2002 Honda Civic 1.7, Hot days 90 degrees +, drive, park, then crank no start

JakeHondaCivic2002

New Member
Hello, desperate new guy.
A little background, on very hot days 90 F +, start, run 30 or 40 minutes, park, then crank, no start. Occasional sputter, engine will not start.
Timing belt snapped, sorry, it happened. Engine trashed, most economical solution, used engine 120K miles, runs like a top, installed by my go to mechanic. The first 90 degree day, went out for dinner, parked the car, came out, crank no start. Complete debacle, tow truck arrived 3 hours later, an hour and a half after dark, (key), tried to start before tow and it started right up. In my frustration started throwing parts at it. I do not have a main relay that you can re-solder the contacts on. I have three relays behind the glove box, from left to right, PRG-FI #1, PRG-FI #2, and fuel pump relay (that is what I was told). I replaced them all. Next 90 degree day took the civic out for 30 minute drive and parked in my driveway. 20 minutes later, crank no start. I let the civic sit till an hour after dark, (3 to 4 hours), started right up. Also replaced the cam sensor on the head to the right of the timing belt under the cover, not happy. Next hot day same thing. Check engine light came on along the way, it refereed to the charcoal canister on the gas tank. I thought to myself, if it creates a vacuum in the gas tank because it can't vent properly, that could be it. Of course there was no vacuum in the tank when I took the gas cap off. Back to square one. Started fine after dark.
I guess the only thing I know for sure, is the problem started before the new engine, and continued afterwards.
Anything you can think of will be helpful.
Thank you, jake
 

nd4sped

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Evap Code you got for tank pressure is generally due to cap not sealing or not tightened enough. Ensure you go at least 3-5 clicks.

As for the sputter ignition, sounds like a failing ignition coil. I have had this happen on two Civic's so far. Very similar issue and was due to the coil getting incredibly hot and it was shorting out. Would run fine at or near wide open throttle (WOT) but barely would idle or even die. Pulled the distributor off, inspected the cap, it was fine. Just used an aluminum brush to clean off the contacts.

Saw that the ignition coil was expanding like an old 9v battery. Sure enough the plastic case had cracked and was arcing to the metal case. I also removed the ignition control module (ICM) since i was going to Oriellys to purchase a replacement coil, ICM checked fine.

Even with used engines always inspect the ignition, cooling and timing components. Its usually a good idea to replace the ignition cap, coil, fuel filter, radiator hoses, thermostat, timing belt and water pump when swapping in a used engine.
 




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