4th Gen Info & Specs

[Tom]

INFO
1988-1991

A sleeker and more powerful Civic lineup debuted in 1988. All Civics (except the CRX) rode on a longer 98.4-inch wheelbase. The CRX's wheelbase was increased to 90.6 inches.

A lower hoodline, increased glass area and lower wind drag were functional advantages of the sleeker body styles. A family of new engines complemented the stylish Civics. Power for the DX hatchback/sedan, new LX sedan and the wagon came from a 1.5-liter 16-valve engine that produced 92 horsepower. The base hatchback had a less powerful 70-horsepower version of that engine. The fuel-economy champ CRX HF had an eight-valve 62-horse version of the 1.5 that could go up to 56 miles on a gallon of gas. The standard CRX had the 92-horse engine. A high-performance 1.6-liter 16-valve engine that kicked out 105 horsepower was installed in the CRX Si and Civic 4WD wagon. All Civic engines were now fuel injected. Previously, only the "Si" models had the injection.

A double-wishbone suspension system was used at all four wheels. Inspired by Formula One race cars, this design promoted agile handling and a comfortable ride by precisely controlling wheel travel and keeping the tire's contact patch square to the road surface.

One model departed (the Civic Si hatchback), as a new one, the Civic LX sedan, was introduced. The LX loaded up a Civic sedan with features such as power windows, locks and mirrors; a tachometer; and intermittent wipers. U.S. production for the Civic began this year in Ohio, making it easier for Honda to satisfy America's appetite for its gem of a small car.

The Civic Si hatchback returned for 1989, now with a power moonroof and once again with the same potent engine (increased to 108 horsepower for this year) installed in the CRX Si and the 4WD wagon.

Revised bumpers and taillights identified the 1990 Civic. Hatchbacks received larger reverse (white) lights, and sedans adopted a horizontal taillight theme. An EX sedan joined the Civic family and took its place at the top of the sedan lineup. The EX had the Si's engine, 14-inch wheels and all the features of the LX (which now included cruise control). Four-wheel disc brakes appeared on the CRX as did a slightly revised dash-board (with softer corners and larger instruments) for all Civic models.

The 1991 Civics were virtually unchanged, and this was the last year for the spunky CRX.
Drivetrain
Transverse Inline-4, Aluminum Block and Head, Front Wheel Drive (AWD offered on wagon)
Throttle Body injection (1.6L engines have PFI)


SPECS
Valvetrain:
Sohc 4 valve/cyl.

Displacement
97 cu in./1590cc (Si, AWD Wagon)
91.1 cu in/1493cc (STD, DX, LX, Wagon)

Bore x Stroke
2.95 x 3.54 in./75.0 x 90.0 mm (Si)
2.95 x 3.33 in./75.0 x 84.5 mm (STD, DX, LX)

Compression Ratio
9.6:1 (88-89 CRX HF)
9.1:1 (Si)
9.2:1 (STD, DX, LX)

Transmissions
4spd manual: base 3dr
5spd manual or 4spd auto: DX/LX/2WD wagon/Si
6spd manual or 4spd auto: 4WD wagon

Horsepower (SAE)
62hp@4500 (88-89 CRX HF)
70hp@5500 (base 3dr)
92hp@6000 31/35mpg 5spd (DX/LX 3dr/4dr, 2WD wagon)
108hp@6000 28/32mpg 5spd (Si 3dr, EX 4dr, 4WD wagon)

Torque
83lbs/ft@3000 (base 3dr)
89@4500 (DX/LX 3dr/4dr, 2WD wagon)
100@5000 (Si 3dr, EX 4dr, 4WD wagon)

Fuel Economy
33/37 mpg (STD 3-door with 4 speed manual transmission)
31/35 mpg (DX/LX 3dr/4dr, 2WD wagon with 5 speed manual)
28/32 mpg (Si, EX, 4WD wagon)

Fuel
Unleaded, 86 pump oct.

Chassis & Body

Layout
Front engine/front wheel drive

Body/Frame
Unit Steel

Dimensions (3-Door/ 4-Door/ Wagon)
Wheelbase (in): 98.4 (all)
Length (in): 157.1 / 168.8 / 161.7
Width (in): 66.3 / 66.7 / 66.1
Height (in): 52.5 / 53.5 / 56.1
Curb Weight (lbs): 2127 / 2262 / 2335 (2628 4WD)

Brakes

Front
9.5 inch disc
Rear
7.1x1.0 inch drums
Assist type
vacuum

Wheels
Pressed steel, 14 x 5J (EX)
Pressed steel, 13 x 5 (DX, LX, STD)

Tires
P185/60R-14 82H (EX Coupe, Si)
P175/65R-14 (EX Sedan)
P175/70R-13 (DX, LX)
P165/70R-13 (STD) (???)
P175/70R-14 (Wagon)

Steering
Rack & Pinion
Power Assist (LX, DX Sedan or Si Hatchback w/ Auto transmission) Manual (Si, DX Hatchback or Sedan w/Manual transmission, STD)

Suspension
Front
Upper A-arms, lower L-arms, coil springs, tube shocks
Rear
Trailing arms on upper & lower lateral links, compensating links, coil springs, tube shocks

Hatchback weight (Curb)
DX M/T: 2165lbs
Si M/T: 2291lbs
STD M/T: 2127lbs

Acceleration (Si)

0-30 mph
3.0 secs

0-40 mph
4.4 secs

0-50 mph
5.9 secs

0-60 mph
7.6 secs

0-70 mph
10.3 secs

0-80 mph
13.1 secs

0-90 mph
16.5 secs

0-100 ft
22.1 secs

0-1320 ft (1/4 mile)
16.4 secs @ 84 mph


Standard Equipment

1.5L TBI 16 valve 70hp, 4spd manual, door mounted seat belts, 50/50 split rear seats, remote fuel and hatch release, rear defogger, 165/70R13 tires
DX adds: 1.5L TBI 16 valve 92hp, 5spd manual or 4spd auto, power steering w/auto tranny, motorized front belts (4dr), rear wiper/washer (3dr), tilt wheel, cargo cover (3dr), interval wipers, 175/70R14 tires

Si adds: 1.6L PFI 16 valve 108hp, dual manual mirrors, power moonroof, clock, tach, sport seats, 185/60R14 tires

LX adds to DX 4dr: power mirrors, pw, pdl, cruise, clock, tach

EX adds: 1.6L PFI 108hp, upgraded interior trim, 175/65HR14 tires

2WD wagon: DX equip plus clock, tach

4WD wagon adds: 1.6L PFI 108hp, 5spd manual or 4spd auto, full-time 4WD



some links for anyone interested in swapping a 4th gen...


http://texas.clubsi.com/brandon/crx/frame2.htm
http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom.html
http://tjshondas.20m.com/b16ainstall.html
http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/mpfi.html
http://b16a.honda-perf.org/theswap.html
http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/b16a.html
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=46489

 

[Tom]

pulled from ef-honda.com

So you have an EF/ED. Chances are that it is slow as f**k, especially if you ended up with a DX, LX, STD or some other long-geared, gas-saving, dual point model. So this guide is here to help you decide how you want to make faster without the aid of forced induction (well, you can go that route too but its not covered). If you are a newbie read EVERYTHING here. That way you will spend less time asking questions on message boards. Also, I didn’t feel like reiterating everything in every specific motor section so read at least the first few before you scroll down to the motor you want to get.

B-series.
These are by far the most popular swaps. They are fairly easy for the average joe to do and are pretty fast right out of the box (errr…clip). But in doing a b-series swap you WILL need to do some things in order for this swap to work:
-Get some mounts. Hasports, Place Racing, HCP, and some others make them as well.
-You have to either find EF SiR shift linkage or you can shorten 90-93 integra shift linkage by 2-3/8” . I do the latter because DA linkage is easy to find and its cheap. I also always shorten it in the straightest portion possible. The 3rd option is to get some adjustable shift linkage From Hasport or Place Racing.
-You need (maybe not NEED) a tranny that has a Cable actuated clutch. This will be covered on a case by case basis in the motor portion of this guide.
-If you have a Dual-Point car you will NEED to convert it to Multi-Point. If you are going the VTEC route you will need to wire the VTEC stuff in all EFs no matter the trim level.
-MPFI wiring: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/4...wiring.htm-VTEC wiring; wires to add if using PR3/PW0:
o Pin A8 – VTEC solenoid.
o Pin B5 – VTEC oil pressure switch (plug with 2 wires, Black is ground)
o Pin B19 – Knock sensor.
o Pin C8 – Second oxygen sensor
-Get some 90-93 integra axles, JDM EF SiR axles (good luck finding them if they didn’t come with your swap) or get custom ones. You need to have a 90-93 teg intermediate shaft with the teg axles and an SiR int shaft with the SiR axles. If you get customs ones ask the manufacturer of the axles which intermediate shaft you should use.
-If using 90-93 axles, take out the dust rings on your knuckles. Also take off the dust rings on the axles. It sucks but you pretty much need the clearance for the axles. Try to stay out of the dirt.
-You need a 90-93 integra throttle cable (except if you are going JRSC, then you can use the stock one).
-You need to make a large dent in the frame rail right below the shock tower (right under the rectangular hole). This dent clears the alternator pulley. NOTE: if you’re putting a JRSC in this dent will NEED to be further forward and a lot deeper. Trust me. Experience talking. We pulled the motor a few times messing with this.
-Your stock exhaust probably wont bolt up (if it does you are lucky). If you are using a stock exhaust manifold on the b-series then you can use you stock D-series down pipe on the b-series manifold. But what you really should do is get rid of the stock manifold, buy a header, and get some 2.25” exhaust made at a muffler shop. Or you could buy an aftermarket cat-back exhaust and get it modified to fit. Either way you WILL want to get rid of that 1.5” crush bent stock crap and the stock header/downpipe.

ECU pin outs are here: http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/ECU_Pin_Outs.xls
I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but it really isn’t when you get down to it.

D-series.
Your car comes stock with a d-series engine. These bolt right in with out mount kits. You can use your stock shift linkage, axles, mounts, and even the tranny if you want (you’ll want to find an Si one).

H-series.
You are on your own. Few people have done it and some say it's not worth the effort, unless its going into an 88 CRX Hf (1819lbs stock) and even then it would be a huge pain. If you want an H-series buy an early low-model EG hatch. Your time will be better spent and the cars aren’t all that much heavier than a low model EF. If you are learning a lot by what you are reading right now this is NOT the swap for you.

On with the engines.

B-series VTEC motors:

Engine: 1988-1991 JDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/112lb-ft@7000rpm
Transmission: JDM S1, J1, Y1, A1 (cable)
OBD: 0
ECU: integra motor - PR3, civic motor - PW0. But the motor can be run with a PR4 and an RPM switch or a PS9 with DaveB’s wonderful one-wire VTEC chip (PM6’s can be converted too).

This is one of the easiest B-series swaps to do (and the most common). You can get full swaps for $1200-1600 depending on where you get it from and if you get any special stuff with it (like, for instance the LSD tranny which is a GREAT thing to get). If you can, try to get a motor from an EF SiR. That way you get the axles and shift linkage that were made for your car. It goes in like butta. But if you get an integra motor those are ok too. The shift linkage will need to be shortened and the axles will work. The car will need to be wired for only VTEC if you have an Si, Hf, or EX. If you have an LX, DX, STD or another dual point car I forgot then the car will have to be wired for multipoint as well.

For Multipoint wiring go here: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/4...x-zc-wiring.htm I printed that out and have used it every time I wired a DPFI car. Its invaluable. For VTEC wiring I just make my own harness from other harnesses I have laying around (or from the one that came with the swap). I run a plug from the ECU to the passenger side plug holder (there is already a spot for it!) and then run the other side of the plug to all the VTEC sensors.

With the motor, the tranny supplied is great. The only problem with b16 trannies is the 3rd gear grinds. They are tough to find without.

Stock B16 EF’s typically run high 14s to low 15s down the drag strip. Pretty damn good for a 1.6 liter.

Engine: 1992-up JDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.4:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 170hp@7800rpm/116lb-ft@7300
Transmission: Y21, S4C (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P30

This is the same motor as above but out of a 92-95 civic SIR (with higher compression), so the motor will be, of course, newer. These go for $1500-$2000. The problems are with the OBD1 and the hydraulic clutch trannies and because of these problems they really aren’t a great choice for our generation civics.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD1. Almost all of the wiring is different. So you can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 1 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box.

The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot of work involved. Heres a link: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. I’m pretty sure the Hasport one is out now so you can check out their site www.hasport.com.

The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1993-1995 USDM B16A2/3
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/112lb-ft@7000
Transmission: Y21 (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P30

This motor came out of the 94-95 Del Sol VTECs and is the same as above but with lower compression and weaker fuel/ignition maps in the ECU.

Engine: 1996-1997 & 1999-2000 USDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/112lb-ft@7000
Transmission: S4C (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: 99-00 – P2T

The 96-97 motors came out of DelSol VTECs, and the 99-00 motors came from Civic Si’s. These are going to be expensive if you can find one. The same stuff from the OBD1 motor applies.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 (or non-OBD if you are anal) and this motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can use the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box.

You’re not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. I’m pretty sure the Hasport one is out now so you can check out their site www.hasport.com .

The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

 

[Tom]

Engine: 1992-1993 USDM B17A1
Displacement: 1678cc
Compression Ratio: 9.7:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.68
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/117lb-ft@7000
Transmission: YS1 (short geared cable)
OBD: 1
ECU: P61 (pretty much a P30)

This motor came ONLY in 92-93 integra GS-R’s. It is essentially a stroked B16 with low compression. The B17 and B16 blocks are the same in all aspects except the block stamp. The difference is in the crank, rods, and pistons (lower comp). The b17 cams are also better than the 88-97 b16 cams. These are great motors but are a tad hard to find and the price varies a ton. If you can, try and get one with a stock GS-R tranny. It is one of the shortest geared ones out there and it’s a cable tranny(!). Unfortunately they only came in OBD1 so again you have some choices


The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD1. Almost all of the wiring is different. So you can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 1 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. If you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped for the displacement increased. This is of course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.

The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot of work involved. Here’s a link: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

Engine: 1994-1995 USDM B18C1
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 170hp@7600rpm/128lb-ft@6200
Transmission: Y80 (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P72

This motor is out of a 94-95 GS-R. It does not share too many components with the B16. It has, among other things, a different head (p72 as opposed to pr3), more aggressive cams, and a taller block. It also has a “Dual Runner” intake manifold. But like most the others this motor is OBD1 and hydro tranny equipped. Expect to pay around $3200 for the whole swap.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 (or non-OBD if you are anal) and this motor is OBD1. Almost all of the wiring is different. So you can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). If you go this route you will have to get rid of the dual runner intake manifold by buying a skunk2 manifold. The OBD0 VTEC ECUs don’t support the dual runners. Again, you can utilize the OBD 1 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. If you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped for the displacement increased. This is of course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.

The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot of work involved. Heres a link: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. I’m pretty sure the Hasport one is out now so you can check out their site www.hasport.com .

The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.


Engine: 1996-up USDM B18C1
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 170hp@7600rpm/128lb-ft@6200
Transmission: Y80 (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: P72

This is the OBD2 version of the above motor and it came in 96-01 GS-R’s. Other than the wiring it is the same as above. Expect to pay around $3000-$4000 for the whole swap.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). If you go this route you will have to get rid of the dual runner intake manifold by buying a skunk2 manifold. The OBD0 VTEC ECUs don’t support the dual runners. Again, you can utilize the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. If you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped for the displacement increased. This is of course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.

You’re not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount. Check out their site www.hasport.com.

The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1996-up JDM B18C
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 180hp@7600rpm/129lb-ft@6200
Transmission: Y80, S80 (hydraulic/optional LSD)
OBD: 2
ECU: P72

Same motor as the 96+ USDM motor but with higher compression and an optional LSD tranny. These motors are probably easier to find than the USDM motors because you can get them from one of the many engine importers. Expect to pay around $3200 for the whole swap. Other than that see the USDM 96+ B18C listing above.

Engine: 1997-up JDM B16B
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.8:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.77
Hp/Torque: 185hp@8200rpm/118lb-ft@7500
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: PCT

The B16B is a one of a kind Honda 1.6liter. It came from the JDM Civic Type R and shares a block with the Integra Type R B18C5 but has a shorter stoke and longer rods giving it that rev-happy 1.77 rod stroke ratio (highest of all the B-series motors). B16B’s also have more aggressive cams than even the B18C5/R motors. These motors are fairly rare and very rarely swapped into anything. This is probably because they go for around $3800 (whole swap). That’s $600 more than the JDM B18C1 which has only 5hp less and 10lb-ft more torque (at lower RPM, too).

The OBD problem:
This motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor (OBD0 B18a dist will work with modification), getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box.

You’re not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0.


The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount. Check out their site www.hasport.com .

The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

 

[Tom]

Engine: 1997-up USDM B18C5
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 195hp@8000rpm/130lb-ft@7500rpm
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: P73

Out of 97+ Integra Type Rs this motor is Honda’s king-dingaling 1.8 liter. It features larger cams/better valve train than the B18C1, factory polished PR3 Head (different than the B18C1’s P72), short/fat single runner intake manifold, 14lb flywheel (4 lbs lighter than all the other B-series motors), and a very short geared LSD tranny. These swaps typically run $4300-$4700 depending on where you get it.

The OBD problem:
This motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor (OBD0 B18a dist will work with modification), getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. These injectors are no bigger than normal b-series injectors.

You’re probably not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0. This motor does, however, run very well on its native OBD2.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. However, there are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount (get it; ITR trannies are the best stock b-series tranny). Check out their site www.hasport.com .

The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (ITR trannies go for a LOT) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one (get an LSD one at the very least).

Engine: 1995-up JDM B18C-R
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 200hp@8000rpm/135lb-ft@7500rpm
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: P73

This motor is the same as the USDM B18C5 but with higher compression. See above.

Engine: Poorman’s Type R
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: ?
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: ?
ECU: ?

This motor is a B18C1 block (94+ GSR) with a b16 head. Some people buy B16 swaps, drive them for a while then swap the B16 block out for a B18C1 one. This is a pretty good alternative to the B18C in EFs because you can get an LSD equipped B16 for $1400 then a B18c block for around $700-$1k and then you already have all the OBD0 stuff. Also, this motor gives you the ability to build/rebuild the block slowly while still driving your swapped car. Unfortunately B18C short blocks are hard to find and go quick when you do find them.

It is recommended to get some higher compression pistons and a better valve train/cams. Might as well, right?


Engine: LS/VTEC CR/VTEC
Displacement: 1834cc - 1973cc and up
Compression Ratio: ?
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54 (this stays the same)
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: ?
ECU: ?

In these you essentially take a non-vtec block like the b18a/b or the b20b/z and put a VTEC head on. The idea is to take the low end torque of the non-vtec motors and combine it with the high rpm power of the VTEC motors. People do it and succeed in making a lot of power but a lot of people do it and just end up with a blown motor. These motors range from “stock” LS/VTECs where someone slaps a stock head on a stock non-vtec block (this is dumb), to fully built monsters.

The main reason a lot of people don’t like them (me included) is because of the low rod/stroke ratios inherent in the non-vtec blocks. This low r/s ratio stresses the bottom end a bunch. If you’ll notice, Honda reduced the stroke from the B18A/B to the B18C. Now if the B18C is supposed to be a more performance oriented motor why didn’t they keep the displacement? For the better r/s ratio.

Another reason is that the non-vtec blocks don’t come with some of the features that the VTEC blocks. These include oil squirters, block girdles (on the B18C’s), and a very balanced bottom end.

The upside to this is that they have the potential to make a large amount of power. Its up to you. I am not going to say anymore because there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many threads on message boards all over the internet.

For info: Search on www.honda-tech.com or www.g2ic.com or one of the many others.
Links:
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthre...&threadid=69114
http://www.lsvtec.org/
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/6.html
http://www.indysol.com/resource/lsvtec.html

B-Series NON-VTEC motors:

Engine: 1990-1991 USDM B18A1
Displacement: 1834cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 130hp@6000rpm/121lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: S1, Y1, YS1, A1 (91 only) (cable)
OBD: 0
ECU: PR4

The B18A1 is out of 90-91 integras. This is one of the easiest swaps out there especially if you have an Si, Hf, or an EX. If you don’t, then you need to wire for multi-point. That’s it.

These motors are readily available as well. People often swap motors into their 90-91 integras so they have these pretty-much-complete swaps just laying around. You cant find them at engine importers but quite a few people sell them on www.g2ic.com and you could probably find a few at junkyards. I picked up a whole swap minus wiring harness and axles for $500. Cant beat that with a stick, eh? The downside to this is mileage on the motors and the fact that some people swap motors in their integras because the stock B18A is going out the door.

Performance is good. I had a B18a in my civic for a few months and it was a good motor. Great for daily driving and just enough torque for the tight autocrosses we occasionally have. I took it to the drag strip once and netted a 15.1 @ 91mph in two runs at 2240ft above sea level.

Engine: 1992-1993 USDM B18A1
Displacement: 1834cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 140hp@6300rpm/121lb-ft@5200rpm
Transmission: USDM YS1 (cable)
OBD: 1
ECU: OBD1 PR4

This B18A1 is out of 92-93 non-GSR integras. It is the same motor as the 90-91 B18A but with slightly larger cams and a (supposedly) better flowing intake manifold. These usually go for a few bucks more than the 90-91 motors.

This motor is OBD1 so you will have to either rewire your car or convert the motor to OBD0. I would suggest converting the motor. Its pretty cheap and very easy to do. You will need a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. That’s all. Cake.

Engine: 1994-Up USDM B18B1
Displacement: 1834cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 142hp@6300rpm/127lb-ft@5200rpm
Transmission: USDM S80 (hydraulic, long gears)
OBD: 1 or 2
ECU: P75

The B18B1 comes from 94+ non-GSR integras. This motor differs from the 92-93 motor in that it has a different head casting (P75 as opposed to PR4), ever so slightly larger cams, a (again, supposedly) better flowing intake manifold, and a little more aggressive ECU tuning. The motors are also obviously newer than any of the other non-VTEC B18s and are most likely in better shape.

For 94-95 this motor was OBD1 and for 96+ it was OBD2. Either way it is easy to convert them to OBD0 by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.

 

[Tom]

Engine: 1996-1998 USDM B20B
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 126hp@5400rpm/133lb-ft@4300rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.

These are from 97-98 CRV’s. Don’t be fooled by the low hp/tq rating, these motors came with the crappiest intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds known to man. If you do this swap you wont use either as the intake manifold wont fit in your car (its called the giraffe for a reason) and you will get a different header (even a stock integra manifold is WAY better). The USDM B20B is essentially a B18B1 with 84mm sleves/pistons. Everything else is the same: head, cams, crank, rods, etc. So you can think of it as a bored, low compression B18a/b.

For this motor you will want to get just a long block because the tranny, wiring, ECU, and even the intake and exhaust manifolds are not needed (some long blocks may come with them, though). Because of this it is wise to get a whole B18A swap and sell the B18. That way you wont have to search around for a whole bunch of parts that you didn’t anticipate needing. Trust me.

Intake manifold: You can use them from any non-vtec B18, a B20Z, or you can buy a skunk2 mani. I would suggest a B18B or skunk2 one. The skunk2 IM because it is supposedly the “mod to get” for the B20s, and the B18B IM because it is the best flowing of the B18 bunch. If you get a B18 or B20 IM then try and get it complete (fuel rail, injectors, TB and the like). I will cover the B20Z IM in the B20Z section.

Exhaust manifold: Get a header. If you want to be cheap you can use a stock integra one.

Tranny: Any B-series cable tranny will work. If you really want to use a hydro tranny or have one laying around get Hasport’s mount kit for hydro trannies.

Wiring: You will have to convert the motor to OBD0. You do this by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU and putting them in your car. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.


Engine: 1999-2000 USDM B20Z
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 146hp@6200rpm/133lb-ft@4500rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.

This is the high compression version of the USDM B20B. It came out of 99-00 CRV’s and is the king of all the non-vtec B-series motors. It comes with an intake cam that is .3mm larger in lift, a shorter/better intake manifold, and of course higher compression.

For this motor you will want to get just a long block because the tranny, wiring, ECU, and exhaust manifold is not needed. Because of this it is wise to get a whole B18A swap and sell the B18. That way you wont have to search around for a whole bunch of parts that you didn’t anticipate needing. Trust me.

Intake manifold: With this motor you can use the stock one. But you cannot use the chamber on top because it doesn’t clear the hood (I’ve tried it). Without that chamber there is a big gaping hole in the top of the IM and you, quite obviously, don’t want that. What I did was make a plug out of UHMW plastic on the lathe to the same size as the chamber inlet and then put the chamber inlet rubber seal on my plug. It works well and I haven’t had any vacuum leaks.

If you want to use the B20z throttle body (its 60mm as opposed to the 90-93 TB which is 58mm) then you either have to use the stock throttle cable bracket and mounting position (its straight up and down, it sucks). The better alternative (IMO) is to make a bracket that bolts onto the unused threaded holes that look to be in the same location as the throttle cable bracket on B18 IM’s. The holes aren’t in the same position and that is why you need to make a bracket. My bracket is out of 1/8” steel. It bolts to those holes and a stock B18 bracket bolts to my bracket. If you go this route you will need to use a throttle plate pulley (the throttle cable pulls on this to open the throttle) from a 90-93 integra.

If you want to use the stock CRV injectors you can. But I didn’t know the size of them and they were significantly physically smaller than my B18 injectors, so I used the B18 ones. These are taller than the B20 injectors. To make them fit I put one B18A (d16a6 ones will work too) fuel rail spacer under each of the 3 fuel rail studs on the B20 mani (between the stud and the IM, they do not fit between the rail and the stud). I had to put a drill through the all of the spacer’s holes so they would fit over the stud’s threads.

If you insist on not using the stock IM you can use one from any non-vtec B18 or you can buy a skunk2 mani. If you are going to use a B18 one and you don’t already have one, get the B18B IM because it is the best flowing of the b18 bunch. If you get a B18 IM try and get it complete (fuel rail, injectors, TB and the like).

Exhaust manifold: Get a header. If you want to be cheap you can use a stock integra one.

Tranny: Any B-series cable tranny will work. If you really want to use a hydro tranny or have one laying around get hasport’s mount kit for hydro trannies.

Wiring: You will have to convert the motor to OBD0. You do this by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU and putting them in your car. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.

A comparison between the B20B and Z with dyno charts exists and is at http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/b20dyno.html

I have this motor in my car now and it rules. It is happy going fast anywhere above 3k and putts around town with no problem at 1500-3k. It also kicks major ass at auto-x events. The power is great, even for the long auto-x events we often have on the road course (80+ mph straights). I went to the drag strip and pulled a 14.42@95 on my first of 3 runs at 2240ft on a 100deg F day. I must say that this motor is WAY more fun than the B18A ever was. Oh yeah, and I’m getting 34 miles to the gallon on a chipped ECU when I drive sane.

Engine: 1995 or so-2000 JDM B20B
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1, 9.2:1, 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: up to146hp@6200rpm/133lb-ft@4500rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.

These motors are a mixed bag. Who knows what you’re going to get when you buy your long block from an importer. There is no real concrete information available that accurately maps out which motor came from which years/cars. So I will attempt you tell you and at the very least tell you how to identify your motor (hopefully without taking the head off).

In general the 95 – 98 motors are the 8.8:1 compression motors and are exactly like the USDM B20B. They have the tall intake manifold and no knock sensor on the back of the block. If there is no knock sensor then you have an 8.8:1 compression motor. If you want to take off the head you will find the letters P3F on the top of the slightly dished piston.

Most of the 99-2000 motors are of the 9.6:1 compression variety and are just like the USDM B20Z. These motors have the short intake manifold with the chamber on top and a knock sensor. If you have a knock sensor on the back of the block, the motor is most likely has 9.6:1 compression. The pistons are almost flat and have a PHK designation.

I have read that the 9.2:1 motors exist but I have seen no proof. I don’t know what they are out of or what the identifying marks are. My guess is that if you get one it will be mistaken for a 9.6:1 motor. If you have any info on this please let me know.

If you got a motor with the tall manifold see the USDM B20B section. If yours came with a short manifold see the USDM B20Z section.

Expect to pay $700-$800 for a long block.

 

[Tom]

Engine: Up to 1991 USDM B20A/B21A
Displacement: 1958cc or 2056cc
Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 or 9.4:1
Rod/stroke ratio: lower than 1.54
Hp/Torque: 104hp@5800rpm/111lb-ft@4000rpm to140hp@5800rpm/135lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: Don’t know/care.

These came from 88-91 preludes (maybe others too). These engines are not worth swapping into your civic. Don’t be fooled by the price of them. They are regarded as the worst of all the Honda engines and aren’t even included in b20 discussions. They get their displacement increase by a very long stroke (95mm as opposed to the B18A’s already long 89mm). This means that they have to use short rods. That means a low rod/stroke ratio which puts a lot of stress on the bottom end components (cyl walls, rods, etc.).


D-Series: Some general D16 info here >> http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=385741

Engine: 1988 to 1991 USDM D16A6
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.1:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: 108hp@6000rpm/100lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: Si L3
OBD: 0
ECU: PM6 (PS9 if auto EX)

This engine came in 88-91 CRX Si’s, 89-91 Civic Si’s, and 90-91 Civic EX’s. So if you are swapping this motor then you probably have a Dual-Point motor in there now. This swap is the easiest of all motor swaps into the EF chassis. Pull old motor out, wire for multi-point and slide the new motor in. Easy. The only extra part you need is a 90-93 integra or CRX/Civic Si throttle cable.

These motors can be had for very cheap. A buddy of mine picked one up for $75 with 108K miles on it. We put it in an 88 four door DX and it ran high 15’s.

Engine: 1986 to 1989 USDM D16A1/3
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 or 9.5:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 118hp@6800rpm/103lb-ft@5700rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PG6

These motors are out of 86-89 integras. They don’t fit in the EF chassis without mounts and no one makes mounts for them. I have also read that the tranny doesn’t bolt up to any other D-Series motors. Also the DOHC head does not fit on any of the other SOHC blocks. So don’t get one of these for your EF.

Engine: Up to 1991 ZC
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 or 9.5:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 129hp@6800rpm/108lb-ft@5700rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PM7

These motors came from a whole bunch of different cars in Japan (3g civics/crxs, 4g civics/crxs, 5g civics, and 1 and 2g integras). They came in a few different variations: carbed & pgmfi, SOHC and DOHC. They also came in a few cars in Europe but the motor was called the D16A8/9 and came with a PM2 ECU. Here is a site for identifying the ZC: http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/zcfiles/wzc.htm If it is down here is the main part I wanted you to read:

“The engine code will either state zc if it is a Japanese model or d16a8 if it is European model.
The second gen dohc zc will have a black valve cover with the bolts on the sides, and the Honda h at the exhaust side of the cover. There is a oil to water cooler on the back of the block. Motor mounts are identical to an 88-91 civic or crx's.”

If you get the right one, these motors bolt in with no problems at all. The swap is just like the D16A6 swap. You need a 90-93 integra or CRX/Civic Si throttle cable, then you need to wire for multi-point. That’s all. These motors can be run with a variety of ECU’s including (but probably not limited to) the PG7, PM7, PM6, PM2 (I’ve never ever seen one, not even on the internet), and PR4 (OBD0). Expect to pay around $500 for a ZC long block (about the same as a 1g B16A long block, crazy eh?).

 

[Tom]

Engine: 1992 to 1995 USDM D16Z6
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 125hp@6600rpm/106lb-ft@5200rpm
Transmission: Something Hydraulic
OBD: 1
ECU: P28

The SOHC VTEC D16Z6 came from 92-95 civic Si’s and EX’s. This is a fairly common swap because Z6’s can be had for fairly cheap. I have seen them go for as little as $200 and as much as $500 (tranny may or may not be included, but you don’t need it anyway). The only problems are with the hydro tranny (if you get it) and the OBD1.

The hydro tranny isn’t of much use to us 4g swap folks because it is a large pain to make work. The best solution is to find an EF Si tranny and be done with it. Any D-series tranny will work, like say the ever so common DX tranny (wanna buy one? I have 3), but the Si tranny has a lower final drive (same gears) than the DX one. Shorter gears are your friend. Just stay away from the 4 speed at all costs.

As far as the OBD goes you have 2 options. You can make it easy on yourself and stay OBD0 or you can convert the car to OBD1. If you stay OBD0 its going to be a little ghetto and there is no way around it. Going OBD1 at least has the potential to not be ghetto but some people still make it ghetto. Either way, take your time.

For OBD0 you first off need a D16A6 distributor. No, you cant use your D15B2 dual-point one. The A6 dist fits on the head but you can only secure it with 2 of the 3 bolts. One lines right up and the other two don’t but fortunately one of those two is close enough to use. I suppose you could cut the mounting ears off and weld them on in the right location but that is a lot of work and I haven’t seen it done yet. Then you need a way to make VTEC work. There are a variety of ways to do this. MSD makes an RPM activated switch you can use (shift lights also contain one of these and I have seen people use them), you can get a VAFC, you can run a PR3 or PW0 ECU (have to add another o2 sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or you can find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best ways IMO). Here is a link to a Z6 swap writeup: http://www.geocities.com/chacofgs/swap.html

If you go for the gusto and decide to convert everything to OBD1 then you will need to get a P28 ECU and then do a bunch of wiring. Here is a link to a really good write-up on the Z6 swap and OBD1 conversion: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

Engine: 1996 to 2000 USDM D16Y8
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: 127hp@6600rpm/107lb-ft@5500rpm
Transmission: Something Hydraulic
OBD: 2
ECU: P2P

This motor comes out of 96-2000 civic EXs. The block is essentially the same as the a6 and z6 blocks, but the head is a lot different. It has been said that the z6 head flows better than the y8 head at high rpm. This is due to the port shapes and sizes. There have been many threads on many message boards debating which one is better. Here is a link to one: http://pub143.ezboard.com/fhondadse...tart=21&stop=34 . Also the y8 manifold has shorter, fatter runners and a larger plenum than any of the other d-series manifolds. It has been called the “ITR manifold for the D-series.”

If you are not going for all out power then the head difference doesn’t really matter. This motor has higher compression and a slightly larger cam than the Z6 and so even though the Z6 head is “better,” stock for stock they are about the same as far as moving your car. The Y8 head does have 1 advantage over the Z6 head for us EF OBD0 d00ds. The A6 distributor bolts right up with no modification so there is less ghettoness with this swap than with the z6. Other than the A6 dist you will need a way to activate VTEC which can be done a few different ways. MSD makes an RPM activated switch you can use (shift lights also contain one of these and I have seen people use them), you can get a VAFC, you can run a PR3 or PW0 ECU (have to add another o2 sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or you can find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best ways IMO).

If you want to go OBD1 follow the link in the Z6 section. I have read that there are a few OBD1 distributors that bolt onto the y8 head (like the CX one) so that shouldn’t really be a problem.

Then you need to get a D series cable tranny. The hydro tranny isn’t of much use to us EF swap folks because it is a pain to make work. The best solution is to find an EF Si tranny and be done with it. Any D-series tranny will work, like say the ever so common DX tranny (wanna buy one? I have 3), but the Si tranny has a lower final drive (same gears) than the DX one. Shorter gears are your friend. Just stay away from the 4 speed at all costs.

Engine: mini-me
Displacement: ~1493 - ~1590cc
Compression Ratio: ?
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52 or 1.59
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: probably 0
ECU: ?

This motor is the “LS/VTEC” for the D family. You take a D15 or D16 block and put a Z6 or Y8 head on there. There is, however, a whole lot less risk in building these than there is with the LS/VTECs because of the price and because most of the d16s (the ones you would use) come with essentially the same block (and therefore the same or even HIGHER rod/stroke ratio). If you use a d16 you will end up with a r/s ratio of 1.52 if you use the D15 block you end up with a r/s ratio of 1.59.

The usual, normal guy, good running mini-me consists of:
D16 or D15 block
Z6 head
Y8 intake manifold
B18A throttle body (2mm bigger than the Z6 and Y8 manis and 3mm larger than the A6 one)
PM6 and RPM switch (PS9 1 wire vtec is made for the D vtec swaps and is sooooooooooo much better than any rpm switch)

CR info (not calculated by me):
d16a6 block, d16z6 head: 10.4:1 (Head has 34.6cc combustion chamber volume)
d16a6 block, d16y8 head: 11.2:1 (Head has 32.8cc combustion chamber volume)
d15b2 block, d16z6 head: 10.6:1 (Head has 34.6cc combustion chamber volume)

Here are some mini-me links:
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
http://www.geocities.com/chipman_13/mini-me-parts.html http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/minime.html

Z6 vs Y8 head comparo:
http://pub143.ezboard.com/fhondadse...tart=21&stop=34

Engine: Up to 1991 ZC
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 or 9.5:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 129hp@6800rpm/108lb-ft@5700rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PM7

 

[Tom]

SI= Sports Injected, Si-R= Sports Injected Racing, DX= Deluxe, LX=Luxury i think.

EDM | TYPE | CHASSIS CODE | ENGINE CODE | POWER

Hatch 1.3(Luxe) EC8 D13B1/2 ~ 75hp
1.4 GL/GLX EC9 D14A1 ~ 90hp
1.5i GL/GLX ED6 D15B2 ~ 90hp
1.6i ED7 D16A6/Z2~ 110hp
1.6i-16/GT - D16A9 ~ 130hp
1.6i- VT EE9 B16A1 ~ 150hp

Sedan 1.3(Luxe) ED5 D13B1/2 ~75hp
1.4 GL/GLX ED2 D14A1 ~90hp
1.5i GL/GLX ED3 D15B2 ~90hp
1.6i ED4 D16A6/Z2 ~110hp
1.6i 4WD EE5 D16A6/Z2 ~110hp

CRX 1.4 16V EE6 D14A1 ~90hp
1.6i-16 ED9 D16A9/Z5 ~130hp(A9) ~124hp(Z5)
1.6i-VT EE8 B16A1 ~150hp

JDM | TYPE | CHASSIS CODE | ENGINE CODE | POWER

Hatch 23L/U E-EF1 D13B ~81hp
25R/X/XT E-EF2 D15B ~90hp
Si E-EF3 ZC ~128hp
SiR/SiRII E-EF9 B16A ~158hp

Sedan 33U E-EF1 D13B ~81hp
35U E-EF2 D15B ~90hp
35M/X/XT E-EF2 D15B ~99hp
36i Limited E-EF3 ZC ~118hp
Si E-EF3 ZC ~128hp

CRX 1.5X E-EF6 D15B ~104hp
Si E-EF7 ZC ~128hp
SiR E-EF8 B16A ~158hp
*
USDM | TYPE | CHASSIS CODE | ENGINE CODE | POWER

Hatch STD ED6 D15B1 ~70hp
DX ED6 D15B2 ~92hp
Si ED7 D16A6 ~108hp

Sedan DX ED3 D15B2 ~92hp
LX ED3 D15B2 ~92hp
EX ED4 D16A6 ~108hp

CRX HF ED8 D15B6 ~62hp
DX ED8 D15B2 ~92hp
Si ED9 D16A6 ~108hp

 

[Tom]

1988 to 1991 CIVIC/CRX Swap Options

JDM 1.6 DOHC ZC Non Vtec
1.6L (non-VTEC) DOHC motors that bolt right in. They are from '88-91 Japanese Civic and CRX Si.

The ZC motor externally looks almost the same as the 1G Integra but with 4G Civic mounting brackets on it. However, this motor has slightly higher compression (9.5:1), a larger intake manifold and slighlty higher hp cams. This all adds up to stock power of 130ps (about 129-130hp).


Transmissions Options.
The Si transmission is the best choice available. Both the Si and DX transmission bolts right up and keeps the install simple. The DX transmission will sacrifice performance for better fuel mileage and lower freeway rpms. The ZC tranmission has a close ratio 1-5th gear, but a long final drive, making the best transmission still the US Si. For the ultimate acceleration make a Si/ZC hybrid transmission, by taking the Si final drive and put it in the ZC transmission. Or you can do it the other way around, ZC 1-5 in a Si transmission case.


ECU Options
For ECUs you can use a Si ECU PM6 (7000 rpm fuel cutoff), 88-89 Integra ECU PG6 (7500 rpm fuel cutoff) or the JDM ZC ecu PM7(7500 rpm), but the DX/STD does not work.

Other Comments
If you have DPFI, you will have to convert to MPFI, as fo rthe wiring, simply do the MPFI conversion, 2 wires need to be ran to the engine bay for the Camshaft position sensor(on the end of teh EX. cam).


JDM Si-R B16A
B16A1 (160hp DOHC VTEC) from the JDM 90-91 Civic/CRX Si-R

The B16A1 is almost identical to the 160hp U.S. Del Sol VTEC (B16A2). The Del Sol motor does NOT bolt in either.

Transmissions Options.
Since the D-series transmissions are not compatible with the B-series motors, you should purchase the Y1 transmission along with the motor.
Some of the Y1s have the highly desirable factory LSD. LSD should be imprinted on the transmission casing, so search carefully. If a Y1 is not available, a 90-93 Integra LS transmission will work, but the gear ratios are not designed for the high rpm VTEC engine and will hurt acceleration.

ECU Options
Use a stock Si-R ecu, which requires some wiring changes. Use the stock Si ecu, reprogrammed for a higher red limit and the use a external rpm switch for VTEC activation. Or use a Del Sol VTEC engine harness and rewire the engine compartment and dash to use the Del Sol VTEC ecu.



1.8 LS Integra DOHC Non Vtec
The non-VTEC Integra engines fit, BUT this is not a bolt in swap. 90-91 are OBD0, so you won't have to convert to anything, 92-93 are OBD1, BUT!! simply change the Distributor and ECU to a OBD0 LS integra ECU and you have 10 more HP and a OBD0 motor(90-91B18a's have 130~hp, 92-93 has 140~hp)
you can use the LS from the 94+ integras, but will ahve to be converted to OBD0.

Transmissions Options.
Use 88-89 Integra axles and you will have to modify the shift linkage. All these things are necessary to insure proper alignment of the axles so that the car will drive straight and shift correctly.
The transmission from the 94+ Integra uses mounts that are significantly different than those in the Civic and uses a hydraulic clutch, so the swap gets very complicated and ugly. However, the 90-93 Integra transmission will bolt to the 94+ motors and has a cable clutch like the 4G civics.



B18C VTEC, US and JDM B18CSpecR, JDM B16B
These VTEC motors are taller than the other B-series motors. The extra height requires creativity and a few more compromises. The rails under the hood can be trimmed to reduce interfered with the motor. The motor can be shimmed downward to clear the hood. However, placing the motor lower puts it close to the radius rods and the engine will probably bang into them




Prelude 2.2 and 2.3
The 2.2L and 2.3L Prelude motors can be stuffed in the 4G engine bay with cutting, pounding, welding, and basic indifference to structural safety.

The prelude motor is significantly heavier than the stock 4G motors, and the additional front weight bias will spell u-n-d-e-r-s-t-e-e-r. If you love the way your car handles now, think twice about the big 'lude swap. If you do, you must get bigger front brakes, or at least aggressive pads.

 

[Tom]

Here some pics showing honda's locations of a few info labels, though they are missing the location of the VIN plate location on the dash, as seen through the window.

 

[Steven.]

LOL, on the sedna and hatch they got the engine and trans number location mixed up. i think looks like it.

 

[Tom]

LOL, on the sedna and hatch they got the engine and trans number location mixed up. i think looks like it.

yeah i know, when i first saw it i was like WTF, even honda can't get their s**t right, lol.

 

[Chris.]

4WD wagon adds: 1.6L PFI 108hp, 5spd manual or 4spd auto, full-time 4WD

ok yester day it said it had a 6 spd? someone fixed it or was it actually a six speed?

 

[Tom]

not a damn clue.

 

[Steven.]

i fixed it, becouse they come in 5 speed.

 

[sputnik]

What is a base 3 door model.

Mine is a LX 3 door hatch
Is that a base model??