RonJ
Banned
The conversion is more simple than you are making it. Move wires of the same color in first diagram below to their new corresponding pin positions in the second diagram below:
6th Gen Power Folding Mirrors Wiring
- Thread starter Wreckless Hype
- Start date
RonJ
Banned
Methinks ye may have missed my deeper meaning.
Correct
Common has slightly different functions in the two circuits. In the new circuit, common is used for UP and Down. It can provide either power or ground depending on the switch position. Is this your question?
Clearly. I guess I'm just trying to understand since previous to this whole thing, I've never really read this language or understood it. I bet you didn't know that.
The way a bird flies overhead I suppose..
Ok. I get it a little bit better now. I was confused and thought the common should act the same as the PM circuit, but that's not the case. The new circuit is clearly a little more intricate, but at this point is getting a little easier to comprehend.
Went outside to play with the switch. Plugged in 7 wires to mock up the correct connection minus the power folding option. Mostly this was just to get an idea of how the mirrors are wired. Guessing based off logic worked well. The yellow white wire was kind of all by itself, blue white and blue black likely motion adjustment wires, same with yellow black and yellow red on the other side. Green yellow and blue red, alternated on either sides seem to be the folding wires.
Wired pin 4 to the yellow white, pin 7 to blue black, and pin 9 to blue white, positive to pin 1, grounded pin 2. Mirror adjustment worked for left and up, obviously down and right are malfunctioning, this confirmed it.
Wired pin 4 to yellow white on the other side, pin 8 to yellow black, pin 10 to yellow red, power leads and success again for adjustment of glass (except our broken directions.)
For the fun of it (and to make sure both motors are good), wired up the PFM switch with pins 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 only for folding motion. Since the mirrors are already folded in, I pushed the switch in and on the left side I wired my common, blue red to pin 5 and green yellow to pin 6, power leads on and then disengaged the switch. The mirror folded out properly. Engaged and disengaged the switch, fold in and fold out. Awesome. Since the 2 wires are alternated on the mirror connectors to keep the mirrors moving in the proper motion, I connected them up the same way and got successful motion again. Switch in, mirrors fold in and hold, switch out, mirrors out. Awesome.
So I have the mirror connector pin outs, confirmed bad switch (super confirmed, super dead), and properly functioning folding motors.
Now I just need to wait for a working switch and hope it's all the same circuitry.
Wired pin 4 to the yellow white, pin 7 to blue black, and pin 9 to blue white, positive to pin 1, grounded pin 2. Mirror adjustment worked for left and up, obviously down and right are malfunctioning, this confirmed it.
Wired pin 4 to yellow white on the other side, pin 8 to yellow black, pin 10 to yellow red, power leads and success again for adjustment of glass (except our broken directions.)
For the fun of it (and to make sure both motors are good), wired up the PFM switch with pins 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 only for folding motion. Since the mirrors are already folded in, I pushed the switch in and on the left side I wired my common, blue red to pin 5 and green yellow to pin 6, power leads on and then disengaged the switch. The mirror folded out properly. Engaged and disengaged the switch, fold in and fold out. Awesome. Since the 2 wires are alternated on the mirror connectors to keep the mirrors moving in the proper motion, I connected them up the same way and got successful motion again. Switch in, mirrors fold in and hold, switch out, mirrors out. Awesome.
So I have the mirror connector pin outs, confirmed bad switch (super confirmed, super dead), and properly functioning folding motors.
Now I just need to wait for a working switch and hope it's all the same circuitry.
New switch came. No idea where this guy is getting them from, they don't match s**t, it's exactly the same as the last one. Tested continuity, all good across the board. Excellent!
So I decided to run two wires by running one wire. Close hangar bent over the wire so it wouldn't fall out.
And a s**t ton of electrical tape to make it a little easier on the boot.
Pulled off both sides of the boot, or whatever the hell you want to call it. (Did this without going under the fender, or taking the fender off. Sucked!)
But having side markers helped!
Pushed it into the side of the dash with everything else, and viola!
Now the fun part.
No extra pins, but there are tons of empty spots for pins to go...
... Or drill bits. Used one the same size as the wire I'm pushing through.
Picked two pins diagonal from each other and made 2 holes (Careful not to hit the wires already there!)
Just checked to make sure... Yep!
Pushed through the back side of the male connector.
Pushed into the pin side of the female connector.
Connected the molex clips together, put green retaining clip around outside and attached rubber boot. Ran wires inside of the door, reattached white wire loop best I could.
Now the mirror pinouts. Left OEM, Right PFM
Repinned, added folding wires from PFM pigtail in correct locations on OEM harness
Through the sleeve, tidy up
Continuity test, tape them off. Used red tape on Blue/Red wire (just to make it easier later on).
Solder, taped, and zip tied neatly.
OEM power mirror switch connector
Repinned, added Red / Black for Blue / Red (Just to keep red similar), and Green / Yellow for Green / Yellow.
So I decided to run two wires by running one wire. Close hangar bent over the wire so it wouldn't fall out.
And a s**t ton of electrical tape to make it a little easier on the boot.
Pulled off both sides of the boot, or whatever the hell you want to call it. (Did this without going under the fender, or taking the fender off. Sucked!)
But having side markers helped!
Pushed it into the side of the dash with everything else, and viola!
Now the fun part.
No extra pins, but there are tons of empty spots for pins to go...
... Or drill bits. Used one the same size as the wire I'm pushing through.
Picked two pins diagonal from each other and made 2 holes (Careful not to hit the wires already there!)
Just checked to make sure... Yep!
Pushed through the back side of the male connector.
Pushed into the pin side of the female connector.
Connected the molex clips together, put green retaining clip around outside and attached rubber boot. Ran wires inside of the door, reattached white wire loop best I could.
Now the mirror pinouts. Left OEM, Right PFM
Repinned, added folding wires from PFM pigtail in correct locations on OEM harness
Through the sleeve, tidy up
Continuity test, tape them off. Used red tape on Blue/Red wire (just to make it easier later on).
Solder, taped, and zip tied neatly.
OEM power mirror switch connector
Repinned, added Red / Black for Blue / Red (Just to keep red similar), and Green / Yellow for Green / Yellow.
Pulled everything out
So much easier to pull the molex apart before running the wire through the boot
Harder to grab wire though because of the AC / Heating system
Got it
In business
Half of the molex completely unused
Drilled and wired. Connect it back up, reattached green clip and boot to clip.
Some extra wires on my OEM mirror
Taped off black wire and orange wire, repinned connector and added power folding wires, soldered and tucked nicely
Connect power folding wires at back of the switch
Soldered under the dash and tucked
Reassemble the doors and put everything back together. Check that all of my door controls still work. So it's time... Play with the switch aaaannnnnnd:
[YOUTUBE="Power Foilding Mirrors"]TTV0RjvbCsc[/YOUTUBE]
So much easier to pull the molex apart before running the wire through the boot
Harder to grab wire though because of the AC / Heating system
Got it
In business
Half of the molex completely unused
Drilled and wired. Connect it back up, reattached green clip and boot to clip.
Some extra wires on my OEM mirror
Taped off black wire and orange wire, repinned connector and added power folding wires, soldered and tucked nicely
Connect power folding wires at back of the switch
Soldered under the dash and tucked
Reassemble the doors and put everything back together. Check that all of my door controls still work. So it's time... Play with the switch aaaannnnnnd:
[YOUTUBE="Power Foilding Mirrors"]TTV0RjvbCsc[/YOUTUBE]
Ron, thanks tons for the help with this. I'd likely still be flopping like a fish out of water on this. It for some reason took a lot for me to go through the wiring on my rear fog and get that working properly with a relay (not proper, but whatever...) Big help 
:
Adding info for anyone who may end up stumbling on this, as I stumbled on so many useless threads, I should point out that I have a set of EK4 mirrors, the switch is still unknown where it came from. s**t, switch could have come from an Isuzu Aska for all we know.
So the mirrors are RHD, essentially my visibility out of my driver side mirror is spectacular if I only want to look at my left arm while I drive. It's also very useful in checking if your gas cap is open. Aside from that, these suck.
I'll first state I had 2 and a half reasons for converting to these mirrors. 1, I like the power folding option, who doesn't? 2, I wanted to install the Spoon Hydro-Blue glass and they do not fit on OEM USDM mirrors. My half reason is the OEM USDM mirrors look stupid as hell.
So 2 parts, base that mounts to the car, and the actually mirror that folds in to the car. The base that they sit on mostly determines the RHD vs LHD, glass also plays a factor. The arm on the base that the 3 screws from the mirror part angle back towards the rear of the car MORE on the driver's side (US Driver's side) so even if you adjust your mirror all the way out, you still cannot see s**t. The LHD mirrors angle further out towards the front on the driver's side to give you a better viewing angle from the driver's seat.
I read in a few places that the Spoon wide glass will fix this issue but I'm a little hesitant. Also, I'd rather just have it setup properly. Since I got the mirrors cheap as hell, the Spoon glass came from someone that bought and did not use them, so I'm doing pretty well so far, might as well go the full 9 and spend a bit to get the project done right.
Sourced a pair of LHD unpainted manual folding mirrors for a decent price. Really all I want here is the base. The motors for the folding and mirror adjusting sits inside the mirror housing, the arm / base is just to mount to the car and mount the mirror housing to it. The 3 bolt platform in the bottom of the mirror housing is pretty much the pivot point for the folding motor, the bolts are the mount point so LDH or RHD base literally means nothing for this motion:
(Prelude power folding mirrors, same idea)
I'll take the mirrors off the car, pull both sets apart - depin connectors, remove mirror housing from base, pull wires through, paint the unpainted LHD base and put PFM housing on LHD base, repin connector, reassemble, and all should be right with the world. I SHOULD end up with properly angled mirrors for left hand driving, the Spoon glass will give a wider view and reduce glare from lights and the weather bullshit, yadda yadda.
Mirrors on their way, Spoon glass on the way. Will post updates.
:Adding info for anyone who may end up stumbling on this, as I stumbled on so many useless threads, I should point out that I have a set of EK4 mirrors, the switch is still unknown where it came from. s**t, switch could have come from an Isuzu Aska for all we know.
So the mirrors are RHD, essentially my visibility out of my driver side mirror is spectacular if I only want to look at my left arm while I drive. It's also very useful in checking if your gas cap is open. Aside from that, these suck.
I'll first state I had 2 and a half reasons for converting to these mirrors. 1, I like the power folding option, who doesn't? 2, I wanted to install the Spoon Hydro-Blue glass and they do not fit on OEM USDM mirrors. My half reason is the OEM USDM mirrors look stupid as hell.
So 2 parts, base that mounts to the car, and the actually mirror that folds in to the car. The base that they sit on mostly determines the RHD vs LHD, glass also plays a factor. The arm on the base that the 3 screws from the mirror part angle back towards the rear of the car MORE on the driver's side (US Driver's side) so even if you adjust your mirror all the way out, you still cannot see s**t. The LHD mirrors angle further out towards the front on the driver's side to give you a better viewing angle from the driver's seat.
I read in a few places that the Spoon wide glass will fix this issue but I'm a little hesitant. Also, I'd rather just have it setup properly. Since I got the mirrors cheap as hell, the Spoon glass came from someone that bought and did not use them, so I'm doing pretty well so far, might as well go the full 9 and spend a bit to get the project done right.
Sourced a pair of LHD unpainted manual folding mirrors for a decent price. Really all I want here is the base. The motors for the folding and mirror adjusting sits inside the mirror housing, the arm / base is just to mount to the car and mount the mirror housing to it. The 3 bolt platform in the bottom of the mirror housing is pretty much the pivot point for the folding motor, the bolts are the mount point so LDH or RHD base literally means nothing for this motion:
(Prelude power folding mirrors, same idea)
I'll take the mirrors off the car, pull both sets apart - depin connectors, remove mirror housing from base, pull wires through, paint the unpainted LHD base and put PFM housing on LHD base, repin connector, reassemble, and all should be right with the world. I SHOULD end up with properly angled mirrors for left hand driving, the Spoon glass will give a wider view and reduce glare from lights and the weather bullshit, yadda yadda.
Mirrors on their way, Spoon glass on the way. Will post updates.
RonJ
Banned
Yep.
Got the hard work done though. Swapping out the bases should be easy and fix the issue.Also, to settle the debate, "Will Spoon wide view side mirrors help me see out of my RHD mirrors in a LHD car?" No, no they will not. They make it a LITTLE bit wider, I can almost see a car behind me, but you're not safely changing lanes with these.
Aside from the wiring fun, which was actually fun (not sarcasm), this project sucks 
Guy sent me manual folding (fine) manual adjusting mirrors (wtf?!)
So I need to try and get them completely apart without breaking anything and see if I can make the bases work since obviously there is no wiring socket. I guess this will just make the end result all that much better. Or some s**t, however the saying goes. Or it won't work and I'm sending them back.
Also let it be known that the black paint on the SiR is different than the black on the 2000 Civic EX haha. Would also be a good time to tear these down to swap innards and paint everything going on the car. Guess I can slap the OEM mirrors back on and leave them unplugged, just manually adjust them to my sights (if needed) till I can swap the PFM back on and have them 100%.
Should have just done block off plates with APR GT3s
Guy sent me manual folding (fine) manual adjusting mirrors (wtf?!)
So I need to try and get them completely apart without breaking anything and see if I can make the bases work since obviously there is no wiring socket. I guess this will just make the end result all that much better. Or some s**t, however the saying goes. Or it won't work and I'm sending them back.
Also let it be known that the black paint on the SiR is different than the black on the 2000 Civic EX haha. Would also be a good time to tear these down to swap innards and paint everything going on the car. Guess I can slap the OEM mirrors back on and leave them unplugged, just manually adjust them to my sights (if needed) till I can swap the PFM back on and have them 100%.
Should have just done block off plates with APR GT3s
Let's do this
Aaaand never fails. Along the base, didn't crack through to the back though.
This comes off easily, don't wanna tear it
Pay dirt
4th screw
Manual adjust mechanism
Out. White cup just falls out. (Notice Left Hand - Right side "LH-R")
Left over
Spray paint just practically washed off...
PFM time
Have to depin the connector, won't slide through the mount
Easy to use manual adjusting rubber seals for power adjusting. Good to know, got spares
Connector pops right out with two screws
Left with the same frame! (RH-L)
Mirrors
Bases (Black is RHD, silver is LHD)
PFM on the LHD base
Epoxied the crack in the base. Sanded them all down and painted the mirrors. Need to finish painting the base and get them mounted. So far, so good.
Aaaand never fails. Along the base, didn't crack through to the back though.
This comes off easily, don't wanna tear it
Pay dirt
4th screw
Manual adjust mechanism
Out. White cup just falls out. (Notice Left Hand - Right side "LH-R")
Left over
Spray paint just practically washed off...
PFM time
Have to depin the connector, won't slide through the mount
Easy to use manual adjusting rubber seals for power adjusting. Good to know, got spares
Connector pops right out with two screws
Left with the same frame! (RH-L)
Mirrors
Bases (Black is RHD, silver is LHD)
PFM on the LHD base
Epoxied the crack in the base. Sanded them all down and painted the mirrors. Need to finish painting the base and get them mounted. So far, so good.