2014 SI barely running

jeffrausa

New Member
I have a 2014 SI that is having charging issues. I replaced the alternator and had the battery tested, battery tested ok. she drove the car for a few days, and it started running running rough, and wont go over 25. all of the dash notifications came on. TPMS, power steering, traction control, etc... I towed the car home and put my tester on it and found that it was not charging. I replaced the alternator again. put my meter on it, it shows over 14 volts. she drove it for a day and its doing it again.put my meter back on it and its not charging at all. Is there something in the ECU that tells the alternator to charge? I just cant believe that I put two new alternators on it that were both bad from the factory.
I apologize if this subject has been beat to death on this forum, I'm desperate for answers. Thank you.
 

jeffrausa

New Member
The only code it threw in the obd scanner was a miss fire code. Which I think I might have a bad injector. I've checked all of the coil packs and plugs. And yes the car is all bone stock, except for some lowered springs. The dash doesn't have warning lights, it's the digital readout, but yes, all warning lights remain on while running, which I've read is a low voltage condition. And if I charge the battery, the warnings remain off until the voltage gets low again. Also the car runs fine until voltage gets low.

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Restotech

Respected
Where are you getting the alternators from? I have seen in nissans where aftermarket alternators will not work for long.
 

jeffrausa

New Member
Check for spark at all 4 spark plugs.

Does the code identify a specific misfiring cylinder?

Does spraying starting fluid into the throttle body prevent the misfire?

The ECU controls the alternator. Did you inspect the alternator plug for bent or corroded pins?

When the alternator does not charge, does the charging system warning light stay on while driving?
I do have fire on all 4 plugs, it runs great off idle when the battery is charged. Just at an idle I can hear the miss in the exhaust. And then when the voltage gets low it starts to cut out at higher RPM real bad.
The battery light is not on after I charge the battery with my charger. It seems to come on and stay on after the voltage starts dipping low.
The pins on the alternator are straight clean and tight.
Edit; I don't think the code identified which cylinder was miss firing.
Also, since the ECU controls the alternator, how do I identify a problem? I'm guessing I need to bite the bullet and get it connected to a diagnostic computer huh?

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jeffrausa

New Member
Confusing^

You seem to be saying that the engine runs well at idle but it misfires. Please clarify.



This^ is expected because the engine produces weak spark at low voltage.



What is the voltage across the battery posts when that “battery” light is off versus when it’s on?



Post the actual code(s).



Honda no longer sells factory service manuals. Instead, you rent access by the hour or day. If you pay the nominal fee, you can copy the troubleshooting procedure for the charging system of your Civic.
Actually I said the engine runs well "off idle" meaning above idle.
I don't remember what the code I was getting was, I'll have to borrow my friends scanner again.
When I check the voltage across the battery right after I've charged it up, it varies between 12 volts and about 14-1/2 volts, you can see the alternator kicking in and out on my meter.And then when the battery light comes on, the voltage is less than 12, shut the engine off and it's about 12.

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jeffrausa

New Member
Are you saying that the engine misfires while idling but does not while you are driving the car?

Or by off idle/above idle, do you mean with the transmission in neutral and the throttle pedal depressed?



The charging system clearly works.

Do you have a known good battery to swap in to test whether the battery may be the problem?

Post the actual CEL code(s) after you retrieve it again.



Please explain the significance of this^ observation.
Are you trolling me??
The car misses at an idle, I've said that a few times now. The alternator does charge right after I bring the battery to full with my charger, and then it stops charging. Throwing zero volts when the battery is low does not a working charging system make. The only question you've had that I haven't answered more than once is the codes, which I still don't have.I couldn't borrow the obd scanner yet. Maybe you're just not reading all of my answers. Never mind brother. Thank you for your time, I'm headed to the garage to have it connected to a diagnostic computer.

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jeffrausa

New Member
Are you trolling me??
The car misses at an idle, I've said that a few times now. The alternator does charge right after I bring the battery to full with my charger, and then it stops charging. Throwing zero volts when the battery is low does not a working charging system make. The only question you've had that I haven't answered more than once is the codes, which I still don't have.I couldn't borrow the obd scanner yet. Maybe you're just not reading all of my answers. Never mind brother. Thank you for your time, I'm headed to the garage to have it connected to a diagnostic computer.

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"Please explain the significance of this^ observation".

You don't think that all of the notifications being on is significant enough to mention?

"Or by off idle/above idle, do you mean with the transmission in neutral and the throttle pedal depressed"?

Off idle, meaning any rpm above idle going down the road, or in neutral.

"Do you have a known good battery to swap in to test whether the battery may be the problem"?

As I mentioned in the op, the battery is"known good"

"Are you saying that the engine misfires while idling but does not while you are driving the car"?

It misfires at an idle, runs fine at higher RPMs until the battery gets low, then it starts missing and coughing badly, as I've mentioned a few times already.


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jeffrausa

New Member
How do you know the engine misfires at idle as opposed to having a low idle problem?

Mentioning in the OP that the battery is good does not make it good. Sounds to me like the problem may be a bad battery that can't hold proper charge. Have the battery load tested.
Aside from knowing what a misfire sounds like, there's also the code that says misfire. And yes I've had the battery tested. I stated clearly in the op that I had it tested.It is good.

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jeffrausa

New Member
I will never understand trolls. Why respond if you have no intention of helping?

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civteck

Respected
Registered VIP
I will never understand trolls. Why respond if you have no intention of helping?

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I have not been on here long but trust me he is not trolling you, he has been the most knowledgeable person on here all he is asking you to do is test procedures by the book. If you were to spend the money on a service manual you would be doing the same tests. We are all here to help but by providing the cel codes hes asking for can have 2-10 different potential follow up tests to narrow down your specific problem. I have been working on Hondas 15+yrs but only on mine or friends so i know first hand tricks and such where as Boofoo sounds like and troubleshoots as he works for dealership.
Take a breath and lets all get back to trying to figure out your og issue.

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