I've already found is not the case with stock height. I could only get...

Thanks! Got some LS trailing arms in yesterday :cool: I'm excited to get them in, but I'm going to take my time and take them apart, sandblast, and paint. Only issue I'm dealing with right now is getting the old passenger side trailing arm out - one of the main bolts on the toe arm that goes...

Awesome! Not far at all. I miss NJ but I've started a new chapter out here. I try to visit friends and family at least once or twice a year.

I just took the rear trailing arms (drums) out of my 97 hatch. Let me know if you still need drum parts.

Love seeing some bikes on here! Nice find! Good luck

This. For the OP: get a multimeter and start probing the wires the boofoo is talking about for connectivity - between VSS and cluster, and between distributor and cluster. Also invest in a service manual with wiring diagrams in order to assist with this conquest.

You can't go wrong with Kenwood for head units. Polk Audio is the best for speakers IMO.

Congrats on your purchase! Is there anything wrong with the front end specifically?

I grew up in Red Bank. Where you at?

Well, I've been a member here for a long time, and I've owned a 97 CX Hatch since I was 16 (I'm 30 now). It was my daily driver for many years, and I started accumulating other vehicles (bike, truck, boat, etc.). Then the poor car sat for a long time and it was neglected. Through all of those...

Ok cool, let me know. I will be in NJ in July maybe I can swing by and grab it from you, depending where you're at.

I'm interested in the ex 5spd cluster. Is it in good condition and tabs are good? I may be able to do local pickup I visit NJ 2x a year.

Any check engine lights? If so what codes?

Yup, any be series axle. I would shop around for different ones and get whatever is cheapest.

+1 sounds like a rubber noise. Have you checked the condition of the output shaft seal? Have you check the condition of the intermediate shaft seal? What about taking out your axle and checking the cv joint? Since you have the car in the air can you pin point whether the noise is coming hub side...

Did you put on a new manifold gasket when you replaced it? Sounds like the gasket is not sealing 100% in the cold, but is expanding in warmer weather and filling the voids. This would explain why your car runs better in warmer climate.

If torque is what you are looking for, B20 is the answer. I have one in my hatch and I love it. It will get you more torque then any other d or b swap, stock for stock. And you will most likely be able to get a B20 for a better price then a GSR or TypeR...