92 VX h/b -stalls while driving-HAS dash lights

[RonJ]

So now i have to wait until it WON"T start again, to do the #1 to #7 hotwire test??

Skip this^ test for now.

First get the answer to the CEL, and also check for spark again, all when the engine won't start.

 

[wehrd1]

Skip this^ test for now.

First get the answer to the CEL, and also check for spark again, all when the engine won't start.

i will continue to test the start or non-start of this car, every time I walk by it. Each time i will watch the CEL in the II position before cranking to start.

I know when i hear the pump prime, it's gonna start.

Each time I test it, I will watch the CEL and listen for the pump. If it doesn't prime, and subsequently cranks but doesn't start, i will report back here what the CEL light does or doesn't do when that occurs. And also test the spark at that time

Thanks.

 

[RonJ]

i will continue to test the start or non-start of this car, every time I walk by it. Each time i will watch the CEL in the II position before cranking to start.

I know when i hear the pump prime, it's gonna start.

Each time I test it, I will watch the CEL and listen for the pump. If it doesn't prime, and subsequently cranks but doesn't start, i will report back here what the CEL light does or doesn't do when that occurs. And also test the spark at that time

Thanks.

 

[wehrd1]

after three successful starts...

FINALLY...the 4th time...

When I turned the key to II the CEL does NOT light - it flickered, at most, and then immediately goes out - no pump prime, no start

all 4 plugs have white spark.

I tried to find a $4 digital multimeter at harbor freight...there was no such thing. their cheapest was $40. We do have one of those light up circuit testers that look like an ice pick with a clear handle and 2 little alligator clips on it. will that work for any future testing?

 

[RonJ]

Here is the multimeter.

When you checked for spark, were you unable to start the engine before and after the test? Does the engine now start?

The flickering CEL hints to an ECU problem, but more tests (with multimeter) should be done.

 

[wehrd1]

thank you for the item # - the HF we were at the other day didn't have any one other than the cashiers in the store, and they were too busy to assist. i will have someone who is near one everyday pick one up for me. the nearest one to me is 65 miles away.

I went out to retest for spark, intending to answer your questions re: the reactions of the spark/non-spark, and the dayum car starts everytime now.

I will continue to go out throughout the day and try to start and as soon as it doesn't start again, we'll note each time i attempt to start when testing for spark., whether it does or doesn't after each wire pull. I know last week when we had it in the garage, and tested for spark, each time he pulled a wire and put in the new plug and put it on the engine, and i cranked, it would not start, but it had spark on all four wires.. but it wouldn't start with one of the plugs out of engine and sparking on the metal, right? But when all spark testing at that time was done, and it all put back together, it started.

Can you detail what I'm to test using the mutli-meter the next time it doesn't start, and i'll be sure to have someone here that knows electronics, but i'll state it uncategorically, i know NOTHING about electricity.

Thank you for being so patient with me and walking me thru this. i really love this car, and really want it to be dependable again

 

[wehrd1]

it's started every time i tried this afternoon.

other than the ECU...just asking....and thinking out loud here...

could it be the crankshaft positioning sensor, or the cam sensor, are they the same thing? i'm just getting frustrated, but will stick with it, and find out the root cause, and get this sucker back on the road!

in the meantime, we'll get a mutlimeter bought.

 

[wehrd1]

an another thought - this is a VX...could they have used the wrong distributor???

there seems to be an extra mounting flange 'left over'. Is that right? does it matter?

i'll leave you alone now, until i have a non-starting car, and a multi-meter in hand

or if you think you can give me some initial tests to try when i have the MM, hopefully tomorrow, so we can knock some out IF it doesn't start..or links to step-by-step instructions and what settings and readings to register...

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[wehrd1]

it's consistently not starting now - we have a digital multi-meter now.

exactly where/what do we test to start our testing. pictures are VERY helpful and much appreciated

I only was able to test the fuel pump because you provided a picture of which hole was #5 & #7, because i couldn't tell the wire colors apart in and among all those wires.

I'll restate, I know nothing about electricity or multi-meters....sorry. Please be patient with someone who wants to learn

we can do several tests in a row and report back tomorrow mid morning (CST) unless we need to do one at a time and report back before moving on to the next one.

Thanks!

 

[RonJ]

I can walk you through any electrical tests.

However, currently with the engine not starting, does the fuel pump fail to prime and does the CEL stay on steady when the key is turned to ON(II)?

Look for the code on the distributor and post it. That way we can figure out whether it is correct for the engine.

 

[wehrd1]

I can walk you through any electrical tests.

However, currently with the engine not starting, does the fuel pump fail to prime and does the CEL stay on steady when the key is turned to ON(II).

fuel pump does not prime - the CEL barely flickers - it's doing the same thing it did occasionally, but more consistently now. I haven't tried to start it until tonight, and all 3 times i turned key to II, no CEL, no pump prime, and when i turn key on all the way, it cranks strong, but doesn't start

 

[RonJ]

Does the oil pressure light turn on and stay on when the key is turned to ON(II)? Do any cluster warning lights turn on?

 

[wehrd1]

fuel pump does not prime - the CEL barely flickers - it's doing the same thing it did occasionally, but more consistently now. I haven't tried to start it until tonight, and all 3 times i turned key to II, no CEL, no pump prime, and when i turn key on all the way, it cranks strong, but doesn't start

OK...i just went out to the garage - key position II - the relay clicks - the CEL DOES LIGHT - no pump prime - relay clicks - NO START

I was jumping the gun on my answer above - i apparently was turning the key all the way ON and getting that reaction.

i'll answer your other question in a quote to it

 

[wehrd1]

Does the oil pressure light turn on and stay on when the key is turned to ON(II)? Do any cluster warning lights turn on?

they ALL light as expected.


then when key turned all the way - cranks strong, but won't turn over.

 

[RonJ]

OK...i just went out to the garage - key position II - the relay clicks - the CEL DOES LIGHT - no pump prime - relay clicks - NO START

Does the CEL remain on steady or turn off after 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON(II)?

 

[wehrd1]

OK...i just went out to the garage - key position II - the relay clicks - the CEL DOES LIGHT - no pump prime - relay clicks - NO START

I was jumping the gun on my answer above - i apparently was turning the key all the way ON and getting that reaction.

i'll answer your other question in a quote to it[/QUOTE

but earlier it wasn't doing that much - and still not starting. that's what is so frustrating! one time nothing works, then the next time it does.

this is the first time the click, light, NO prime, click and it won't start

do i need to do the jump to #5 & #7 again?

 

[wehrd1]

Does the CEL remain on steady or turn off after 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON(II)?

that i DO know....it turns off when the relay clicks a 2nd time...2 seconds

TONIGHT - just now -

but earlier, it WASN'T...

i used to could tell when it WAS going to start, and when it wasn't going to start when i turned the key all the way on, by the way the lights acted at II.
if it clicks, CEL steady, could hear pump prime, click - i knew it was going to start
if it clicks, CEL flickered, no prime, click - i knew it wasn't going to start

Tonight:
click, CEL steady, NO prime, click - no start

this is the first time (since i thought my pump and or my relay was bad, and you told me to jump fro #5 - #7 to test pump prime, and it did) that the CEL has lit at II, and then when cranked it wouldnt start.

 

[wehrd1]

i don't think my wi-fi reaches my garage - it's a big garage in the back yard...not attached to the house.

 

[RonJ]

that i DO know....it turns off when the relay clicks a 2nd time...2 seconds

And the engine doesn't start when this^ happens?



I need this complete set of answers each time you do the test:

1) Turn key to ON(II).

2) Watch CEL for whether it turns on, stays on steady, or turns off and...

3) Listen for whether the fuel pump primes.

4) Move key to ON(III) to see whether engine starts.

Do the test several times.

 

[wehrd1]

And the engine doesn't start when this^ happens?

^^correct - it doesn't start

i just did all these steps 3 times and the answer to all 3 attempts are the same...tonight. This is the same thing it was doing when i thought i had a bad relay, or a dead fuel pump.

If i do this tomorrow, it could react differently.

I need this complete set of answers each time you do the test:

1) Turn key to ON(II).

2) Watch CEL for whether it turns on, stays on steady, or turns off and...
turns on, for 2 seconds, then turns off when the 2nd click of relay - all 3 times


3) Listen for whether the fuel pump primes.
did not prime all 3 times

4) Move key to ON(III) to see whether engine starts.

did not start all 3 times

I'd be happy to jump to see if the fuel pump primes again - i'm in the garage, and my wi-fi does reach - and i have the knee kick plate off already

Do the test several times.